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Unable to ride, so a lot of (practical) upgrades - long winded

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Okay, so couldn’t ride for a couple of moths due to knee surgery (Not Bike Related), then I have vertigo issues (again Not Bike Related). So I have been living in the garage. Over the Christmas break I restored an 86 YZ125 that I got off of Craig’s list for $125.

86YZ125.jpg

Then I stated on my 06 KX250f. First I rebuilt the forks with new bushings and seals and some new take off springs (the forks seemed too stiff for my 190lbs). Next since I don’t race, but ride everything from desert to trails I added a kickstand. It is a KTM that I got off of eBay and with a little modification it works great and tucks up out of the way. I can stand on it and kick away to my hearts content. Plus it really comes in handy when one of the little ones kisses a Yucca tree or rock. I don’t have to drop my bike to help them.

kickstand.jpg

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Another change that I made was to change the location of my puke tank. Awhile back I posted how I added a puke tank to my bike. Some of the criticism was that it might block some radiator flow. Thus I moved the puke tank into the air box. I don’t think that it will hamper air flow much, but I’m sure someone will let me know if I’m wrong. The only times I see wide open are on the long hill climbs.

PukeTank.jpg

Next I have noticed that some of the skid plate manufacturers are using rubber inserts to mount the plates. The claim is that it takes away from the frame flex that the bike is supposed to have. Now I don’t know if that is hype, but even so at my riding skill I doubt I would notice it. However I have a Ricochet plate and it is massive (after a friend lost his CR450f engine to a rock I want protection) I also know that when you have a massive plate of aluminum attached to a frame it will transmit a lot of noise and vibration. So I cut the front stands off of the skid plate and used shock bushings to take their place. For the back I was going to use some rubber grommets and machine some bushings. However, I was in Kragon’s and found some universal windshield wiper grommets with built in sleeves that worked perfect. So now there is about 1/8” between the plate and the frame with no metal to metal contact.

OriginalSkidplate.jpg

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Last but not least was to make a flywheel holder. I am having electrical problems, so I new the flywheel would have to come off. This was by far the hardest project. Luckily my son found a piece of tubing in the back forty that was just a little bit larger then diameter that I needed. The down side is didn’t machine well. First I machined the diameter a little smaller then was need to fit into the fly wheel. I then welded a plate to the end of the pipe for holding pins. Then back to the lathe to make sure the pipe and plate was true. I wanted the holder to move easier when inserting and removing it from the flywheel so I put a PVC sleeve on the pipe. I bored a 2” ID PVC pipe to just a couple of thousandths small then the steel pipe. Before I put the PVC on to the pipe I welded on two nuts to mount a handle. Next I heated the PVC with a heat gun and pressed into onto the pipe. Then back to the lathe to turn the PVC down to the final diameter. Once this was done I slipped the holder into the fly wheel and used transfer punches to mark the location for the holding pins. I had to do this twice, once for the stock flywheel and once for the Steahly I am trying. Once I had my marks I used 6Mx1 Allens for the stock flywheel and 5Mx8 Allens for the Steahly. Last I cut the heads off of the Allens, the cut a groove for a screw drive and the hard part was done. Just had to make a handle to bolt onto the holder and it worked like a charm.

FlywheelTool.jpg

FlywheelTool2.jpg

Hope I get better soon, I’m running out of “FUN” things to do

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Hi

I am looking to fit a coolant recovery tank just like you have. Just a few questions to ask as I have had a few disputes with people from work about installing one. the tube from the rad filler neck (overflow) runs and connects to the bottom of the recovery bottle, and the tube from the top of the recovery bottle leads off somewhere to get rid of overflow? is this right? What I had the dispute about was the rad cap, a guy told me that when the coolant in the rad cools the rad cap will close and shut off the hole for the coolant to flow back into to rad........is this so? I was planning on either making my own bottle or buying one similar to yours. any help would be great! I had a hare scramble this weekend and did suffer from overheating, so I am hoping this will solve my problems! How have your experiences been?

Cheers

Alex

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Thats the problem with experts, they may tend to push you in the wrong direction. I am not an expert on the entire process, but if it doesn't work why does Pro Circuit and bikes like WR and even your daily car all has the same system.

There are different types of recovery tanks, the main thing you want to be sure is that the tube between the raidiator is at the bottom of th puke tank.

If they give you you a hard time, ask them why they have one on their car

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If they give you you a hard time, ask them why they have one on their car

Because coolant being blown onto the road is just a tad bit dangerous.

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