best way to get snapped bolt out?

the bolt that holds the exhaust header on was apparently broke a long time ago before i owned this. i got the other bolt off no problem but it appears someone already tried to get this off seeing as how the threads are already stripped. i do have a "easy out" set but i really need to get the bolt off the first time.

i was wondering weather a torch would be best or try the easy out or something else maybe?

theres about a 1/4" to work with



Id try heat and vice grips first...or tack weld another bolt to it, then heat it and try to back it out. Ive even used JB weld and had that work. Heat is your friend, as is PB Blaster.


That looks like a sphincter clincher. I would try heat and the smaller drill bit/extractor set first. If this fails move up a size on the extractor. If that fails, It's an aluminum head. Drill out, Tap new threads, drill out exhaust hole on that side 1/16th and ride away. Good luck. -BIG DAN:thumbsup:

I'd get my dremel out and carefully cut a slot across the bolt, then use a load of heat and a load of penetrating fluid, and try and get it out using an impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer). If that failed I'd drill it out and either use an insert or tap a new thread.

I'd get my dremel out and carefully cut a slot across the bolt, then use a load of heat and a load of penetrating fluid, and try and get it out using an impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer). If that failed I'd drill it out and either use an insert or tap a new thread.

Thats a good idea...never tried that one.

Heat and vice grips. Use care, but use MAPP or acetylene.

You can heat the bolt itself expanding the bolt then spray some penetrating oil on it to quench it and contract the bolt and it should come right out if not repeat the process until successful.Just be careful not to overheat the aluminum. I have used this method on broken bolts in both iron and aluminum engine blocks and heads for years with good success. Welding a nut on the broken stub will also work as well and the heat will be concentrated better with better heat control.


I'd get my dremel out and carefully cut a slot across the bolt, then use a load of heat and a load of penetrating fluid, and try and get it out using an impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer). If that failed I'd drill it out and either use an insert or tap a new thread.

I'm liking what I'm hearing:thumbsup:Great idea!

I'm liking what I'm hearing:thumbsup:Great idea!

This normally works well and is something I've done on mowers and 4x4s many times over the years. The only thing is that you do need a couple of mm of bolt protruding from the hole to make it easy to cut the slot.


If you are not in a big hurry start out with some rust buster fluid of some kind applied with lots of heat. I think heating and cooling the area with shots of fluid in between can work wonders. Tapping on the end of the bolt sharply with a hammer can help get things loosened up also.

Cutting a slot on a bolt that small will weaken it considerably. In the end you may need to drill it out with a slightly smaller drill bit and then pick out the remaining threads.

Removing broken fasteners is a multi-step process. Each step is more destructive than the last, until finally you are rewarded with success.


I vote for tack another bolt to it. If you had to, you could tack a piece of steel with a hole drilled through it to use that as a lever, then bend it out of the way once you've got it moving. Avoid the extractor until you absolutely have to.

On second thought, I agree. Stay away from extractors. I work on jumbo jets where, you have to extract first time everytime. If you don't use them DAILY I wouldn't suggest it. They can be more trouble then they are worth if you don't know how to REALLY use them. Extracting 100 screws a day from a 747 wing gets you really good at it. I am the bolt whisperer. -BIG DAN:thumbsup:

well th torchi do have does not get hot enough to get it red hot. and i cant find my bolt extractors. ill have to take it over to a friends house and try the welding trick. thanks for all the helpful ideas.

i don't htink you have to get it red hot... but it can't be super cold either

Welding a nut on the broken stub will also work as well and the heat will be concentrated better with better heat control.


That is the best way to get it out if you have enough to work with. Been an engineer for years, if a stud like that has snapped then you can safely assume that its very tight. Heat and lots of torque are the best tools to get it out easily-a welded on nut provides both of these, arc it in such a way that the weld penetrates into the nut and the side of the stud, if you just fill the hole the surface weld on the stud probably won't grip well enough to handle the turning forces.

This is not so easy if you don't know how to weld or you don't own a welder.

Using extractors is fickle, generally they need to be very good quality and even then its a lottery. Screw extractors like the 747 wing guy is going on about aren't up to the job. I have a good set of snap on hammer ins at work that are great on little aviation screws, but rubbish on anything thats really tight or bigger than 6mm.

