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Tuning your suspension - Where to start?


Bryan II

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I have a new Yamaha 2014 YZ 250F and I was told that sag setup is different depending if you want better handling for cornering or better stability on rough faster tracks. Where should the Sag be for better cornering and then where should it be for better stability? Is there a difference? My weight with gear on is 205lb.

Thank you in advance

If you're 205lb I would start by getting new springs the correct rate for your weight. race-tech spring calculator will help you out

http://racetech.com/VehicleSearch

Then you want your sag set at approximately 100mm slightly less sag will have you cornering quicker but make it more unstable at speed and slightly more will give you more stability and slightly less cornering ability! I have a crf450x sprung for 200lb with sag set at about 97-98mm without gear so would be around the 100 mark with gear! I personally wouldn't change your sag too much from 100mm as that will give you the most balanced feel +/- a few mm won't destroy stability or handling but may help you in your quest for quick turning or high speed stability! You can also drop your fork in the clamps (clamps up) to give you more stability of lift your forks (clamps down) for quicker turning! But honestly in my opinion neutral setting of 100mm and forks left in the clamps at stock height is the best of both worlds!

Regards,

Nusk

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I have a new Yamaha 2014 YZ 250F and I was told that sag setup is different depending if you want better handling for cornering or better stability on rough faster tracks. Where should the Sag be for better cornering and then where should it be for better stability? Is there a difference? My weight with gear on is 205lb.

Thank you in advance

 Congrats on the new bike .

The manual for your bike should tell you a good starting point  but its just a baseline really .  Riding style , terrain  and personal preference plays a big part in what suits you best .  If your bike feels great as it is right now but you want it to corner a bit more . you can decrease your race sag  raising the rear of the bike  . for stability you'd want to increase the race sag  lowering the rear of the bike  .

  The best way to figure out what works best for is to make these adjustments in the field .

Edited by xxcody2gunsxx
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  • 2 months later...

THIS IS ALOT OF GREAT INFORMATION, BUT I JUST HAVE A HARD TIME WRAPPING MY BRAIN AROUND SUSPENSION TUNING. IM PUTTING IN NEW FORK SEALS ON MY 04 HUSQVARNA CR 125. THE FRONT TENDS TO WASH OUT EVEN THOUGH IT HAS A NEW FRONT TIRE. IT DOES HOWEVER ABSORB LOGS AND BUMPS PRETTY WELL ON THE FRONT. THE REAR IS ANOTHER STORY. I GET GREAT TRACTION BUT WHEN IM HITTING A LOG THE REAR WILL KICK BACK SO HARD IVE DAMN NEAR GONE OVER THE BARS PLENTY OF TIMES. IM 5'11 190 POUNDS. SHOULD I BE CONCERNED ABOUT REVALVING OR CAN I GET THIS THING TO ABORB THE WOODS TERRAIN BETTER JUST WITH ADJUSTMENTS? THANK YOU.


Shoot sorry about the all caps there guys.

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You really need to start a new thread , but not always as your suspension maybe riding low and making it feel harsh , the valving is probably too stiff for that type of riding as well but you always start with springs for your weight

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  • 5 months later...

hey man. i have a 01 rm250 and i got the suspension set up to what the internet told me was correct. it feels like the front end wants to wash out in the corners and off jumps the back end wont stay under me. im looping out all over the place. and if i try to mess with the settings, i cant find the happy medium to where my bike will be comfortable.

any advice?

I found when I was younger racing 250f, that if the front end wouldn't stick to the ground like glue it wasn't soft enough( note: if you soften the forks for corners make damn sure you do the same to preload). Same with the rear, when it's nice and soft, the suspension will take most of the hit from the bike and absorb it. If you don't have traction and are sliding all over coming out of a corner, soften up (just not too much that you're bottoming out and hurting yourself.

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  • 1 year later...

hey guys new to Thumper Talk!. Have a question on setting SAG. I weight about 150lbs with out gear on 153-155 with gear on!. New to the dirt bike world!, where do i need to set my SAG I'm looking in the owners manual to find SAG and can not find it anywhere!?. What would be the right amount of SAG for me and my weight? is the factory spring okay for me? Do i need to change it?. Do a mix of all types of riding. let me know what you guys think! Thanks for reading my post hope to hear from you guys!. 

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  • 7 months later...
On 10/03/2017 at 10:37 PM, JRW86 said:

hey guys new to Thumper Talk!. Have a question on setting SAG. I weight about 150lbs with out gear on 153-155 with gear on!. New to the dirt bike world!, where do i need to set my SAG I'm looking in the owners manual to find SAG and can not find it anywhere!?. What would be the right amount of SAG for me and my weight? is the factory spring okay for me? Do i need to change it?. Do a mix of all types of riding. let me know what you guys think! Thanks for reading my post hope to hear from you guys!. 

http://www.teknikmotorsport.com/Offroad-MX-Enduro-SX-Motorcycle-Suspension-Tuning

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm too heavy with gear for my stock KTM 350 EXC suspension.  At 210 with gear I can't get close to the right rider sag without cranking up the pre-load to point where I have less than 1/2 inch of static sag.  I'm told I have to move up 2 sizes from stock springs.  My question is do I have to re-valve?  I've been told that I should after changing springs but not sure why.  The manual talks about upping or dropping spring weights but there is no mention of re-valve requirement.      

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  • 6 months later...
On 9/2/2013 at 8:22 PM, 2t4ever said:

Setting sag by yourself can be tricky. I taped a laser flashlight to the top of the rear fender and marked the red dot on my garage wall before and after adjustments with a magic marker. 

 

Also, if your springs aren't designed for your weight range you'll never get it right. 

 

This is probably a no-brainer but tire pressure is also key-especially in the front. A few pounds of too much air will screw up handling big time. 

I really like the laser idea...but how did you mark the wall if you are sitting on your bike?

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