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Yet another Rekluse thread

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I just finished the install of my new Rekluse EXP. I bought the bugger since everyone who has one seems to like it. I don´t know how it works yet since the weather is not for riding this weekend but hopefully i´ll get some saddle time on it next weekend instead.

What i can tell is that the kit looks ,and installs, like a high quality item and that i like.

I´ve only done the "initial break-in" on it and so i rode it in front of my house (sorry neighbors...) ten or so minutes but it seems to work really nice. I can´t wait to get it on the track for a real world test.

The installation was a breeze and thoroughly explained in the instructions.

So - bring on the riding weather. The hell with the snow and ice...:thumbsup:

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Awesome,

I'm at the same point with a z-start pro, I'm curious as to how much difference there is between the pro and EXP. I won't get to ride mine for a month or so, can't wait to hear how yours works out.

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Installed the EXP on a 2008 KTM TR 320 and also on a Berg 390. Very nice. It is easy to forget it is a Rekluce as it feels like a stock clutch. Yes it does free wheel into corners, you just need to shift down and stay on the gas:lol: for an ole man not so easy.........:thumbsup:.

Like the EXP at lot:thumbsup:

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I put the blue springs in to the friction disc to make it "all blue" set up so the clutch kicks in with most bite. Have any of you EXP owners tinkered with the dial-a-gap (more/less) or do you go with the rec. 1turn + 3 marks ?? If so then what does it really do except change the feel/ free gain at the lever?

Edited by VilleKTM

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I got a change to ride with the Rekluse for the first time and it worked perfectly. The hardest part is learning not to use the clutch lever.

The track i was riding on is a deep sand track but it was slippery out there cause of the frozen ground. I didn´t have spiked tires on so throttle control was crucial and the EXP clutch made that part easy. I´ll go to Denmark next weekend and test the clutch on an indoor track so i´ll get to know how it works on closer to "normal" conditions. So far so good though !:thumbsup::thumbsup:

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I got a change to ride with the Rekluse for the first time and it worked perfectly. The hardest part is learning not to use the clutch lever.

The track i was riding on is a deep sand track but it was slippery out there cause of the frozen ground. I didn´t have spiked tires on so throttle control was crucial and the EXP clutch made that part easy. I´ll go to Denmark next weekend and test the clutch on an indoor track so i´ll get to know how it works on closer to "normal" conditions. So far so good though !:banana::thumbsup:

Ville, do you use original clutch cover ?

Milan82b

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I got a change to ride with the Rekluse for the first time and it worked perfectly. The hardest part is learning not to use the clutch lever.

The track i was riding on is a deep sand track but it was slippery out there cause of the frozen ground. I didn´t have spiked tires on so throttle control was crucial and the EXP clutch made that part easy. I´ll go to Denmark next weekend and test the clutch on an indoor track so i´ll get to know how it works on closer to "normal" conditions. So far so good though !:banana::thumbsup:

Ville, do you use original clutch cover ?

Milan82b

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Anyone using a revloc dyna ring and how does it compare to the rekluse.

The Revloc Dyna Ring is not yet available for KTM's, but it does sound promising.

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I'm currently using stock cover over my Z without the thick gasket. I've had a little contact between the clutch and cover but nothing that really concerns me although I will get a rekluse cover as soon as funds are available.

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Of course you can. In case of the EXP there are no balls swirling around the clutch assembly but it uses friction plates just like a normal clutch.

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I put the blue springs in to the friction disc to make it "all blue" set up so the clutch kicks in with most bite. Have any of you EXP owners tinkered with the dial-a-gap (more/less) or do you go with the rec. 1turn + 3 marks ?? If so then what does it really do except change the feel/ free gain at the lever?

INSTALLED GAP OPTIONS

Although Rekluse recommends an installed gap setting 1 full turn + 3 tick marks, there

may be situations where you want to set your installed gap differently. The installed gap

setting represents a trade-off between maintenance required for friction disk wear and

the amount of clutch lever free play gain felt as the engine is revved.

By setting the installed gap smaller, for example 1 turn + 1 tick mark, the clutch has

more room for wear before the installed gap needs to be reset. This reduces

maintenance intervals and provides insurance against clutch plate failure during a long

race situation if the clutch were to overheat and begin to wear rapidly.

The downside to a smaller installed gap is more free play gain at the clutch lever as the

engine is revved. Riding with a finger on the clutch lever, you may notice the clutch

lever moving in and out as the engine goes from idle speed to higher RPMs while riding.

Conversely, by setting the installed gap larger, for example 1 full turn + 5 tick marks, the

clutch has less room for clutch plate wear before the installed gap needs to be reset.

The benefit to this setting is that free play gain is minimized.

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Of course you can. In case of the EXP there are no balls swirling around the clutch assembly but it uses friction plates just like a normal clutch.

Rekluse recommends nonsynthetic oil?!

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Maybe. I didn´t see any recommendation in my EXP manual though. The EXP works with the same principle as the stock clutch and since i´ve always used the Motul Ester Synt i´ll continue to do so.

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INSTALLED GAP OPTIONS

Although Rekluse recommends an installed gap setting 1 full turn + 3 tick marks, there

may be situations where you want to set your installed gap differently. The installed gap

setting represents a trade-off between maintenance required for friction disk wear and

the amount of clutch lever free play gain felt as the engine is revved.

By setting the installed gap smaller, for example 1 turn + 1 tick mark, the clutch has

more room for wear before the installed gap needs to be reset. This reduces

maintenance intervals and provides insurance against clutch plate failure during a long

race situation if the clutch were to overheat and begin to wear rapidly.

The downside to a smaller installed gap is more free play gain at the clutch lever as the

engine is revved. Riding with a finger on the clutch lever, you may notice the clutch

lever moving in and out as the engine goes from idle speed to higher RPMs while riding.

Conversely, by setting the installed gap larger, for example 1 full turn + 5 tick marks, the

clutch has less room for clutch plate wear before the installed gap needs to be reset.

The benefit to this setting is that free play gain is minimized.

Thanks Milan but i´m aware of all that. I want to know (but i may have formed my question little wrong) if there´s any OTHER things ,except the difference in lever feel and , obviously , plate wear , to be felt with different gap settings = less/more clutch slippage, difference in engagement etc.:banana:

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