Heat, drill bit, extractor set....good call.

That is the best way to get it out if you have enough to work with. Been an engineer for years, if a stud like that has snapped then you can safely assume that its very tight. Heat and lots of torque are the best tools to get it out easily-a welded on nut provides both of these, arc it in such a way that the weld penetrates into the nut and the side of the stud, if you just fill the hole the surface weld on the stud probably won't grip well enough to handle the turning forces.

This is not so easy if you don't know how to weld or you don't own a welder.

Using extractors is fickle, generally they need to be very good quality and even then its a lottery. Screw extractors like the 747 wing guy is going on about aren't up to the job. I have a good set of snap on hammer ins at work that are great on little aviation screws, but rubbish on anything thats really tight or bigger than 6mm.

I think it would hold just fine ("fill the hole").I would get a nut and put it on as far as it will go , then using a TIG welder fuse the nut to the broken bolt. No rod needed, start with all your heat on the nut and move your pool over and around. Good luck and keep us posted.


Stay away from extractors if you can,and if you must use one do it as easy as you can,to many times i have had them snap off,then you can't drill it out for anything so you can tap it either.Go with the vice grips to start.

If the bolt was so tight it twisted off an extractor is going to break off too. Then when you try to drill it out the drill walks into the softer bolt and even softer head.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Bryan Bosch

      Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Rider Starts his Quest to Defend Cross-Country Rallies World Championship
      March 15, 2018 – (Motor Sports Newswire) – Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing’s Pablo Quintanilla will re-start his 2018 international rally racing campaign on March 24 to 29 at the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge in the United Arab Emirates. Working hard towards returning to full competitive fitness following a foot injury sustained during the closing stages of the Dakar Rally, Pablo’s teammate Andrew Short is expected to join the Rockstar Energy Husqvarna Factory Racing squad at the 2018 Merzouga Rally in mid-April.

      With the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge playing host to the opening round of the 2018 FIM Cross-Country Rallies World Championship, the event in the UAE will see Pablo Quintanilla begin the defence of his FIM Cross-Country World Championship title. Securing eighth overall at the 2018 Dakar Rally in January, the Chilean rally star is already looking forward to a solid return to racing aboard his FR 450 Rally machine.
      Successfully wrapping up his debut participation at the prestigious Dakar Rally with a top 20 result, Andrew Short has been recuperating from a fractured tibia and fibula on his lower right leg. Resuming his training sessions in the middle of March, the American has his eyes set on making a return to racing at the Merzouga Rally on April 15/20, in the dunes of Morocco.
      Celebrating its 28th edition in 2018, the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge is a six-stage-long rally taking place in the southern part of the United Arab Emirates. Kicking off with the traditional Super Special Stage on Saturday, March 24, the event will continue with five more days of racing in the Liwa Desert before competitors reach the finish line inside the Yas Marina circuit on March 29, 2018.

      Pablo Quintanilla: “Abu Dhabi will be our first race after the Dakar and I’m really looking forward to it. It’d be good to start the season carrying the #1 plate on my Husqvarna as the reigning champion. With it being the first race for the new season, it is important for everybody. My goal is to get a good race pace from the beginning in order to be inside the group of leading riders. The season will be long and my plan is to continue improving my pace as the racing goes on. I want to get back my racing speed and also remain strong throughout the event in Abu Dhabi. Taking place in deep sandy dunes, the Desert Challenge is always a tough event and it is also highly probable that we will have to race in high temperatures. It’s going to be a challenge but I’m looking forward to it.”
      Husqvarna Motorcycles. Tradition on two wheels since 1903.
      Husqvarna Motorcycles are widely known and respected in the off-road world for a heritage of competition and numerous motocross and enduro world championships. Originally founded in Sweden in 1903, Husqvarna Motorcycles have been designed and manufactured in Mattighofen, Austria since 2013.
      Rockstar Energy Drink
      Rockstar Energy Drink is designed for those who lead active lifestyles – from Athletes to Rockstars. Available in over 20 flavors at convenience and grocery outlets in over 30 countries, Rockstar supports the Rockstar lifestyle across the globe through Action Sports, Motor Sports, and Live Music. For more information visit:
      Source: Husqvarna Motorcycles GmbH

