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01 kx250 $1500

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The tires are about 50%, rear shock rebuilt, new spark plug and wire put on, carburetor cleaned he said I might need to have the carb rejected. Other then that it looks pretty clean. I talked him down from 1800 to 1500. Is this a steal?

I haven't ridden in awhile and am only '5"5 150lbs is a 250 to big?

Thanks guys

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What did you ride before you stopped riding for awhile? The only way to determine if its too big or not is your skill level.

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sounds like a good price. If you have a good amount of experience, you should be able to handle the 250 no problem......but at 150lbs if you haven't ridden much, that bike could eat your lunch before you were able handle it.

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I was rocking a Yamaha big wheel 80cc for a couple years when I was about 10 :ride:

but seriously I've ridden snowmobiles for almost my whole life, I'm 26 now. I know snowmobiles and dirt bikes don't handle identical, but I believe I'll have at least some experience that will transfer over. I"ve always wanted to ride dirt bikes just never had the opportunity until now.

So you guys think I should start out on a 125?

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Snowmobile experience would transfer over to say...Quads a little bit better than bikes. Everything from body position to throttle and clutch control will be brand new to you if the last time you rode was 10 years old.

You can start out on a 250 if you want, just keep in mind its going to be a rough start. If you respect the bike and take it easy you should be alright.

If you do buy it, ask when the last time he checked and greased all the bearings. First thing I would want to do is tear it down and re-grease everything/ replace what needs it. Hold off on mods for a long time.

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the guys said it comes with an after-market exhaust fmf sst head pipe and fmf power core 2 silencer, but don't all the 2001 kx250 come stock with that?

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the guys said it comes with an after-market exhaust fmf sst head pipe and fmf power core 2 silencer, but don't all the 2001 kx250 come stock with that?

:ride: no thats definitely not stock. I don't know how good of condition its in but if it's in decent to good shape thats a good deal.... I agree with venom though snowmobile knowledge would transfer over allot more for 4-wheelers than dirt bikes, So I'd suggest a 125 to start. It would have a bit less bite if you mess up.

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oh ok, well thats a good thing. Ya, I was thinking a 125 might be better to start but I'm going to be doing trail and track and 125's might not be as well suited for trails as a 250. Well since the exhaust isn't stock that makes it an even sweeter deal, I may just offer him $1300 and see what happens. :ride:

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He just emailed me back and said that he "had the weld on the head pipe rewelded. The head pipe had a leak in it straight from fmf but road it a couple times before i realized it was leaking"

what exactly does he mean?

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He just emailed me back and said that he "had the weld on the head pipe rewelded. The head pipe had a leak in it straight from fmf but road it a couple times before i realized it was leaking"

what exactly does he mean?

The pipe was split at one time. No big deal it just had less then normal power when he rode it with a hole in the pipe.

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The pipe was split at one time. No big deal it just had less then normal power when he rode it with a hole in the pipe.

Thanks bro, thats what I thought he meant :ride:

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Keep in mind that wheel, swing arm, linkage, shock, neck bearings and seals will cost you about $200. You do not want to be starting out on a 250 with 50% tires so plan on spending $100 there. Chain and sprockets are another good idea, you may want to change the gearing if you are riding woods. You may also want to think about a flywheel weight to tame the hit a little, especialy if you ride tight muddy areas.

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Keep in mind that wheel, swing arm, linkage, shock, neck bearings and seals will cost you about $200. You do not want to be starting out on a 250 with 50% tires so plan on spending $100 there. Chain and sprockets are another good idea, you may want to change the gearing if you are riding woods. You may also want to think about a flywheel weight to tame the hit a little, especialy if you ride tight muddy areas.

So if I plan on doing the swing arm, linkage, shock, neck bearings and seals + the new back tire I'm looking at around $300. If I offer him $1400 is that still a good deal for me??

Should I wave $1200 bills in his face and see what happens? :ride:

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So if I plan on doing the swing arm, linkage, shock, neck bearings and seals + the new back tire I'm looking at around $300. If I offer him $1400 is that still a good deal for me??

Should I wave $1200 bills in his face and see what happens? :ride:

Wave the 1200 but keep another 200 in you pocket in case he says no.

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Wave the 1200 but keep another 200 in you pocket in case he says no.

So if its a no go, does the 1400 still make it a good deal for me + the cost of maintenance?

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I can't stress enough about frame cracks on these bikes.I've had a 93,95 and 97 the 93 and 95 I had to weld all the time.Check under the steering head where the bottom cradles meet and lay the bike over and check where linkage bolts to the frame.If a bigger experienced guy rode or raced the bike,more than likely it has been welded or there is cracks in it.

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I can't stress enough about frame cracks on these bikes.I've had a 93,95 and 97 the 93 and 95 I had to weld all the time.Check under the steering head where the bottom cradles meet and lay the bike over and check where linkage bolts to the frame.If a bigger experienced guy rode or raced the bike,more than likely it has been welded or there is cracks in it.

Thanks for the heads up, he's about '5"11 210lbs. . . decent size I suppose.

So you thinks there's a good possibility of cracked/re-welded frame?

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So you thinks there's a good possibility of cracked/re-welded frame?

no, thats very rare but just something to briefly look for or ask about. I would say theres a 5% chance its cracked, if that.

and about the bearings, thats also something thats very finicky. some of these these guys race and keep their stuff in tip top shape, even if that means changing stuff thats no where near worn out yet. its not critical that you change them, the bike will still run fine for years and years to come. Ive got an 05 and yet to touch my swingarm bearings, headset bearing, and ive got no problems with them.

if theyre seized, yes change them, otherwise "if it aint broke dont fix it".

hop on it and ride, you will have fun. Tires are a must though. chances are, someone of your caliber will barely notice a sprocket change/ swingarm/headset bearing replacement. are you buying this bike to race and try to get first where every tiny detail and millisecond matters? or do you just want an older, cheaper bike to hop on and trail ride with and have fun without dumping hundreds and thousands into it?

just something to think about... I think these guys have you under the impression that swingarm and linkage bearings make or break a bike and it wont run without them being 100% perfect, not true. theyre pretty insignificant IMO unless theyre completely rusted and seized, then you need to change them. I know lots of people are going to disagree, but youre buying a 01, not a brand new show bike. but its not that old either. dont expect everything to be 100%. even if the bearings are at 80-90% health...some here consider that to be VERY BAD, and wouldnt even glance at a bike with them like that, me personally, have got better things to worry about than changing stuff that doesnt need to be changed. if this bike was a 1980 something that sat behind the bar for the past 15 years, then yes the bearings MIGHT need to be changed, otherwise you wont even notice them IMO.

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I have one. It has been an excellent bike and I wouldnt hesitate to pay that for it assuming it is in decent shape. My only complaint about it is the stock valving on the front fork is very harsh on small stuff.

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