Doing some FINAL work on my New DRZ - Have a few questions if somebody could help :-)

Ok, I am pretty much done "most" of the work on my brand new (never ridden yet) DRZ-400SM.

Still have a couple months before riding season begins where I live. Stripped the bike completely to the core, and re-built greasing linkage, adding new parts (tail lights, MRD exhaust, FCR carb, bling parts, etc. etc.).

Anyway, I am down to the FINAL engine fixes, and after the last fiasco I had with the FCR carb install (TT printed instructions omitting a few steps), I thought I would CONFIRM a few questions I have BEFORE doing the last bit of work.

Ok, so here is the scope of work I have planned, with the associated questions below (but feel free to comment if anything else seems off).

MCCT install - OK, getting the bike to TDC should be no issue (will remove valve cover, verify, etc) . My understanding is once the ACCT is removed, I need to install and adjust the MCCT by hand until some slight resistance is felt.

Since I have my bike disassembled right now, I cannot start it back up to verify the bolt tension ... but will do that after its back together down the road (plus its stored indoors, another reason I cannot start it up). Once done up to this point, start the bike up and screw the bolt in further until no chain rattling is heard. ...

Then I plan on proceeding next week to the ...

Loctite fixes - Stator and Startor. Should be fairly straight forward. I will be using BLUE 243 (the same type Rekluse recommends on its bolts) as it is designed to set up in oil environments.


1. The bike is brand new ... so I am "guessing" the probability of being able to remove covers and keep the gaskets intact is quite high. Any comments?? Are people finding the gaskets seem to always tear when doing this work (even on a new bike) ??

2. The Loctite fix recommends using BLUE Loctite which is generally 242. I would "think" that Loctite BLUE 243 (the same type Rekluse recommends for use in its clutch) would be the better option?? Loctite 243 is designed to set up in oil environments where 242 is not (hence why Rekluse recommends it)?? I come from a MTB background ...this is an excellent article to read comparing 242 and 243 in oily environments (I'll also post in a seperate thread for comments). Perhaps the FAQ section needs updating??

3. Starter clutch - I was planning on just buying new M6 x 16 x 1.0 bolts for the install. From what I have read is the stock bolts can be either grade 8.8 or 10.9. I also know you can use 12.9. My question is .. if I am going to replace them anyway... would people recommend the 10.9 or 12.9?? The only thing I am worried about with the 12.9 is that they may be too stiff and would have a higher potential for shearing??. If you were going to buy them, which would you buy .. or really is it fairly negligable? Also, they look to be just regular steel ... why not stainless or galvanized??

Easy questions, I know . . If there are ANY OTHER quirks or tips in doing these ... feel free to note them. Thanks in advance :ride:

Edited by supervokes


The cam chain....

Just put it together, and run the bolt in hand tight... but leave the nut loose, and tie a red ribbon around it so you don't forget to do it later. when you can get it running... start it up... lossen the bolt until you hear the rattle, then run it in until it's quiet. (almost no pressure) then tighten the nut.

1) if you didn't rip them... you should be able to use the mag/flywheel side. The only problem with re-using the clutch side is that there is a ring of sealant where the water pump mates to the engine case. Just inspect it, and re-use if you feel comfortable. If it didn't get riped... I would clean the case very well, put just a thin layer of yamabond (the gray version) around the pump hole, and reuse it. but just be aware... if you don't get a good seal there... you will pump water into the engine oil.

2) The type of thread locker is up to you. It's been debated over, and over again. Red thread locker is the best in most people eyes. Also... remember... it should be set up before ever seeing any oil... so your above statements are a little irrelevant. Also... blue thread locker is not as strong, and softens at a lower temp. (the engine gets hot)

3) You don't need galv or stainless bolts because the stator is wet with oil in our bikes. So a corrosion resistant bolt is just added cost, with no extra benefits. The bolt grade... here again... it's up to you. a std 8.8 metric is plenty strong. They aren't torqued to super high values, and the real strength is from the clamping friction of the 2 parts, and not only being held by the bolts. So... as above... it's just extra cost.

Regardless of what I say, or my opinions... you are of to a good start by stripping a new bike, and fixing Suzuki's F--- ups. :ride:

i would replace the clutch cover gasket .. mainly for the sealant as mentioned . its not as if they cost big money anyway .

take a note of your valve clearance for a future reference

Thanks guys :ride:

I'll go pick up a clutch cover gasket to be on the safe side.:bonk:

I am used to working on a CRF450, and while the components are the same, each bike has its own quirks. Ie .. clutch covers on the CRF are a rubber o-ring .. so I assumed it was the same with the DRZ ... good to know ahead of time. Still waiting for my manual to arrive ... ordered it a couple weeks ago :lol:

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