    • By Kev_XR
      If you own an XR250, many of these tips will apply, however, the carburator jet sizes will be different.
      It really helps others answer your questions.
      I will fix them as time allows.
      Until then the Search Feature and enter "kevin's xr400 mods".
      The results will bring up most of the links.
      Here are some frequently asked questions I have answered before.
      Which XR should I buy?
      The longer the straights, the taller the hills, the deeper the sand; the bigger XR you want. The tighter the trail, the smaller hills, firmer terrain; the smaller XR you want.
      The XR400 has a great motor that will pull you almost anywhere. You can be sloppy on a hill climb on an XR400, where you have to keep the 250 singing. The XR400 weight is most noticable when you drop it or try to stop it going down a long downhill. (Moooomentum!)
      The XR250 feels like a mtn bike compared to the XR400. My friend rode his XR250 for years before decided he needed more power. Even then you can add a 300 kit and get good power.
      If you were heading to ride fireroads in Baja, I'd tell you to get the 600/650.
      To the tight woods, get the 250.
      A lot of both, the 400.
      Dual-sporting? Go bigger for more freeway, but don't show up at the trailhead with too big of a bike.
      All of the XR's are great. Pick the one that fits your needs.
      Gordon's Mods for XR400 (Uncorking the bottle up performance)
      Gordon's Mods for XR400
      XR400 History
      The changes to the XR400 have been listed here several times. This list appears to be complete.
      In addition, HairyScary discusses how to tell if a part has been updated by the part number. Good tip!
      XR400 history
      Getting the Spark plug out
      It seems the MotionPro spark plug socket does not work on the XR400R, but works on the XR250R.
      There is an OEM tool kit being sold on eBay that seems to work.
      717448 XR400 oil change
      Here is a way to make changing the oil much cleaner.
      This tips is really handy if you have a skid plate.
      XR400 oil change
      XR400 FAQ by Paul Gortmaker
      Paul usually has very good info.
      Small bolts
      BE CAREFULL with the bolts on the oil filter cover!
      An oil covered bolt will not torque at the same rate as a dry bolt.
      The friction doesn't build up, the force simply builds until the threads strip.
      This is the reason many people strip out these bolts.
      Here is an execllent website on bolts, oil, and misc values.
      Did you ever wonder why a 8mm box wrench is half as long as a 18mm box wrench?
      It is shorter as most 8mm bolts cannot take very much torque.
      I highly recommend getting getting an 1/4" socket set.
      I bought the Craftsman set at Orchard (owned by Sears), which tends to sell them for less.
      What is the Snorkle?
      This place has a description and pic, it's easy after you pull the seat. I siliconed a piece of coarse screen (fiberglass) over mine to keep bugs and stuff out. - NORTEXT
      717439 XR400/250 Pre-Filter
      After pulling the snorkle, there is a big hole on the top of your XR400. My friend showed me this prefilter trick.
      767409 XR400 Engine Bog, Pilot jet, and the Fuel Screw
      On XR400's twisting the throttle from fully closed to wide open will cause the engine to "bog" or in some cases die.
      Engine Bog, Pilot jet, and the Fuel Screw
      831305 Valve adjustment (Am I retarded...)
      Inspect and adjust valve clearance while the engine is cold (35C, 95F).
      Valve adjustment
      389095 bigger jets (Lists stock jet sizes.)
      96-97 XR400's were jetted assuming you would remove the intake and exhaust snorkel.
      98 and later XR's were jetted assuming you would leave them in.
      bigger jets
      739907 Cheap Tool for Setting the Fork Oil Height
      There are some really nice tools out there for doing this job.
      This tool costs $4.49 at Kragen.
      Cheap Tool
      392932 high altitude jetting
      There are two big factors for jetting, elevation and temperature.
      high altitude jetting
      Allen screws for the XR400 carb
      This lists the screws you need to convert the XR400 carb to use allen screws.
      Allen screws
      Screws for the brake and clutch after removing the stock handguards
      TBD - There is a post with the shorter screw part numbers for after the stock handguards are removed. Use search.
      Very quick engine hop up
      This is a very minimal change that should take less than an hour.
      Most of that time is removing the float bowl (3 screws).
      If you decide to do the full "Gordon's Mods" later, you will need to replace the jets again.
      o Pull the intake snorkle.
      o Add a UniFilter.
      o Pilot jet to 55, main jet to 155. (Assuming sea level and moderate air temps.)
      Source: Motocross Action magazine.
      Quick engine hop up
      Gordon's mods
      Baja Designs Baja Baffle with 96' spark arrestor.
      Pull the intake snorkle, UniFilter, 60 pilot jet, 162 main jet.
      (Depending on altitude and temp.)
      What to add to a new XR400 or XR250?
      Acerbis wrap around style handguards (saves levers and bars as they don't dig in)
      Baja Designs skid plate (Made by Utah Sports Cycle)
      Acerbis fork/disc protector
      Grease headset and rear linkage
      Spend you money on the suspension, not a pipe!
      First get some stiffer fork springs (96-97, 98-99 years)
      Fork revalve (cost: 2 qts of oil & time)
      Shock revalve (cost: oil, nitrogen, shim stack, friend who knows shocks)
      Jetting for Altitude (XR400)
      Assuming at sea level and 68 degrees, you would use a 60 pilot and 162 main.
      At 5000 feet and 68 degrees.
      Jettting correction:
      5000 feet and 68 degrees.
      Main 0.96 * 162 = 155 -> 155 main
      Pilot 0.92 * 60 = 50.6 -> 55 pilot
      Due to your elevation, you have less air and less fuel.
      Your bike will not behave the same as a bike at sealevel.
      First, check the fuel screw. If it does not affect the idle speed, you have the wrong one.
      kevin's xr400 mods
    • By 230F
      Jetting the 230F
      By: Phil Vieira
      This project takes no less than 2 hours if you have never done jetting to a bike before. It took me 1.5 hours, to take my bike apart, take out the needle, change my pilot jet and the main, and take pictures along the way, but I have seen the inside of my carb 3 times, so I know my way around it pretty well…
      You should be jetting this bike right when you get it home. This bike comes lean from the factory. If you don’t know what that means, it means that the bike is getting too much air, in terms, a hotter engine, and your plugs will get hotter, and a decrease in HP. To make your engine last longer, do this.
      These jetting combos are for a 2000 feet and below scenario. Any altitudes higher, you should do a search on the forum. If it cannot be found, post on the forum. Please don’t post on the forum “How do I do this…” You have all the answers here.
      This project comes to a grand total of less than 30 dollars. The needle is 20, the main jet is about 3 dollars, and the pilot is 5 dollars. You may not need to do the pilot jet depending on your situation, but again, if you’re riding 2000 feet and below, it’s a good idea to get a pilot jet.
      The jets I used consist of a 132 main, 45 pilot and the power up needle with the clip on the 4th position.
      Part numbers:
      16012-KPS-921 – Needle (Includes Power up needle, Clip, and needle jet)
      99113-GHB-XXX0 – Main jet (Where XXX is the size)
      99103-MT2-0XX0 – Pilot jet (Where XX is the size)
      For the Jets, just tell them you need jets for a regular Keihn carb, (also known as a Keihn Long Hex) main jet size XXX, pilot jet size XX. They should know the part numbers. For the needle, bring the number along. If you are lazy, they should have a fiche and they can look up the numbers. Then again you can take in the old jets, and make sure they match up to the new ones.

