top end, no torque wrench?

[rjpjnk]

I use a crows foot extension to get to the base bolts as well.

I tried a 12mm crows foot and there was still not enough room to get around those two troublesome base bolts (2006 yz125).

[kan3]

I tried a 12mm crows foot and there was still not enough room to get around those two troublesome base bolts (2006 yz125).

You can also use a 12mm box wrench with an open end. The open end will fit a 1/2" wrench and the closed end won't slip off the the bolt. It'll also allow you to lower the amount of weight needed to calibrate the wrench since it'll increase the overall length of the torque wrench.

[motoxvet]

Some auto parts stores will let you BORROW a torque wrench - if you put down a deposit, of course. If there was ANY area on a bike that you should use a torque wrench, the top end is it. The guys who say they don't use one obviously have "that feel" and are sucessful. DO you have that feel? Whether you borrow, rent, or buy, get one one way or another.

[DMC707]

I tried a 12mm crows foot and there was still not enough room to get around those two troublesome base bolts (2006 yz125).

Since a crows foot is lengthening the wrench compared to a socket, did you compensate for this with your torque calculation? If not, it will be tighter than spec.

Not that big a deal, it's a dirt bike, not an airplane. (I'm a former aircraft mechanic and am well versed in crows foot protocol--LOL)

OP, you can do it without the torque wrench as long as you don't "Armstrong" everything. Be careful with power valves though. Obviously a proper torque wrench is preferable, but not a deal killer

[rjpjnk]

Since a crows foot is lengthening the wrench compared to a socket, did you compensate for this with your torque calculation? If not, it will be tighter than spec.

I have been wondering about this myself. Would this still apply even if the two wrenches are at right angles? Do the lengths simply add in all orientations? Do you have a mathematical explanation?

[kan3]

I have been wondering about this myself. Would this still apply even if the two wrenches are at right angles? Do the lengths simply add in all orientations? Do you have a mathematical explanation?

If you keep the wrench and extension at right angles then the torque should be the same as the wrench suggests.

[Rodneya]

Cheap torque wrenches are an absolute waste of time. Unless you are willing to buy a top of the range version you are better off going by feel rather than relying on something that could be 20 or 30% out. Using a foot pounds wrench on your motor is also a waste of time.

Good dependable wrenches are made by companies like Snap On, Matco and not craftsmen or Harbour freight and definitely dont cost $25.

[motoxvet]

Regarding inacurate torque wrenches, there is a thread somewhere on TT about how to calibrate a torque wrench. it's really pretty easy. And for most, you don't really calibrate, you just learn the error in the reading and tighten things accordingly.

[rjpjnk]

Cheap torque wrenches are an absolute waste of time. Unless you are willing to buy a top of the range version you are better off going by feel rather than relying on something that could be 20 or 30% out. Using a foot pounds wrench on your motor is also a waste of time.

Good dependable wrenches are made by companies like Snap On, Matco and not craftsmen or Harbour freight and definitely dont cost $25.

Harbor Freight might be out, but I think most people will be fine with a Craftsman foot pounds wrench for stuff in the 15-60 ft pounds range. You can also check your wrench against a known good wrench.

[adam728]

Craftsman torque wrenches aren't terrible. There are a few at work that get yearly calibrations and always seem to be in spec.

I can't in good faith recommend doing a top end without a torque wrench. Proper fastener torque is important, whether it's for the cylinder head, linkage bolts, or front axle. That said, I've also worked in shops and seen many dozens of engines put together without torquing and no problems. Of course, the guys doing it do it were full time mechanics, often doing a few engines per week (among other things), so their wrists were probably calibrated a little better than the average Joe's.

[rjpjnk]

The method in this video seems like a good way to determine how accurate your torque wrench is, but you need to have some heavy objects around that you know the weight of.

There is also a written description here

http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/how-to-calibrate-a-torque-wrench

Edited March 13, 2013 by rjpjnk

[kan3]

My buddy works as a pipe fitter for a living at a company that's contracted solely through Dow. They're required to do weekly calibrations on their wrenches as well as mark almost every bolt they touch. According to him it doesn't matter if you have a $35 wrench or a $350 wrench, they all go off calibration. Apparently, they've had guys with $300-400 snap-ons go off in less than two weeks. His point being is it doesn't matter what you use as long as you calibrate it routinely and if you aren't you're putting your trust in a tool you have no idea about. Me personally, I have a $25 auto zone wrench that's roughly 4% over value and it's 5 years old.

[Family Man]

I've probabley broken more bolts with a torque wrench than without one. You can start to depend on them. However, I'll most likely buy a flex beam torque wrench and double check the head bolts before I run it, reassurance. See how close I am by feel.

[rjpjnk]

Wow, I tested my craftsman torque wrench last night using the calibrated weight and distance method above and it seems I've been under torqueing bolts by 6%. With wrench set to 20 ftlbs it clicks when 18.9 ftlbs is applied.

[shagger]

I did not post here.

This is what I did not post:

If you must ignore the excellent of most of these fine people and not buy a torque wrench because you are going to need one for the rest of your life.

There is a general rule of thumb. Go small steps around the pattern several times slowly adding more force. When the fastener seems to "stop" and the force required to move it further seems to be going logarithmic (spiking). You are there. Go no further.

But even doing this slowly and carefully WILL eventually lead to some sort of failure. I do not recommend it at all and of course this post does not exist. A moderator can feel free to delete it out of hand without offending me in the slightest.

Edited March 14, 2013 by shagger

[Family Man]

Today I purchased a 24 dollar torque wrench from napa auto. I checked me head bolts with the torque wrench I had tigh by feel but that turned out to be 14-15 ft pounds and they should be torqued to 18. The cheap flex beam won't go exactly to 18, it goes to about 17.5 with a mark so I torqued the head bolts to 17.5 in the cross cross patern in the manual. The torque wrench is nice to have, I didn't feel right without it.

[RCannon]

I did not post here.

This is what I did not post:

If you must ignore the excellent of most of these fine people and not buy a torque wrench because you are going to need one for the rest of your life.

There is a general rule of thumb. Go small steps around the pattern several times slowly adding more force. When the fastener seems to "stop" and the force required to move it further seems to be going logarithmic (spiking). You are there. Go no further.

But even doing this slowly and carefully WILL eventually lead to some sort of failure. I do not recommend it at all and of course this post does not exist. A moderator can feel free to delete it out of hand without offending me in the slightest.

Yes, thats a terrible post. I'll have to delete it one of these days.

Because, as all of us torque wrench owners know, we always keep the wrench in our back pocket and would never need a alternate method to do an important job without it.

[shagger]

I've had my colon surgically modified so that I can carry a torque wrench at all times.

Yes. It's that important. ?