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08 WR250F clutch issue.

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Okay so I looked around on the site and did not find enough on clutch issues specific to my bike and thought I could get the straight goods from guys riding the same or really simialar bikes. Here we go I bought my 08 WR250F used last june. It had 400 kms on it and I had not ridden a bike in about 7 years. I rode the bike a few times and realized the clutch was dragging (not completely allowing the motor and trans to seperate, even with the clutch lever fully engaged (clutch lever had adequate play)), and everytime I would come up to stop or slow down before jumping an obstacle the bike would fumble and stall out. I could not restart the bike unless I put it into neutral. Once the bike was running again I would have to give the motor a quick rev and then a quick shift into gear or again the bike would lunge forward and die. I thought at first it was oil so over a few rides I tried some different synthetic(dealer recommended Amsoil, Kawasaki, mobil 1) oils with no real gains. The clutch dragging was getting worse. I replaced the steels, fibres and springs with oem ones. Everything else inside looked good. Reassmbled and the bike and clutch ran great. After now six months fequent oil changes the same symptoms are back!! Again tried a couple differnet oils and nothing.

I have gotten a lot of advice from a lot of people. Everything from -the rider is riding and slipping the clutch too much(i think I ride with the clutch on or off to shift only), I need to get a wr450 and that would make a difference, I have read all sorts from guys just accepting the fact that their Yamahas eat clutches that they are replacing every few months, to the idea of needing some sort of additive for clooler oil temps, to going to a Rekluse type automatic. ANY and ALL advice will be considered and greatly appreciated. I need help as I can not afford to put a clutch in my bike every 6 months.(sorry for the lengthy intro I thought I should try and get in all the facts)

RYY

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^That's worth a try.

Another thing that won't cost anything is to remove the pressure plate, springs, and all of the plates, wipe them clean with a clean rag, and put it back together.

Worth a shot to see how it works.

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Dragging clutch is normal. Fresh oil reduces the effect. I assume you have about the thickness of a nickel free-play at the lever. Due to heating up during a ride, you may have to adjust mid ride then back again after the bike cools. I put a Magura clutch jack on mine for the this reason as it is self adjusting.

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Thank you all some good things to think about. I do change my oil every other ride so oil freshness shouldn't be a factor. As far as bending the lever or adjusting the cable mid ride. I can not say that has or would help either. I have been adjusting once the dragging starts(after a few kms in the bush) and the dragging is not effected, still stalling in corners, slow downs and tough starting in gear. I have ordered some Barnett clutch steel discs and a set of EBC springs(at my mechanics suggestion) so I will know by tomorrow afternoon if just replacing the steels helps and then I will have to wait a few months to see if the problem is resolved.

What are the chances that after 1200 kms the clutch basket, carrier or the pressure plate are bad?

Thanx

RYY

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New springs and steels will have zero effect on a dragging clutch unless the steels are thinner than stock, the springs stiffer than stock. When you have the clutch pack out, inspect the fingers of the basket and hub.

If you do a lot of hole shots, it is possible you have dented the fingers on the basket causing the plates to hang up but somehow, I do not think you have,

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The new steels have been suggested in case the old ones are warped and the springs for a more positive engagment with less slipping. The clutch works beautifully early in the rides(as long as you get it in gear) and when everythinng starts to warm up more heat in the plates the dragging really gets bad. I will be taking my clutch apart within the hour and will be inspecting the basket and all other clutch components. Thanx

RYY:bonk:

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Dude, there are a lot of thing su can do to it, buy yzf springs they are stiffer, check the clutch basket for teeth,if it does have teeth grind them off with a flat grinder, and another thing drill 15 holes on the inner clutch hub obviously in the sides where there are no holes try doing those things trust me it will help

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The new steels have been suggested in case the old ones are warped and the springs for a more positive engagment with less slipping. The clutch works beautifully early in the rides(as long as you get it in gear) and when everythinng starts to warm up more heat in the plates the dragging really gets bad. I will be taking my clutch apart within the hour and will be inspecting the basket and all other clutch components. Thanx

RYY:bonk:

That sounds like (relatively) normal heat soak causing the corks to swell. If you are doing a lot of clutch slipping due to tight single track, you might want to try changing your final drive a tooth on the CS.

It may be possible, different corks may help though I kind of doubt it.

If the other guy wanted you to buy parts because they might be warped, that is no way to service things. you remove and measure. But based on your description that things are fine when cold says the metal plates are fine.

When hot, the freeplay at the lever is good? Normally, as you ride, you have to adjust it to maintain proper freeplay.

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William1,

To sound exactly like the novice I am what does "CS" stand for as far as changing my final drive a tooth?

I will look into changing just the cork fibres next if these changes do not help but we will see this coming friday.

RYY

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CS = front sprocket; counter shaft, which the front sprocket is attached to.

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What would changing the gear do to help me with my clutch? I was told by another mechanic that the WR250's had basket and pressure plate issues from the factory and if the original owner had a problem with the clutch(similar to my symptoms) the dealerships were covering repairs and labour under a sort of warranty recall type program. Has anyone ever experienced or heard of this?

Thanks

RYY

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The theory is that with a smaller front sprocket, you won't be abusing the clutch as much in the tighter going.

This gives you lower gearing.

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What would changing the gear do to help me with my clutch? I was told by another mechanic that the WR250's had basket and pressure plate issues from the factory and if the original owner had a problem with the clutch(similar to my symptoms) the dealerships were covering repairs and labour under a sort of warranty recall type program. Has anyone ever experienced or heard of this?

Thanks

RYY

Nope, never heard of it. There was a issue (I think) regarding the WR250R's and X's, but that is an entirely different engine.

FYI, my '08 is on the original clutch, I expect it to last longer than the piston or valves.

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William thanks for that. I was hoping my clutch was going to outlast my piston and rigns as well.

RYY

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Try taking off the cover that exposes the clutch .Now operate the clutch manually while observing the movement of the pressure plate . As it loosens its grip on the plates.You might find as I did that the pressure plate moves out nice and evenly for the first half of movement but then seems to go "off" a little for the second half(ie part of the pressure plate remains closer to the plates than the rest ,resulting in dragging) If you find this to be the case let me know and I'll tell you my solution. Remember you must "Always" have free play at the lever.Too little when cold will dissappear when hot and cause the clutch to eventually slip.Mike 08 wr 250

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Dumb idea as I know you are putting fresh oil in every second ride (I do it every third and change the filter every seconf oil change). However, are you putting in the correct amount. As you may well know the bike has an oil resevour and it will not fill when you put the oil in. So put in sufficient oil to fill the eye glass, replace filler cap and start the motor and run for 30 seconds or so. You will notice the window is now empty. Stop the motor and top off untill window is about covered.

I did not do this the first oil change and after about 20 minutes the clutch felt like is was slipping big time. Fortunately the penny dropped and all was well. Just my 2 cents worth Chaps.

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