      Now, the tools you will need are as follows:

      ~A collecting cup of some sort. I used a peanut butter jar.
      ~Ratchets for the following sizes:
      - 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm
      - Extension for the sockets needed
      ~Phillips and Flathead screwdriver (Be sure these are in perfect condition. A badly worn screwdriver will strip the screws)
      ~Needle nose pliers
      ~”Vise grips” or known as locking pliers (Two)
      ~Open end wrench 7mm and 12mm
      ~ It’s a good idea to have a extra hand around
      (Not needed, but I highly recommend tiny Phillips and flathead screwdrivers (Pictured next to the jar and the ¼” extension) I recommend these for removing a couple things since you can put pressure with your thumb on the end and unscrew it with the other hand. This insures that you will not over tighten any parts, and ensure that you will not strip the heads of the bolts.
      Ok, now that you have the tools, let’s start by putting the bike on a bike stand. I put it on the stand rather than the kickstand because it’s more stable and sits higher. I hate working on my knees. Start by taking the number plates off. Yes, both of them. The right side, you take off one bolt and the top comes off of its rubber grommets, pull the top off, and the plate comes right off. The left hand side, use the 10mm socket to take the battery bolts off, and then take the Phillips bolt near the back. Again, rubber grommets are used to hold the top in place. Take the seat off. There are two mounting bolts on the back:

      Those two bolts are both a 12mm socket. Use the open end wrench on the inside, and use the socket on the outside. You may need to use an extension if you don’t have a deep socket. Once you have the two bolts off, slide the seat back, and lift it up. This is what you have. Notice there is a hook in the middle and a knob on the tank. That is what you are sliding the seat off of.

