best way to get snapped bolt out?

the bolt that holds the exhaust header on was apparently broke a long time ago before i owned this. i got the other bolt off no problem but it appears someone already tried to get this off seeing as how the threads are already stripped. i do have a "easy out" set but i really need to get the bolt off the first time.

i was wondering weather a torch would be best or try the easy out or something else maybe?

theres about a 1/4" to work with

bolt2.jpg

bolt1.jpg

Id try heat and vice grips first...or tack weld another bolt to it, then heat it and try to back it out. Ive even used JB weld and had that work. Heat is your friend, as is PB Blaster.

ditto

That looks like a sphincter clincher. I would try heat and the smaller drill bit/extractor set first. If this fails move up a size on the extractor. If that fails, It's an aluminum head. Drill out, Tap new threads, drill out exhaust hole on that side 1/16th and ride away. Good luck. -BIG DAN:thumbsup:

I'd get my dremel out and carefully cut a slot across the bolt, then use a load of heat and a load of penetrating fluid, and try and get it out using an impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer). If that failed I'd drill it out and either use an insert or tap a new thread.

I'd get my dremel out and carefully cut a slot across the bolt, then use a load of heat and a load of penetrating fluid, and try and get it out using an impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer). If that failed I'd drill it out and either use an insert or tap a new thread.

Thats a good idea...never tried that one.

Heat and vice grips. Use care, but use MAPP or acetylene.

You can heat the bolt itself expanding the bolt then spray some penetrating oil on it to quench it and contract the bolt and it should come right out if not repeat the process until successful.Just be careful not to overheat the aluminum. I have used this method on broken bolts in both iron and aluminum engine blocks and heads for years with good success. Welding a nut on the broken stub will also work as well and the heat will be concentrated better with better heat control.

Steve

I'd get my dremel out and carefully cut a slot across the bolt, then use a load of heat and a load of penetrating fluid, and try and get it out using an impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer). If that failed I'd drill it out and either use an insert or tap a new thread.

I'm liking what I'm hearing:thumbsup:Great idea!

I'm liking what I'm hearing:thumbsup:Great idea!

This normally works well and is something I've done on mowers and 4x4s many times over the years. The only thing is that you do need a couple of mm of bolt protruding from the hole to make it easy to cut the slot.

Pete

If you are not in a big hurry start out with some rust buster fluid of some kind applied with lots of heat. I think heating and cooling the area with shots of fluid in between can work wonders. Tapping on the end of the bolt sharply with a hammer can help get things loosened up also.

Cutting a slot on a bolt that small will weaken it considerably. In the end you may need to drill it out with a slightly smaller drill bit and then pick out the remaining threads.

Removing broken fasteners is a multi-step process. Each step is more destructive than the last, until finally you are rewarded with success.

Joe

I vote for tack another bolt to it. If you had to, you could tack a piece of steel with a hole drilled through it to use that as a lever, then bend it out of the way once you've got it moving. Avoid the extractor until you absolutely have to.

On second thought, I agree. Stay away from extractors. I work on jumbo jets where, you have to extract first time everytime. If you don't use them DAILY I wouldn't suggest it. They can be more trouble then they are worth if you don't know how to REALLY use them. Extracting 100 screws a day from a 747 wing gets you really good at it. I am the bolt whisperer. -BIG DAN:thumbsup:

well th torchi do have does not get hot enough to get it red hot. and i cant find my bolt extractors. ill have to take it over to a friends house and try the welding trick. thanks for all the helpful ideas.

i don't htink you have to get it red hot... but it can't be super cold either

Welding a nut on the broken stub will also work as well and the heat will be concentrated better with better heat control.

Steve

That is the best way to get it out if you have enough to work with. Been an engineer for years, if a stud like that has snapped then you can safely assume that its very tight. Heat and lots of torque are the best tools to get it out easily-a welded on nut provides both of these, arc it in such a way that the weld penetrates into the nut and the side of the stud, if you just fill the hole the surface weld on the stud probably won't grip well enough to handle the turning forces.

This is not so easy if you don't know how to weld or you don't own a welder.

Using extractors is fickle, generally they need to be very good quality and even then its a lottery. Screw extractors like the 747 wing guy is going on about aren't up to the job. I have a good set of snap on hammer ins at work that are great on little aviation screws, but rubbish on anything thats really tight or bigger than 6mm.

Heat, drill bit, extractor set....good call.

That is the best way to get it out if you have enough to work with. Been an engineer for years, if a stud like that has snapped then you can safely assume that its very tight. Heat and lots of torque are the best tools to get it out easily-a welded on nut provides both of these, arc it in such a way that the weld penetrates into the nut and the side of the stud, if you just fill the hole the surface weld on the stud probably won't grip well enough to handle the turning forces.

This is not so easy if you don't know how to weld or you don't own a welder.

Using extractors is fickle, generally they need to be very good quality and even then its a lottery. Screw extractors like the 747 wing guy is going on about aren't up to the job. I have a good set of snap on hammer ins at work that are great on little aviation screws, but rubbish on anything thats really tight or bigger than 6mm.

I think it would hold just fine ("fill the hole").I would get a nut and put it on as far as it will go , then using a TIG welder fuse the nut to the broken bolt. No rod needed, start with all your heat on the nut and move your pool over and around. Good luck and keep us posted.

:ride:

Stay away from extractors if you can,and if you must use one do it as easy as you can,to many times i have had them snap off,then you can't drill it out for anything so you can tap it either.Go with the vice grips to start.

If the bolt was so tight it twisted off an extractor is going to break off too. Then when you try to drill it out the drill walks into the softer bolt and even softer head.

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