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Carb over Flow KLX 300-R

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I have a 1999 KLX 300-R and it has modds on it, crankcase mod ,exhaust mod ,gears mod and air box mod. it starts and runs great but when it warms up in about 10 mins it pours out gas out the overflow if i stall the bike i have to shut off the gas and kick it over a couple of times and turn it on and kick it over quick or it'll flood again. if i kill it with the killswitch i can sart it with no problem. i also have a problem when decelerating it backfires sometimes if you guys hear of any other modds let me know and if you can help me it would be great

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yea i think i tried that before to but i think i'm going to try to flip the floats over upside down if i can and bend the tab up so i'll close off the gas earlier i think, could the gas be possilbly "boiling" in the bowl of the carb and expand and over flow or bubble out?

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Did it just start doing this or was this after somebody messed with the carb? If it just started doing it then there is probably something stuck in the float valve seat or the valve is worn out. Otherwise if this started after the carb was opened then the float height is probably way off.

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yea i think i tried that before to but i think i'm going to try to flip the floats over upside down if i can and bend the tab up so i'll close off the gas earlier i think, could the gas be possilbly "boiling" in the bowl of the carb and expand and over flow or bubble out?

This is not the correct way to adjust the float. I doubt it will fit anyway.

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well on the old honda trikes like the big reds you can flip the floats over and it works Better then before and no i bought the bike and it ran great when accelerating in second gear it would lag for a second then pick up like a raped ape and all of a sudden it went away and worked great and then started pouring out the gas

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My 01 did this I bought a new needle valve. Turned out there was a teeny tiny peice of grit keeping the needle valve from closing all the way. Thus causing the carb to overflow. iirc yhe floats go in one way and cannot be put in any other way. I am suspecting the needle valve.

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Mine has had problems with pouring gas out the overflow too even when the bike aint runing.My problem twice now has been an o-ring.I do have a pumper carb so it may be abit diferent but if you take the bowl off where the float is and stuff you take the float off and theres like this tube kinda connected to the float that comes out too and the "sleeve" type of thing where that tube comes out is held in by just a small philips head screw.Unscrew that and pull that sleeve out and on the bottom of it is a small o-ring,ive replaced it twice now and its solved my problems both times.Hope this helps and makes some what sense.

God Bless and JESUS ROCKKSSS

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A carb with an accelerator pump. It injects fuel into the throat when the slide is raised to prevent bogging due to the sudden decrease of air velocity through the throat and the attendant increase in pressure which causes a lean condition.

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whats a pumper carb? my carb operates on a vaccuum style on the slide.

Many of us have replaced the stock carb with a pumper. It gives quicker throttle response.

Ride on

Brewster

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Many of us have replaced the stock carb with a pumper. It gives quicker throttle response.

Ride on

Brewster

Brewster, what's the honest bottom line on the TM33/34 carb? My '06 is fixin' to get a 300 cylinder and piston...and yes, there's a logical reason I'm going that route instead of 351...but that's another story. Anyway, I haven't had a slide needle carbed bike since '92...just CV's...and I've never had a pumper on any of my many bikes over the years. I noticed on Bill Blue's dyno chart with the carb and all the mods that there's a decent gap between his and Bake's with the CV carb. The annoying thing, however, is that Bake's shows to have a stock exhaust...if I'm not mistaken. So from those results it's hard to tell how much difference the carb made to Bill's bike.

I'm toying with idea of getting the TM pumper carb. Most of my riding is done on real singletrack or really rough 2-track...only enough pavement to get me from one spot to another. Is there a notable improvement with the pumper?...any serious cons with it? Oddly, when talking to Bill about the TM on an e-mail, he said I'd have to run the KDX/KLX300 snorkel with the TM. Now I guess he has that setup on his, but surely the carb can be jetted to any configuration...right? I'm running an open top airbox.

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I'd have to see dyno runs with the stock and pumper carbs to know if there is a difference in PEAK power. I do know that the pumper has quicker response. If most of your riding is single track, go with the 33/34mm Mikuni. I've riden my 36mm and a 33mm back to back, and the 33mm felt better in the low to mid rpm range.

Personally, with what I now know, I'd put my $$ into the suspension first and then change the carb. A Dynojet kit for around $55. is a good investment.

Ride on

Brewster

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Thanks. Yeah, I already have all the other mods with a full Muzzy, all airbox mods, and Dynojet kit. You are absolutely right on the suspension. I did the Racetech Gold Valve mods myself to the fork and shock, and it was an amazing transformation.

It sounds like the response advantage on the TM might be worth it for my riding. I'm going to run the CV initially to see how the 300 increase affects the bike. Thanks.

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