      Now that the seat is off, you must take the gas tank off. Don’t worry, you won’t spill any gas any where, I promise. On the left hand side of the bike where the valve is, slide down the metal clip holding the tube in place. Turn off the gas supply, and slip the tube off slowly. Now take off the two bolts in the front of the take. This is on the lowest part of the gas tank in the front, behind the tank shrouds. The socket you will use is an 8mm socket. Take the bolts all the way off and set them aside. Now look back at the last picture posted. On the back of the tank, there is a rubber piece connected to the knob and the frame. Slip that rubber piece off of the frame. Pull the vent tube out of the steering stem and lift the tank up. Don’t tip it, and lay the tank aside where you won’t trip on it. This is what you’ll end up with:

      It may be a good idea to take a rag, and wipe all the dirt off the top of the bike if any. You don’t want anything dropping down into the carb. If you do, engine damage is the result. A clean bike is always a good thing! Now we must drain the gas out into that container. This is very easy. Make sure you open the garage door, windows, whatever, to let the fumes out. Breathing this crap is bad. Here is where the drain screw is:

      (Don’t worry about removing the carb, that comes later) This is on the right side of the carb, on the float bowl. The vent tube that goes down to the bottom of the bike is where the gas drains to. Put the jar under that tube and start to unscrew that screw, enough so that the gas leaks into that jar. Once the gas doesn’t drip anymore, close the screw all the way. Now on to the top of the carb. We are going to take this cover off:

      This cover comes off by removing the two screws. Once removed, the lid comes off as well as the gasket. Flip it over and set it aside. Do not set the gasket side down on the ground, as it will get contaminants! Here is what you are facing:

      The angle of the camera cannot show the two screws. But one is visible. It has a red dot, and opposite of that side is a darker red dot. I made it darker because it’s not visible, but that is where it is. This is where I use the miniature screw drivers to get the screws. I magnetize the screwdrivers, and use care to make sure I don’t strip the heads. Metal pieces in a piston are not good! Remove the two screws. Put these screws on a clean surface so they do not get contaminants. Now get your vise grips and set it so that it will lock onto the throttle, not too tight, not too loose. Set the vise grips on the seat. Start to open the throttle slowly as you guide that “plunger holder” (as I call it) up to the top. Once you have the throttle all the way open, take the vise grips, and lock it so that the throttle does not go back any more. What I do is I hold it pinned and lock it up against the brake so it doesn’t rewind on me. If you don’t have locking grips, a friend will do, just have them hold the throttle open all the way until you are finished. How fold the plunger holder to the back of the carb and pull the piece up to the top. Take care not to remove it, as it is a pain to get back together! If it came apart on you, this is what it should be assembled to:

      Once you get the holder out of the slider, set it back like this:

      As you can see, the bar is back 45 degrees, while the holder is forward 45 degrees to make a S. Here is what you are faced with when you look down on the carb:

      Where the red dot is where the needle lies. Grab needle nose pliers and carefully pull up the needle out of its slot. This is what the needle looks like once it is out.

      Now we must move the carb to take the bowl off. Untie the two straps on the front and back of the carb. Don’t take them off; just loosen them until the threads are at the end. Take the front of the carb off the boot and twist the bowl as much as you can towards you. Tie the back tie down to that it does not rewind back on you. This is what you have:

      Now we must take off the bowl. Some people take that hex nut off to change the main jet, which you can, but you cannot access the pilot jet, and you can’t take out the needle jet (a piece the needle slides into), so we need to take it off. It’s just three bolts. As we look at the underside of the carb, this is what you will see:

      The bolts with the red square dots are the bolts you will be removing. These are Phillips head bolts, and the bolt with the blue dot is your fuel screw. This is what you will adjust when the time comes, but keep in mind where that bolt is. You need a small flat blade to adjust it.
      Well, take those screws off, and you are faced with this:

