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does synthetic run cooler or just brake down slower?

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I am debating switching to synthetic after 22k but there are probably sludge deposits that could be released by the synthetic.

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Say what? Just put the synthetic in and stop propagating the myths.

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Say what? Just put the synthetic in and stop propagating the myths.

Yup... what he said.

Also to answer the question of the post... yest to both. But it doesn't run "cooler"... it Allies better heat transfer. It's up to the radiator to release that heat.

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Dang, if you got 22k out of the motor and its still going strong just keep doing what your doing.

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East Coast, what did you ever decide to do?

BTW, yes there will be sludge build up but you can flush it out!

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East Coast, what did you ever decide to do?

BTW, yes there will be sludge build up but you can flush it out!

how can I flush it out without destroying the engine plugging the oil passages? How do you know there will be sludge? The bike is in storage, I was going to ride it to south america but changed my mind and took a different bike that has no sentimental value (my drz is perfectly setup for my riding style) I would be heartbroken if it was stolen. When I get back I will probly run synthetic diesel oil through it to get a slightly higher OCI. I was changing my oil after every couple desert rides...lol oil change...gas change haha

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East Coast, what did you ever decide to do?

BTW, yes there will be sludge build up but you can flush it out!

u can use that solvent (engine flush) that suckers get done at Jiffy Lube. Its cool to see all the black crap come out of youre engine until it is plugged up and seized tomorrow. If jiffy lube did that to my car I would need to lube my fist with enough top quality synthetic grease to put it up the CEO's ass...YAWWWW!

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how can I flush it out without destroying the engine plugging the oil passages? How do you know there will be sludge? The bike is in storage, I was going to ride it to south america but changed my mind and took a different bike that has no sentimental value (my drz is perfectly setup for my riding style) I would be heartbroken if it was stolen. When I get back I will probly run synthetic diesel oil through it to get a slightly higher OCI. I was changing my oil after every couple desert rides...lol oil change...gas change haha

First off, DO NOT USE WATER!!! That's crazy!!!:thumbsup:

Ok, how do i know there will be sludge? The way conventional oil is made, molecules are separated by weight. What this means is that you will have several different molecules in the oil that weigh the same but some have no properties of being oil. This is the stuff that burns up and creates gunk. Synthetics on the other hand are derived from pure chemicals with nothing in them that doesn't "hold it's own weight". All molecules in synthetics are in there for a reason. No contaminants! When synthetics are run in an engine that has been run with conventional oil, it will slip past the gunk instead of plugging the cracks like conventional will. This leads to burning oil. The way you flush it is by using a high quality engine flush. I have used it on all my vehicles and I can honestly say that it has made a huge difference, especially in my 10 year old DRZ!

I am not a vendor on TT yet so I can not really go into name brands and so forth but soon I plan on becoming one. I have dealt with synthetics for quite sometime and have tons of info for you guys here. I cant wait to become a bigger part of TT but for now i will just be offering help!

The crap they use at places like Jiffy Lube is designed to make money. Period. if it can flush out just enough to have you come back in a few months they will do it! :lol:

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First off, DO NOT USE WATER!!! That's crazy!!!:thumbsup:

Ok, how do i know there will be sludge? The way conventional oil is made, molecules are separated by weight. What this means is that you will have several different molecules in the oil that weigh the same but some have no properties of being oil. This is the stuff that burns up and creates gunk. Synthetics on the other hand are derived from pure chemicals with nothing in them that doesn't "hold it's own weight". All molecules in synthetics are in there for a reason. No contaminants! When synthetics are run in an engine that has been run with conventional oil, it will slip past the gunk instead of plugging the cracks like conventional will. This leads to burning oil. The way you flush it is by using a high quality engine flush. I have used it on all my vehicles and I can honestly say that it has made a huge difference, especially in my 10 year old DRZ!

I am not a vendor on TT yet so I can not really go into name brands and so forth but soon I plan on becoming one. I have dealt with synthetics for quite sometime and have tons of info for you guys here. I cant wait to become a bigger part of TT but for now i will just be offering help!

