Is this suspension guide correct ????

http://www.tootechracing.com/Static%20Sag%20Suspension%20Tip.htm

My race sag is 4"

My static sag is 2.5" ..

This guide says:

The Static Sag is the difference between the First and Second measurement eg.

FIRST 24”

-- SECOND -- 23”

= STATIC SAG 1”

3/4" to 1 1/4 inches indicates the rear spring is correct.

If the static sag is less than 1/2 inch – the spring is too definitely soft.

If the static sag is greater than 1 3/4 inch – the spring is too definitely stiff.

Ideally the static sag will be between 3/4 and 1 1/2 inches.

Surely if my bike is sagging more than 1", the spring must be too soft and NOT too hard ??????

I'm confused.

Think of it this way...

You reduce sag by increasing preload and vice-versa.

So.. If you add preload to your spring, to bring the Static to the desired 1", you will also reduce your Race sag (which is where it should be)..

So you need a softer spring that will give you more race sag at 1" static...

They just state it the opposite way, i.e. set your race sag and if your static is more than... and so on

Think of it this way...

You reduce sag by increasing preload and vice-versa.

So.. If you add preload to your spring, to bring the Static to the desired 1", you will also reduce your Race sag (which is where it should be)..

So you need a softer spring that will give you more race sag at 1" static...

They just state it the opposite way, i.e. set your race sag and if your static is more than... and so on

Ok, that makes more sense.. I'm just shocked that I would need a softer spring. It's got the stock spring on and I weigh 85kg in my undies !

I thought the spring would be too soft, not vice versa ! :ride:

Don't want to insult you, but are you sure you're measuring correctly?

Don't want to insult you, but are you sure you're measuring correctly?

It's pretty hard not to !!

Measure the distance from the rear axel to my rear rack.

70cm on the workstand

66cm under the bikes own weight

60cm with my standing on the pegs.

Sag numbers are not inches/millimeters. There are supposed to be a percentage of total travel. All bikes have different amounts of travel. This travel amount can vary depending on where you measure from. Basic rule is static sag is 10% of total travel, race is about 20~25%. So yo figure it, You first have to get total travel at the point you are measuring. Now being few of us have the need to be critical, on a DRZ, I measure from the axle to the Helmet lock.

Keep in mind, sag amounts are a starting point. You tune from there, just like clicker settings.

100mm race sag is good, but the 40mm static sag does indicate your rear spring is too stiff. If you have the factory 5.5kg spring try a 5.3.

Are you measuring all geared up? The extra weight of you gear may be enough to make it perfect.

Sorry... What I should of added is that im using the bike to ride to Capetown on from the UK..

I will probably have about 20kg of luggage on there too and will be riding a mix of tarmac and bag African roads, sand, corrogations etc...

I think ill keep the stock spring to compensate for the luggage.

Sag numbers are not inches/millimeters. There are supposed to be a percentage of total travel. All bikes have different amounts of travel. This travel amount can vary depending on where you measure from. Basic rule is static sag is 10% of total travel, race is about 20~25%. So yo figure it, You first have to get total travel at the point you are measuring. Now being few of us have the need to be critical, on a DRZ, I measure from the axle to the Helmet lock.

Keep in mind, sag amounts are a starting point. You tune from there, just like clicker settings.

That makes alot of sense but how do I measure my TOTAL travel ???

Do I keep piling bricks onto the seat until it bottoms out ?? :ride:

I measured with the bike on a stand, rear suspension completely decompressed(rear tire in the air), then with it sitting with just the bike's weight on it(static) and then with me sitting on it(race).

Then I adjusted it to get it as close to the recommended numbers as possible, and then adjusted the clickers from there to the feel I like.

That makes alot of sense but how do I measure my TOTAL travel ???

Do I keep piling bricks onto the seat until it bottoms out ?? :lol:

Ratchet straps. :ride:

Ratchet straps. :ride:

Ahhhhh good thinking Batman :lol:

You can cheat. Simply look in your owners manual. Total travel is there and on the Suzuki website.

You can cheat. Simply look in your owners manual. Total travel is there and on the Suzuki website.

I think they've pulled it off the Suzuki website. The last few times I've looked I couldn't find it.

Hrumpf!

I just looked at the Suzki site, you are right! All travel numbers- Gone!

SM

Front- 260 mm

Rear - 276 mm

S

Front - 288 mm

Rear - 295 mm

I do not have the E numbers though I suspect they are the same as a S

These numbers are for the late model (after 2003) bikes. I do not know if the other shock or fork variations had different travel.

Hrumpf!

I just looked at the Suzki site, you are right! All travel numbers- Gone!

SM

Front- 260 mm

Rear - 276 mm

S

Front - 288 mm

Rear - 295 mm

I do not have the E numbers though I suspect they are the same as a S

These numbers are for the late model (after 2003) bikes. I do not know if the other shock or fork variations had different travel.

Thanks mate ... very helpful

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