      The blue dot is for cross reference, which is the fuel screw once again. The green dot is the pilot jet. You can remove this using a flat blade screwdriver. Just unscrew it and pull it out. Once you pull it out, set it aside and put in the 45 pilot jet you got. The red dot is the main. You remove this by using a 6mm socket. Just unscrew it. If the whole thing turns, not just the jet, but the 7mm sized socket under it, don’t worry, that piece has to come out as well. If it doesn’t, use a 7mm to unscrew it off. Here is what the jets look like:

      Pilot Jet

      Main jet attached to the tube. Take the main jet off by using an open end wrench and a socket on the jet. Again, it screws right off.
      Here is what you are faced with if you look form the bottom up.

      From left to right: Main jet, Pilot Jet, Fuel screw. Now in the main jet’s hole, if you look closely, you see a bronze piece in the middle of that hole. We are going to take this off. Since I did not do this part (I only changed my pilot jet when I took these pictures) there are no pictures taken for this section but this is really simple to do if you’ve been a good student and know where things go. You should know anyways, you have to put the bike back together!
      (Notice: There have been discussions about these needle jets being the same. Only change this needle jet if the one you have is worn out. If you do not have the old needle, a older drill bit bigger than 3/20ths (.150), and smaller than 11/100 (.11") Use the tapered side of the bit, set it down in the hole and tap it out carefully.)
      Now take your OLD needle, I repeat, the OLD needle because what you are going to do next will ruin it. Pull the clip off with your needle nose pliers, or a tiny screwdriver to pry it off. Then put the needle back in the hole where it goes. That’s right, just to clarify, you took off the needle, and you put the needle back in the hole with no clip. Slide the point side first, just as it would go normally. Now if you look at the bottom of the carb, the needle is protruding past the main jets hole. Grab another pair of locking pliers (vise grips as I call them) and lock it as tight as you can on the needle. Pull with all your might on the needle. Use two hands. Have a friend hold the carb so you don’t pull it off the boot. Tell them to stick their fingers in the hole that goes to the engine, and pull up. After pulling hard, the needle jet should slip right off. Then notice which side goes towards the top of the carb. There is one side that is a smaller diameter than the other. Take the new needle jet, and push it up into the hole the way the old one was set. Just get it straight. Take the tube the main jet goes into, and start threading it in. Once you can’t tie it down anymore with a ratchet, unscrew it and look at the needle jet to make sure it’s set. That’s it for the needle jet. Now let’s start putting the carb back together.
      (Notice: Many people have destroyed jets and such by overtighting them! Use the thumb on the head of the wrench and two fingers on the wrench to tighten it down.)
      Thread the main jet into the tube it goes into, and then start putting it back on the carb. Thread the pilot jet in as well if you haven’t done so already. Remember these carburetor metals are soft as cheese, so don’t over tighten the jets very much. What I do is I put my thumb on the top of my ratchet, and use two fingers closest to the head of the ratchet to tighten the jet. That’s how tight I go when I tie them back in.
      Now before we put the carb back together, let’s adjust the fuel screw. Take a small screwdriver, and start screwing in the fuel screw until it sets. Again, do not over tighten, just let it set. Then count back your turns. Count back 1.75 turns.
      Now we must put the bowl back on. The white piece that came off with the bowl goes back as followed:

      If you look directly under the carb, the round hole is aligned with the pilot jet. Take the float bowl, and put it back on.
      Untie the rear clamp and the front clamp as well. Slip the carb back the way it used to. Make sure that it is straight up and down with the rest of the bike. The notch on the front boot should be aligned with the notch on the carburetor, and the notch on the carburetor should be in that slot. Tie the clamps down securely.
      Let’s put the needle in. These are how the needle numbers go:

      The top clip position is #1, the lowest one, closest to the bottom, is #5. (The picture says six but it is five in this case) For reference #1 is the leanest position, while 5 is the richest. I put the clip in the 4th position. Read at the bottom of the page and you can know what conditions I ride in, and you can adjust them to your preference.
      Put the clip in the new needle, slip it in. Take the vise grips off your grips and start guiding the plunger holder down to the bottom. Remember not to let that assembly come apart because it is a pain in the ass to get it back together! Once you get it to the bottom, put the two screws on, and then put the cover on.
      Now that you have done the carburetor mods, there is still one thing you want to do to complete the process. Don’t worry, this takes less than a minute! On the top of the air box there is a snorkel:

