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2009 KLX 250 question

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Hello,

I am thinking about purchasing a KLX 250 s, to ride on the street and trails.

I have a couple quesitons. I have riden a stock 2007 KLX 250 and I thought it was under powered. Does the 2009 have more power?

I was told by a local mech. that if i change out the exhaust, re jet, and a high comp piston (10 or 10.5) i would see huge gains? Is this correct?

I like the size of a 250 due to my 5'8" frame but i also tip the scale at 220. My freind says to with a drz 400 but that bike is way tall, even the shorter SM.

I don't need all the power of the drz, but would like to get closer to the drz then the stock 2007 250 klx i rode.

thanks for the help

Craig

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It's practically a must to "uncork" any of these bikes to get decent power out of them from stock. The pipe, airbox mods, and rejet will really liven up the KLX. There are already tons of those mods listed in the pages here to get started. I don't think they need a big bore kit or high comp piston to be enjoyable, but they are quite anemic without the uncorking mods. After you've ridden the uncorked setup for awhile, then you'll be able to tell if you really want to go with a big bore kit. I wouldn't go up on the compression to any great degree as fuel requirements will go up with it. The bigger displacement is designed to mainly produce more torque than horsepower, and it is a nice feature to consider later.

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Hello,

I am thinking about purchasing a KLX 250 s, to ride on the street and trails.

I have a couple quesitons. I have riden a stock 2007 KLX 250 and I thought it was under powered. Does the 2009 have more power?

I was told by a local mech. that if i change out the exhaust, re jet, and a high comp piston (10 or 10.5) i would see huge gains? Is this correct?

I like the size of a 250 due to my 5'8" frame but i also tip the scale at 220. My freind says to with a drz 400 but that bike is way tall, even the shorter SM.

I don't need all the power of the drz, but would like to get closer to the drz then the stock 2007 250 klx i rode.

thanks for the help

Craig

Hi CB1000, this was exactly what I did. I tour a lolt and its usually every 3 months and each is more than 2000miles on my Versys.

I also bought a KLX250, but a 2007/8 model as to me, it looks much more macho, tougher and has more accessories.

To get more power, u will need to :-

1. Change to an aftermarket performance muffler at least.

2. Rejett the carb.

3. Drop 1 t from from front sprocket (soem even drop 1 front and add a few more on the rear.

4. Remove the air box snorkel (I changed mine to a KDX snorkel).

This is at least what u need to do.

There are other mods that can really give u more if u want:-

1. Remove airbox mesh.

2. Drill slide bottom hole.(search more in the forum)

3. Change to Big Bore Kit.

4. Bla bla ...never ending mods,..hehehe

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If you bought new and need to have a 351 then it's not the right bike. Too many other bikes out there for the price of bike + 351bb. Just about all are lighter, more powerful and have great off-road suspension/handling. KLXs are great bikes stock for fire road type DS but are duds for single track. You can make them great for both but $$ will need to be spent. If you're 225lbs then this bike is not for you stock. Suspension work will be a must for any harder riding along with the normal un-corking mods.

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The KLX shines on the single track, with its tight handling and lowe end tractable power delivery.

Its in the open ground/trails where its loses ground to the WR's, KXF's, etc of the world.

The front suspension, I will say, blows on the stocker. u are correct there.

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I have been riding various YZ models, WRs and RMs.

The 2007 KLX I bought shines on any given trail...be it rocky, single tracks or fire roads due to its nimbleness.

The handling is great.

Yes, the shocks are not so good, but after all those good riding in the good old days, and at 50 years old now..doing less jumps....hehehe.....

The KLX 250 seems a sure bet.

The only reason I need a big bore is I jst need more power at times but love the KLX nimblenes....

Anyway...its road legal without much hassle.

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I love the KLX250s we have in the garage but a single track goddess it is not. The bike shines for what it was design for, 50-50 use. Better than a XT225 or the DS250 but not a single tracker. There is a heavy steering and top end feel to the bike for it to be a single tracker. Suspension upgrades will fix this but at a cost most people don't do. The Yamaha’s WR250R is a much better single tracker.

