Raising forks in triple clamps

I'm wondering if you can slide the forks up in the triple clamps without removeng the front tire? :):D

Also does anyone have an opinion on what spring rate I would need on my rear shock for my weight? My weight fluctuates between 200 & 210 depending on the season :D I have"nt tried to set my race sag yet due to the fact that the stock spring is for someone 175 lbs soaking wet so I did'nt want to waste my time until I could put a stiffer spring on. Thanks for any and all input. :D

Smoke :D

JUST SET YOUR SAG!!!!!!!! I weigh 220 pounds and I set it. I have zero static sag, but things seem fine and it made a world of difference to do it. I had to turn the preload nut down 8 turns to get to 9 cm of sag with me on it. I am thinking about a stiffer spring, but I don't want to loose the caddy ride. I also slid my forks up without taking the tire off and everything was fine. Just move one side a little at a time. That way might not be kosher, but it worked fine for me. :)


Of course. Just loosen the triple clamps and slide the forks up together. I have mine 15 mm up with a dampener but most people like 5 to 10 mm up. It improves the bikes handling! :)

Oh I forgot to mention putting the bike up on a stand or milk crate makes it much easier. :)

Thanks Indy! I know that if you see my post, I can count on you to bail me out. Whats you feeling on the rear spring? Should I set my sag now or wait to get a stiffer spring? I know at my weight that if I get sag right, the free sag will be wrong. The book says that the stock spring is a 5.3 kg spring and that riders at my weight are changing theirs to a 5.7 or a 5.8. I don't want it to be too stiff in the woods but also don't want to bottom while landing a good size jumps either. Thanks again for responding! :)

Smoke :D

Get the 5.6 if you like it on the soft side. I have a 5.8 but I am 225 lbs and like it on the stiffer side. The springs are in stock at RaceTech and it only takes a few days to get it via ups ground. $100 approx cost and you can change it yourself without special tools. If you set the sag right with the stock spring you run the risk of chewing up the collars trying to get enough compression on your stock spring. So just leave it alone and order the new spring. You have enough dampening adjustment in the rear shock for the heavier spring so you should be able to dial it in. :)

I forgot to mention that dampening and valve rates really determine the set up for woods and MX terrain. The springs are more or less to set up the bike for your weight. Your suspension works a lot better in the woods if you do not over preload soft springs. Dont be afraid of getting the right springs and get them for your riding weight. I figure I have up to 25Lbs. of riding gear with camelback, fannypack & the occasional fender tool pack. so I sized my spring for 240 - 245 lbs range.


I weigh 205 and have set my rider sag and the static sag is nuts. Give it a try before you go and buy a new spring.


Yea I had mine set for the first month while I was waiting for RaceTech to make springs for it. I had the spring peloaded compressed 2.5" further from the stock position on the collar. Made the rear much harsher over the first third of suspension travel. But yes you can weigh 300lbs and compress the stock shock beyond the recommeded collar line if you dont want to change the spring. I had about an inch of thread left but the suspension rode like crap. :)

Indy, I think I will change the rear to a 5.6 or a 5.7 but does that mean that I must change the fronts too so the suspension will be balanced? I'm not afraid to tackle the rear spring but the fronts scare me alittle :D. I,ve been adressing one thing at a time here but when I finally get time to tune a particular item I want it to be right the first time. there is no half a$$ed repairs or tuneing done on MY bike. This is why I do not wish to set my sag with wrong spring like some of the other posters here and waste my time only to have the race sag in the recomended range but no free sag at all and a harsh suspension. Indy, My dealer has a in house pro-action suspension shop and I will talk to the head guy there on Monday and get his advice also but I wanted to be an educated consumer before hand so they won't talk me in to or out off things I do not need at this time. My plan was to have them revalve and respring over the winter but if I do the rear or the front & rear sping(s) myself, that will save me some coin later :D I am just not sure if changing only the rear spring will make my suspension worse than it is now. Thanks! :D

Smoke :)

I also slid mine up 15mm without removing the front wheel. I used a dial caliper set at that depth to make sure both sides were equal and had the bike on a stand.

I did it because I'm short :) and that lowered the seat height. Handling is a lot quicker but it's considerably more busy in the sand. I rode about 100+ miles of sand in Moab a month ago and I noticed a big difference.


Thanks vmax, I did it the exact same way you did but only went up 10mm for now :D. I am still waiting on avise for rear spring rate for 200-210 lb w/o gear on and if I should also change the front springs to keep things balanced :D. If so, I'm not sure as to what springs to use up front. Some riders have changed rear spring only and say its fine :).

Smoke :D

Standard the bike feels imbalanced (in AUS spec) I will fit a 5.6kg (shock) and .46kg (fork) spirngs from my 01 250 and I hope these will be in the ballpark the standard fork (.44) seems ok until warp speed then wallows. but the standard shock spirng is way too soft, feels like a chopper (or RC bike) to ride. The bike won't turn with the standard rear spring.

going to change all my springs but have never taken a fork apart b-4 :D I am alittle afraid of it not being right when reassembled :).

Don't worry, changing fork springs is a snap. Just loosen the top triple clamp bolt then unscrew the fork cap. If the set up is the same as my 97 Kayabas, just hold the cartridge bolt with a thin 17mm wrench while unscrewing the the fork cap off the cartridge rod. The spring lifts right off the cartridge rod once the fork cap is off. Look at your owners manuel.

I also agree with Indy or whoever it was that said it, the appropriate (stiffer) spring rate for your weight will not make your bike ride harsh. In fact, the opposite is true. With the appropriate spring weight, the bike will stay up in the travel with less compression damping and with less preload on the spring, thus allowing the action of the shock to be more plush and controlled. :)

Be very careful just how far you raise the forks in the upper clamp. Keep the upper clamping surface on the fork tube within the limits of the clamp it's self. I recently saw a young man that raised his so far up in the clamp that the surface of the forks being held was less than half an inch. He was at the MX track and landed a jump on the front wheel...Needless to say because the upper clamp has the most torque 17 lbs and did not have adequate surface to hold the forks in place....The lower clamp torqued at 14 lbs gave way, as well as the upper clamp....and this kid crushed his throat on the bars when everything collapsed.

Hopefully he will recover.

The moral of this story is to always keep the polished sections of the forks within the limits of the clamp.

Bonzai :)

When I remove the springs in the forks will I be dealing with the fork oil at all. I got a quote today to have Pro-action respring, revalve and differant oil from stock but I must remove forks and shock and bring.They told me $575 for everything. That is about what I expected it would be so I will think about it for a week or so.

Smoke :)

Hey foursmoke, Keep the stock front springs with the new rear. It works very well for me. If you have the money to revalve and change springs go ahead but It is hard to beat the stock front end of the WR. It works so well in woods and whoops. You can also go safely to 15mm fork raise but a steering dampner is a must. :)

"When I remove the springs in the forks will I be dealing with the fork oil at all?"

No. As long as you keep the fork tubes upright, only the oil that drips off the spring as you lift it out.

$575 for revalve and springs sounds pretty good though. Easy to remove the shock and forks and take them down, especially if you don't have to ship them.

$575.00 for a revalve and spring is HIGHWAY ROBBERY! I can get it done for $250.00 to $300.00 all day long by very competent tuners.....

Hell I just had my YZ forks Valved with new Race Tech "Delta Valves" new seals, new wipers, new slides and bushings for $340.00 out the door. And that was at a Yamaha dealership. If I had taken it (or Shipped them) to MXTUNER (TT MEMBER) it would have been less expensive.

Sounds like someone is fixing to get a multi-fingered prostate inspection...

Bonzai :)

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