The crap they use at places like Jiffy Lube is designed to make money. Period. if it can flush out just enough to have you come back in a few months they will do it! :lol:

cool except not too many of the "synthetic oils" on the market are pure synthetic. what part of the engine will most of the sludge be? why do synthetics leak more? do they penetrate the seals more then conventional?

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Well to answer two questions at once, a lot of sludge will be built up around the seals and when synthetic is introduced with out flushing, it will leak through the cracks in the sludge. Also since conventional has a harder time keeping the seals lubricated, they kind of shrivel up and the gunk seals up the area instead of the seal itself. 4ynthetic oil will re lube those seal and cause them to swell and thus exposing cracks in the gunk. This gunk needs to be flushed out! And there is a 100% full synthetic motor oil!!!

I have contacted TT to try to become a vendor. Once I hear back from them, I will be allowed to advertise it but right now I do not want to be blamed for spam.

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Well to answer two questions at once, a lot of sludge will be built up around the seals and when synthetic is introduced with out flushing, it will leak through the cracks in the sludge. Also since conventional has a harder time keeping the seals lubricated, they kind of shrivel up and the gunk seals up the area instead of the seal itself. 4ynthetic oil will re lube those seal and cause them to swell and thus exposing cracks in the gunk. This gunk needs to be flushed out! And there is a 100% full synthetic motor oil!!!

I have contacted TT to try to become a vendor. Once I hear back from them, I will be allowed to advertise it but right now I do not want to be blamed for spam.

cool. thanks well that does it I will spend the $5 or less per oil change car and bike and go synthetic. Rotella or royal purple oil for the bike and walmart synthetic (warren distribution) for the car. Not on my 82' xj750 though that is better off left with conventional. Have you experienced any failures related to youre brand engine flush? I thought all engine flushes were the devil... guess imm wrong. please PM me with the brand. thanks

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is sludge a byproduct of new conventional motor oil or just old conventional that needs to be changed?

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Just change the damn oil already. Most of what you think you know was a product of Mobil Oil's marketing machine back when Mobil one was first introduced.

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Sludge is more like a waste of conventional oil. Since it will contain molecules not suitable for lubricating, these molecules will clup together forming the gunk. It's all in the way the oil is created/produced. Conventional is derived from crude materials when synthetics are made of pure substances desighned for a certain purpose.

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Sludge was only a problem in the diesel motors in German Panzer Tanks during WWII, due to the fact that the prisoners of war who worked at the factories would often intentionally sabotage the machines by putting things like cigarette butts in oil passageways and whatnot with the intention of causing engine failure later on. And half of that's a fact.

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Well, that may have been but conventional oils are known to leave behind deposits in the engine. Conventional oils are better than synthetics in only one area, break in! This should tell you something! Convnetional is suggested for break in because it offers just enough protection to keep things from falling apart completely but not enough to keep the metal from touching. This metal touching is what rubs the gears and set the engine componants into shape (AKA Break In). Synthetics would provide too much protection between componants to allow them to work into place.

The sludge left behind is not the only, or worse, aspect of convnetional oils. AND, conventional is certainly better than NO oil. But I was just trying to show that the flush will help prepare the engine for synthetic, which I have seen work several times! I am not starting any arguements and I am not claiming to know it all. Just trying to help by providing the info that I know and have seen work!

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Oh Christ!

You do know that many high end engines today start their lives with synth, right? And at any rate break-in has nothing to do with East Coast changing the oil on his bike.

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In high end engines, are you speaking of engines created to just hit the road? Race engines? I am speaking of mass production engines that need a break in to form the parts together. Sure, if no break in was required, why ever use conventional? The initial question was about running cooler or just breaking down slower, Conventional allows for the metal to come in contact BECAUSE they break down quicker! When parts rub they create heat! So does it run cooler, somewhat. They disperse heat better and keep high friction (componants rubbing) down to a minimum. Do they break down slower, yes. Higher viscosity and shear strength. So therefore what I was saying did have to do with what he asked. It is hard to understand how the oil last longer or how your engine can stay a bit cooler. Therefore, I offered an example dealing with break in.

East Coast, use a good synthetic oil. If you are concerned with using the flush, then just run the synthetic until you encounter any problems like burning oil (if it ever happens) then you can use the flush to see what the difference is. Good luck!

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