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I've never had any probs on any gnarly single track with my 351. I dunno. It's a great bike if you ask me.

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I love the KLX250s we have in the garage but a single track goddess it is not. The bike shines for what it was design for, 50-50 use. Better than a XT225 or the DS250 but not a single tracker. There is a heavy steering and top end feel to the bike for it to be a single tracker. Suspension upgrades will fix this but at a cost most people don't do. The Yamaha’s WR250R is a much better single tracker.

You know, Dirt Bike magazine wasn't that enamoured with the suspension handling of the WR250R they just tweaked in their March issue. And while magazine stories aren't the do-all-end-all to how good a bike may be, their article is probably a pretty good indication of how most all DS models usually come with weak suspenders...maybe not weak in strength, but lacking in proper damping. I don't think you get some kind of YZ/WR suspension on the WR DS model. Just like the KLX, you get a good starting point. Good, quality damping will require revalving, and it's just an unfortunate fact of life on most of these DS models, so you can add that to the price of either the KLX or WR if you're really looking for performance. I did my '06 KLX with both front and rear Race Tech Gold Valve setups, and it's worth every penny.

I will disagree with your assessment that the KLX is not a good singletracker. It shines in this area, and especially when you apply the revalving that both the WR and KLX really need, it becomes downright impressive. A friend has a WR250R, so I've experienced this bike. It's a great bike, and one that I considered strongly. Finding a nice used and well modded KLX was the only reason that caused me to pass on the WR. I also did a desert trip with some other folks last December, and one guy had a WR250R with a pipe and Power Commander. It ran like a scalded cat, but it points out that just like the KLX, you need to tweak the motor in some manner to get full performance. While installing a pipe, airbox mods, and a Power Commander to WR is a bit easier than a big bore kit on the KLX, the money isn't that much greater, and the torque of a 351 kit on the KLX is a different and pleasant comparison.

There are few contenders for the category of serious 250 dual sport in the vein of the KLX and WR. Yeah, there are some European candidates, but they are not as durable and service interval friendly as the Kaw and Yam. Some will argue that point, but those other bikes are more thoroughbred in nature and require more love over time. Neither the WR or the KLX is ready-to-roll as a serious DS bike for some decent off road use. Useable?...yes. Really effective with serious performance?...no.

The KLX and WR require bigger fuel tanks IMO. They both require suspension work. They both have to be uncorked in the intake and exhaust area. The WR really needs a Power Commander or similar device, and the KLX needs a 300-351 version big bore kit. Neither bike is delivered as a really serious DS bike for a more hardcore dual sport rider. Both bikes have tremendous potential. I would agree that the WR has a slight advantage in its power delivery in bone stock condition, but who wants to leave either of these bikes in their wimpy OEM state?

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Ill keep my KLX over my first bike, any day! 1975 CZ Enduro. Talk about suspension !!!!!

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The KLX250 is a good bike as weantright says, 50-50. It has soft suspension and does not have much power, but is perfect to take you to the end of the world without problems.

Note that if you purchase the jet model is more complicated then make modifications to increase capacity or provide more fuel.

The KLX250 engine is designed with a few years, and current anti-pollution standards make works straight out of the engine produces less than 10 years ago. Come more limited intake and exhaust.

