Tuning your suspension - Where to start?

[TexasBlues]

I have a question as a level 1 noob

used 2018 YZ250F, heavier springs installed by PO, which per race tech are ok for my size/weight (6’0”,200)

Heres my question...

I have not adjusted the suspension at all (PO may have)  and would like to know how to find a neutral/baseline position (front/rear) to make adjustments...

im not fast, can’t jump for shit, and basically totally suck at riding but would like to know how to find the ‘starting point’ for adjustments cuz I’m not ALWAYS gonna be this bad at it

thanks!

[Piney Woods]

Why do you want to change anything? Do you know enough yet to even recognize good/bad suspension action? Have you read the FIRST two threads in this section? Start there.

[TexasBlues]

11 hours ago, Piney Woods said:

Why do you want to change anything? Do you know enough yet to even recognize good/bad suspension action? Have you read the FIRST two threads in this section? Start there.

No sir, I do NOT know enough about it to tell anything but would like to know that if there is a ‘zero’ position, I can find it... maybe if I am having trouble with something an adjustment (along with improving technique) would help

i am curious and the factory setting are not listen in my manual (that I have found)

@Piney Woods thanks for referring the other ‘deeper’ posts... very helpful!

Edited January 30, 2021 by TexasBlues

[Piney Woods]

Its a "black" art, good luck!

[Trail_Trash]

On 1/28/2021 at 6:26 PM, TexasBlues said:

I have a question as a level 1 noob

used 2018 YZ250F, heavier springs installed by PO, which per race tech are ok for my size/weight (6’0”,200)

Heres my question...

I have not adjusted the suspension at all (PO may have)  and would like to know how to find a neutral/baseline position (front/rear) to make adjustments...

im not fast, can’t jump for shit, and basically totally suck at riding but would like to know how to find the ‘starting point’ for adjustments cuz I’m not ALWAYS gonna be this bad at it

thanks!

https://motocrossactionmag.com/mxa-race-test-2018-yamaha-yz250f/

[TexasBlues]

10 hours ago, T.T. Rider said:

https://motocrossactionmag.com/mxa-race-test-2018-yamaha-yz250f/

Thanks very much,  @T.T. Rider

im gonna print the suspension section

??

[Piney Woods]

Have you read the stuff here at the top?

[TexasBlues]

6 hours ago, Piney Woods said:

Have you read the stuff here at the top?

Yessir...

since I posted, I have found a plethora of info on getting it back to ‘stick’ settings...

I raised my forks a little (8-10mm) and it helped with the constant nose up attitude when jumping but when the front comes down, it feels like a hard jarring in my hands... rear feels pretty good, maybe even a little soft for me

i do have a question about the blue nut on my rear shock (2018 YZ250F, not FX)... 

it’s adjusted as well as the clicker screw inside, correct?

Forks have top/bottom clickers for hard/soft or fast/slow and the rear has the clicker inside the blue nut... again, one is hard/soft or fast/slow

is this correct?

[Piney Woods]

Lets try again. Google Bruce's Suspension. READ all the info available concerning tuning the susp. Take note that some of it applies to KTM PDS and will NOT apply to your Yamaha.

[DEATH_INC.]

On 3/25/2021 at 2:33 PM, TexasBlues said:

Yessir...

since I posted, I have found a plethora of info on getting it back to ‘stick’ settings...

I raised my forks a little (8-10mm) and it helped with the constant nose up attitude when jumping but when the front comes down, it feels like a hard jarring in my hands... rear feels pretty good, maybe even a little soft for me

i do have a question about the blue nut on my rear shock (2018 YZ250F, not FX)... 

it’s adjusted as well as the clicker screw inside, correct?

Forks have top/bottom clickers for hard/soft or fast/slow and the rear has the clicker inside the blue nut... again, one is hard/soft or fast/slow

is this correct?

The inner screw is for low speed compression adjustment (clockwise harder, counterclockwise softer) and the blue 'nut' is for high speed compression adjustment (same directions). Slow and high speed refer to suspension movement speed, not bike speed.