      As you can see, you can slip your fingers in and pull it out. Do that. This lets more air in to the air box. Don’t worry about water getting in. There is a lip that is about 1/8” high that doesn’t let water in. When you wash, don’t spray a lot under the seat, but don’t worry about it too much.
      The next thing you must do is remove the exhaust baffle. The screw is a torx type, or you can carefully use an allen wrench and take care not to strip it:

      The screw is at the 5 o’clock position and all you do is unscrew it, reach in, and yank it out. This setup still passes the dB test. The bike runs 92 dB per AMA standards, which is acceptable. Just carry this baffle in your gear bag if the ranger is a jerk off. I’ve never had a problem, but don’t take chances.
      That’s it! Start putting your tank on, seat, and covers. After you put the seat on, pull up on the front, and the middle of the seat to make sure the hooks set in place.
      Turn on the bike, and take a can of WD-40. Spray the WD-40 around the boot where it meets the carburetor. If the RPM rises, you know you have a leak, and the leak must be stopped. You must do this to make sure there are no leaks!
      Here is my configuration:
      04’ 230F
      Uni Air filter
      132 Main Jet
      45 Pilot Jet
      Power up needle, 4th clip position
      Fuel screw 1.75 turns out
      Riding elevation: 2000ft - Sea level
      Temperature – Around 60-90 degrees
      Spark Plug Tips
      When you jet your carb, a spark plug is a best friend. Make sure your spark plug is gapped correctly, (.035) but that’s not all that matters. You want to make sure the electrode is over the center, and you want the electrode to be parallel, not like a wave of a sea. Put in the plug, and run the bike for 15 mins, ride it around too then turn it off. Then take off the spark plug after letting the bike cool. The ceramic insulator should be tan, like a paper bag. If it is black, it is running rich, if it is white, it is running lean. The fuel screw should be turned out if it is running lean, and turned in if it is running rich. Go ¼ turns at a time until your plug is a nice tan color.
      Making sure your bike is jetted correctly
      While you are running the bike for those 15 mins to check the plug color, you want to make sure it’s jetted correctly now. Here is what the jets/needle/screw control:
      0- 3/8 throttle – Pilot jet
      ¼ to ¾ throttle – Needle
      5/8 – full throttle – Main jet
      0-Full – Fuel screw
      Pin the gas, does it bog much? Just put around, is it responsive? When you’re coming down a hill, the rpm’s are high and you have no hand on the throttle, does it pop? If it pops, it is lean and the pilot jet should be bigger. If it’s responsive your needle is set perfectly. You shouldn’t have to go any leaner than the 3rd position, but I put mine in the 4th position to get the most response. Your bike shouldn’t bog much when you have it pinned. If it does it is too rich of a main jet.
      Determining the plug color, you will have to mess with the fuel screw.
      That’s it, have fun jetting, and any questions, post on the forum, but remember to do a search first.
      Also, if your bike requires different jets due to alititude, humidity, or temperature, please post the following so we can better assist you:
      Average temperature
      Altitude (If you do not know this, there is a link in the Jetting forum that you can look up your alititude)
      Average Humidity
      What jets you are currently running
      What the problem is (If there is one)
      Just do that and we'll help you out the best we can.
      EDIT: The girl using this login name is my girlfriend. You can reach me on my new login name at 250Thumpher
      Then again, you're more than welcome to say hi to her!
      -Phill Vieira
    • By kashlak
      JUst curious of how many bikes,quads,trikes people owned over the years and what they were?
      78 honda atc 70
      85 honda atc 110
      ?? handa trail 70
      78 yamaha mx 80
      85 yamaha yz 60
      82 yamaha it 125
      85 kawasaki kxt 250 tecate
      79 yamaha yz 400
      86 yamaha yz 125
      85 yamaha yz 80 (playbike)
      92 kawasaki kx 250
      93 yamaha xt 350
      and last but not least a 99 kawasaki kx 250
    • By Bosch232
      Were the XL's the predecessor to the XR's?
      I have a friend who's looking at an old XL350, and I don't know anything about these bikes.