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whats your thoughts on stainless oil filters?

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what are your thoughts on stainless steel oil filters that are reusable?

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how do you clean yours?

very very carefully... you dont want to push any potential metal shavings back into the filter and have them circulate through the engine.

I personally wouldnt clean them, for what theyre worth just buy a new one.

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very very carefully... you dont want to push any potential metal shavings back into the filter and have them circulate through the engine.

I personally wouldnt clean them, for what theyre worth just buy a new one.

I suppose you didn't read the OP properly. SS oil filters are pretty expensive and NOT disposable.

I clean mine with contact cleaner, being careful not to push the shavings into the filter.

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I suppose you didn't read the OP properly. SS oil filters are pretty expensive and NOT disposable.

I clean mine with contact cleaner, being careful not to push the shavings into the filter.

how are they not disposable?

if I remember correctly, a paper one costs 15-20$, and a SS one costs around 40$.

I buy a stainless steel one and use it all year, then just throw it out.. not worth the risk trying to clean it and possibly push shavings in the wrong way. that costs me 40$ a year in oil filters.

OR

you can buy paper ones for 15-20$ each and change them every 15 or so oil changes (I change oil every 3 hours so thats about 45-50 engine hours)

I dunno.. I used to use SS ones but wasnt a fan of cleaning them, call me over paranoid if you want :thumbsup:, I just recently switched to paper ones and will just toss them out.

also, someone correct me if im wrong, but the paper ones catch finer particles whereas the SS ones will let those tiny tiny tiny particles through?

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ive heard a lot about that but paper ones are really weak so whats stopping sharp metal from cutting through it? i know the SS ones filter down to "20 microns" so i wonder what the paper ones filter down to? also what if you simply pour gas on the inside of the filter and let it pick everything up and fall out? then hit it with some good PSI from the air compressor from the inside to the out

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how are they not disposable?

if I remember correctly, a paper one costs 15-20$, and a SS one costs around 40$.

I buy a stainless steel one and use it all year, then just throw it out.. not worth the risk trying to clean it and possibly push shavings in the wrong way. that costs me 40$ a year in oil filters.

OR

you can buy paper ones for 15-20$ each and change them every 15 or so oil changes (I change oil every 3 hours so thats about 45-50 engine hours)

I dunno.. I used to use SS ones but wasnt a fan of cleaning them, call me over paranoid if you want :thumbsup:, I just recently switched to paper ones and will just toss them out.

also, someone correct me if im wrong, but the paper ones catch finer particles whereas the SS ones will let those tiny tiny tiny particles through?

the paper ones are 4-7 dollars.

how ever running a year on a SS filter with out cleaning is running the risk of serior issues.

Cleaning a SS oil filter is easy. you can use contact cleaner and spray to disolve the oil which clings the shavings to the filter. Or you can drop it in carb cleaner and let it soak for 10 minutes. pull the part and then put it in soap/water mix to futher disolve and wash the shavings out.

I generaly spray it again with contact cleaner then blow with compressed air to dry completly. Been doing this for 3 years no issues yet.

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yeah i like the sound of an SS filter, being that the paper filters are $8.50 now (thanks california, the shop raised prices 2 bucks) so after like 5 filter changes it will have paid for itself basically. and it also saves me another trip to the shop that i dont want to take. i hate buying oil and oil filters. if its pr1mal approved then its good enough for me

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ive heard a lot about that but paper ones are really weak so whats stopping sharp metal from cutting through it? i know the SS ones filter down to "20 microns" so i wonder what the paper ones filter down to? also what if you simply pour gas on the inside of the filter and let it pick everything up and fall out? then hit it with some good PSI from the air compressor from the inside to the out

This is how I clean mine. I clean it every 2nd oil change. Never had any problems with it.

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how are they not disposable?

if I remember correctly, a paper one costs 15-20$, and a SS one costs around 40$.

I buy a stainless steel one and use it all year, then just throw it out.. not worth the risk trying to clean it and possibly push shavings in the wrong way. that costs me 40$ a year in oil filters.

OR

you can buy paper ones for 15-20$ each and change them every 15 or so oil changes (I change oil every 3 hours so thats about 45-50 engine hours)

I dunno.. I used to use SS ones but wasnt a fan of cleaning them, call me over paranoid if you want :ride:, I just recently switched to paper ones and will just toss them out.

also, someone correct me if im wrong, but the paper ones catch finer particles whereas the SS ones will let those tiny tiny tiny particles through?

I would not want to buy a used bike from you. Yeah, definitely better to not change the filter for a year than to try and clean it! Sheeeesh! :thumbsup:

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Scott's is the priciest, but it's only one worth it...The other ones similar but half the price are nowhere near the quality and allow small particles to pass through...

Stick with the Scotts and clean it at least every 3 oil changes (I clean mine every oil change)...And I think it's worth it to use the magnetic drain bolts, but not the magnetic oil filter cover...

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They are NOT a good move. Ask any real motor builder.

why do you say that?

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SS Filters are very good. The idea behind them is a true filtering scheme. paper filters can claim a 10 micron filtering but that isn't really true. some holes may be 5 micron and some may be 100. SS is equal throughout. I have one in my diesel truck and my wifes hot rod. Oil pressure it great and cleaning is easy. Spray from inside to out with brake parts cleaner and blow from inside to out with air. Hell even a shopvac reversed can blow it out. just make sure no junk is coming out of the shopvac.

They are NOT a good move. Ask any real motor builder.

Is this REAL enough?

NHRA002.jpg

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I had one, cleaned it by soaking it in gasoline, got about 3 changes with the thing, and the screen seperated from the adhesive holding it together with the top of it. Maybe i wasnt supposed to clean it with gas? The instructions told me 2, either way, im now sticking with paper.

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They are NOT a good move. Ask any real motor builder.

why is that?

a buddy of mine that's a mech. engineer in the aerospace industry did some testing on ss and paper and said that the ss filters more consistantly than paper. he also said the aero industry has been using them for years because of the more consistant filtering characteristics and measurable reliability.

btw, on the cleaning note i pull the gasket, bearing, spring, and set screw out of mine and blast it with brake cleaner then compressed air. works great so far.

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They are NOT a good move. Ask any real motor builder.

Exactly, no engine builder worth his salt runs SS filters. The OEM engineers designed the oiling systems to maintain a certain amount of flow/pressure through the oil filter. The pleated paper OEM filter can catch a lot of junk before it causes any drop in oil pressure. Without doing some very extensive testing, there's no way determine what effect any aftermarket filter will have on the oil pressure. Any oil filter that is more restrictive than the OEM filter risks being blown off the seat and allowing unfiltered oil through the system. Aftermarket filters that are less restrictive risk passing larger contaminants so deviate from OEM filters at your own risk.

Pleated SS filters are used in the aviation field, but the systems are designed around them and it requires an ultrasonic cleaner to clean them properly.

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I have a scotts and love it, just pull the runner grommit out spray with either on a paper towel to catch debris from it and make sure none of them are magnetic. (magnetic means catastrophic failure coming soon to a bike near you). Have yet to have any magnetic yet, mainly just real fine non magnetic.

Then I just let it air dry, and reinstall.

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