Trail Tech Flywheel

I am installing the heavier flywheel on our 08 150 r. I took out the flywheel nut no problem with an impact but i cant hold the flywheel still to be bale to torque it down. When in gear and brakes pressed it turns, resistance increases but wont tighten and rear wheel turns. What are some tricks you guys have used to hold the flywheel still while you torque, after all i cant see why it is so hard if it is only torqued to 47ftlbs (dealer recommendation). I want to to finish this today to get out there this weekend so please let me know your tricks asap. Thanks.

I used a strap wrench around the flywheel. Need a second set of hands tho. Woked for me and i have a rekluse clutch, so with the added resistance of your bike in gear, should be a breeze.

I used a good strap wrench AND a very large pair of channel lock plyers. AGREE with above .. get somebody to hold the strap wrench (and channel locks) while you torque the nut. Its a 2 person job.

I had to put the strap wrench around it, and then use the channel locks ON TOP of the Straps to keep it from turning..

** Make sure there is no oil on the flywheel .. use contact cleaner, otherwise it will just spin even with a strap wrench on it.

You'll figure out a way to make it work :ride:

** JUST FYI: I bought a trailtech flywheel and it DID NOT WORK with the stock stator (even though the website says it does). They MAY have changed it by now though, or only the first production run had issues. If you look on the box, it will say "lighting flywheel" ... where the stock stator is designed for a "non-lighting" flywheel.

Also check to make sure your puller will thread onto the flywheel before tightening it to the bike. The first production set had the threads screwed up on the flywheel (takes only a few seconds to make sure).

If the bike dies after about 60 seconds, or starts lugging back and forth, shut the bike off.

Trailtech was very good to deal with ... and hopefully this is no longer an issue with the 150R's flywheels they produce. I must have got one of the first ones produced.

Just thought I would give you a heads up just in case you have the same experiences I did.

Either way, let us know how it works (as I have not installed the replacement flywheel that was sent to me yet).:ride:

When I installed a flywhell weight I used a 14" pipe wrench as a f.w. holder ,done it by myself, the teeth of the wrench did not scratch up the outside of the fw either.

DO NOT USED channel lock pliers.

long metal handle strap wrench

or this http://pitposse.com/flpuho.html

What I meant was to apply the pressure from the channel locks to the OUTSIDE or on top of the rubber strap (not directly to the flywheel).

If you can get the strap wrench to keep the flywheel from turning without them, great. If it still spins, you can apply the channel locks ... again to the OUTSIDE of the rubber straps (not directly to the flywheel).

Never apply anything to the flywheel than can damage it. Thought it goes without saying ... but thought I should clarify.:ride:

Like the Pit Posse holder .. of course the "proper tool" is always the way to go (order one if you can afford the wait)

I always use a butterfly impact to put it on. I use a butterfly impact, because it has 9 different adjustments.

** JUST FYI: I bought a trailtech flywheel and it DID NOT WORK with the stock stator (even though the website says it does). They MAY have changed it by now though, or only the first production run had issues. If you look on the box, it will say "lighting flywheel" ... where the stock stator is designed for a "non-lighting" flywheel.

Trail Tech now offers 2 versions of the flywheel, one for lighting and one for non-lighting stators.

Trail Tech now offers 2 versions of the flywheel, one for lighting and one for non-lighting stators.

VERY interesting .... I had to send my back as originally they indicated that the lighting version WOULD work with the stock stator (trust me .. it did not).

Glad to see the problem has been fixed ... likely at mine and a few other people expenses.

Good to see Trailtech step up and make things right by fixing this problem.:ride:

I ended up getting a strap wrench and i was pretty easy to do like that. Thanks for all the help and encouragement. One thing that did happen was the bike was extremely easy to start when we got it One kick and it was on. We did the JD jetting and the flywheel at the same time and it is a lot harder to start now? Have any of you experienced this? Thanks again for all the help.

I ended up getting a strap wrench and i was pretty easy to do like that. Thanks for all the help and encouragement. One thing that did happen was the bike was extremely easy to start when we got it One kick and it was on. We did the JD jetting and the flywheel at the same time and it is a lot harder to start now? Have any of you experienced this? Thanks again for all the help.

Have you had the bike out riding yet??

Make sure the flywheel is going to work for you. If you happened to get one of the FIRST production models, it might not work for you.

Do you remember if the flywheel you recieved says "lighting" OR "non-lighting" on the box??

You want the "non-lighting" one IF your not changing the stator as well. The higher magnetic strength of the lighting version with the stock stator will NOT allow the bike to fire up properly (or run for very long ... 2-5 minutes of riding max).

If you want to use a lighting flywheel, you will need to change the stator to a lighting stator (one that is designed for the higher strength magnets in the flywheel)

If you bought the non-lighting version with the stock stator ... bike should fire up just fine.

Just make sure that your stator and flywheel are the correct ones for eachother.

:ride::ride:

Edited by supervokes

I installed the Trail tech stator and weighted lighted flywheel. Jetting to pilot jet had been changed years ago.

Bike starts obviously easier with weighted fly wheel

Hi we run the full lighting flywheel/stator kit and it does start easier than the stock stuff its so easy you can use your hand to start it up and that's with a 13/1 CP piston in it.Martin.

Hi we run the full lighting flywheel/stator kit and it does start easier than the stock stuff its so easy you can use your hand to start it up and that's with a 13/1 CP piston in it.Martin.

Have you done a compression test lately?

Hi its all good new cp 13/1 piston new ported RHC head its never run or started better,fresh top end for the start of the next Enduro season.Martin.

Edited by martin truszkowski

We bought the flywheel with the lighting stator as a kit. Has anybody had experience with the JD kit causing hard start?

Hi I have run the JD kit in my sons bike from day one,it makes it start and run much better,did it run fine and start good before the flywheel/stator install? if you have fitted a larger pilot jet and not reset your fuel screw (it will need to go in) this will cause hard starting more so when the motor is hot,what pilot jet do you use/have fitted, Martin.

Edited by martin truszkowski

Hi just to let you guys know the trail tech lighting stator kit will work with the stock flywheel but it puts out a little less juice,but its a easy way to drop 11oz of the flywheel weight and still have a lighting output,still got enough power to run a HID head light and charge the battery it just takes a few more revs to get there where the lighting flywheel works just of idle just thought I would pass this on.Martin.:ride:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now