Edited April 13, 2021 by DEATH_INC.

[TexasBlues]

18 minutes ago, DEATH_INC. said:

The inner screw is for low speed compression adjustment (clockwise harder, counterclockwise softer) and the blue 'nut' is for high speed compression adjustment (same directions). Slow and high speed refer to suspension movement speed, not bike speed.

Thank you

[777654321]

On 1/28/2021 at 6:26 PM, TexasBlues said:

I have a question as a level 1 noob

used 2018 YZ250F, heavier springs installed by PO, which per race tech are ok for my size/weight (6’0”,200)

Heres my question...

I have not adjusted the suspension at all (PO may have)  and would like to know how to find a neutral/baseline position (front/rear) to make adjustments...

im not fast, can’t jump for shit, and basically totally suck at riding but would like to know how to find the ‘starting point’ for adjustments cuz I’m not ALWAYS gonna be this bad at it

thanks!

@mog us a suspension Guru.

[mxaniac]

On 1/28/2021 at 6:26 PM, TexasBlues said:

I have a question as a level 1 noob

used 2018 YZ250F, heavier springs installed by PO, which per race tech are ok for my size/weight (6’0”,200)

Heres my question...

I have not adjusted the suspension at all (PO may have)  and would like to know how to find a neutral/baseline position (front/rear) to make adjustments...

im not fast, can’t jump for shit, and basically totally suck at riding but would like to know how to find the ‘starting point’ for adjustments cuz I’m not ALWAYS gonna be this bad at it

thanks!

Start off easy and work your way up.

1)  Set your rear suspension sag.

2)  Set your fork rebound.  If it oversteers screw the clicker at the bottom of your fork in.  If it understeers screw it out.

3) Adjust your rear shock rebound.  If it packs up and doesn't come up on time for the next bump, open up the flat bladed screw at the bottom of the shock clevis.  Another thing is nose diving when you jump, if it does you need to go in on the screw.

4)  Fork compression, ride it, go in 5 clicks and ask yourself if it is better or worse?  go back to your starting point and go 5 clocks out, how did that feel.  Once you get the gist of it, 2 clicks should become apparent.

5)  Big nut on your shock reservoir, open it so that you blow through on big hits faster.  Turn it in to slow down big hits.  The little screw in the middle is essentially the same as the screw at the top of your forks.

20 people are going to pile on and say this is wrong.

[Piney Woods]

I think 2 is just the opposite of what you state. But I just woke up so,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Edited May 17, 2022 by Piney Woods

[WillR17]

helpful

[ridleyredraider]

I've been reading around but want to confirm with someone that knows what they're talking about.... I rode a sand track for the first time in a while and the rear end was all over the place on exit... I'm thinking the tire wasn't digging down and was floating across the top of the sand not getting traction. Fresh X20 so that's not the issue. I know increasing rebound in the shock will help but want to avoid packing... what else should I consider? I would think increasing compression would make it worse... is this possibly a sag issue?

[mog]

14 minutes ago, ridleyredraider said:

I've been reading around but want to confirm with someone that knows what they're talking about.... I rode a sand track for the first time in a while and the rear end was all over the place on exit... I'm thinking the tire wasn't digging down and was floating across the top of the sand not getting traction. Fresh X20 so that's not the issue. I know increasing rebound in the shock will help but want to avoid packing... what else should I consider? I would think increasing compression would make it worse... is this possibly a sag issue?

You want normal fork rebound , stuff compression, stiff rear compression and rebound 

It will pack to a degree but it's better than pogo 

The front needs to be less grippy than normal , you have to flow and not try to turn 

[ridleyredraider]

1 hour ago, mog said:

You want normal fork rebound , stuff compression, stiff rear compression and rebound 

It will pack to a degree but it's better than pogo 

The front needs to be less grippy than normal , you have to flow and not try to turn 

Thanks, Mog. Stiff rear rebound = more rebound damping, correct?

[mog]

1 minute ago, ridleyredraider said:

Thanks, Mog. Stiff rear rebound = more rebound damping, correct?

Yes ?