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TNC, you are correct who keeps the bikes stock. However where the stock bike starts (KLX) maybe $1-2,000 lower to a bike with already good/better performance (WR). I have rode many bikes back to back from entry level DS to full race out of the box DS. The WR is a better performing stock than the KLX. Add in the suspension upgrades and you’re at the same price for slightly better ride. 350bb will have more torque but at the cost of $$ over the WR. Two different type of motor at this point. You mention the euro bikes not as durable?? Sure the more performance, the more you will need to care for it but not durable is incorrect. I bet these high performing euro bikes are equal to a 350 BB. If you want drop dead reliability then keep the bike stock. Harder you ride the more work is needed to keep running. I have a euro bike, rode many others and can say jap bikes require more maintenance. For each there own but for me, I will take an euro bike and spend the extra $2500. Because it comes at a higher performance that a mod KLX can not touch. The best DS I have ever ridden was a TM510 (530 maybe). At 2.5x the cost of a KLX most like myself would choked, but the ride was great. You get everything needed to ride from the showroom to the race track and to the grocery store on the way home. Truly a beautiful bike!

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TNC, you are correct who keeps the bikes stock. However where the stock bike starts (KLX) maybe $1-2,000 lower to a bike with already good/better performance (WR). I have rode many bikes back to back from entry level DS to full race out of the box DS. The WR is a better performing stock than the KLX. Add in the suspension upgrades and you’re at the same price for slightly better ride. 350bb will have more torque but at the cost of $$ over the WR. Two different type of motor at this point. You mention the euro bikes not as durable?? Sure the more performance, the more you will need to care for it but not durable is incorrect. I bet these high performing euro bikes are equal to a 350 BB. If you want drop dead reliability then keep the bike stock. Harder you ride the more work is needed to keep running. I have a euro bike, rode many others and can say jap bikes require more maintenance. For each there own but for me, I will take an euro bike and spend the extra $2500. Because it comes at a higher performance that a mod KLX can not touch. The best DS I have ever ridden was a TM510 (530 maybe). At 2.5x the cost of a KLX most like myself would choked, but the ride was great. You get everything needed to ride from the showroom to the race track and to the grocery store on the way home. Truly a beautiful bike!

I'm afraid I have to disagree with you on this one.

Stock, the KLX where I live is $1500 less than the WRR. That $1500 makes all the difference to me because I can buy the BB for $525, Jet Kit for $60, Air Filter for $30, remove the snorkel for free, buy Header and Can for $450, and respring/revalve the suspension for under $350 (if I do the suspension work myself.)

Throw in the Factory Second Clarke 2.7Gal tank for $159.60 (it arrived Friday) and that just about covers every conceivable shortcoming of the KLX.

I could save an additional $200 or more if I were to scour eBay for a KLX300 header and can, versus buying something like the FMF Powerbomb and 2Bros M7 with Quiet Tip.

So for roughly $100 less than the cost of a stock WRR I can have a 351cc KLX with better power delivery, far better suspension, greater range and, in case I went the KLX300 exhaust route versus aftermarket, a far more quiet, and neighbor-friendly bike.

Just my .02

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I too have been looking at the little klx for my wife. There seems to be alot of debate over how good of tail bike this is, maybe this has something to do with where you ride. I think when some says its fast on a single track, that (fast) would be realitive to the rider. I to sometimes think that Iam going fast; until I get smoked by a A class rider. The point is SPEED COST MONEY. Once you start doing serious engine mods you are realy compromising the reliality. If you are skilled rider that needs the suspension revalved and a big bore kit, then just buy a euro. bike and be done with it.

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I too have been looking at the little klx for my wife. There seems to be alot of debate over how good of tail bike this is, maybe this has something to do with where you ride. I think when some says its fast on a single track, that (fast) would be realitive to the rider. I to sometimes think that Iam going fast; until I get smoked by a A class rider. The point is SPEED COST MONEY. Once you start doing serious engine mods you are realy compromising the reliality. If you are skilled rider that needs the suspension revalved and a big bore kit, then just buy a euro. bike and be done with it.

I'd rather spend my money on a Kawasaki or Yamaha than any Euro bike. Personal preference...that's all.

Being a "skilled" rider has absolutely squat to do with having the suspension on the KLX re-worked. Continue your research into the KLX and you'll find that its forks are sprung perfectly for someone who weighs about 120lbs. If you weigh more than that, you must re-work the forks. That's got nothing to do with how skilled you are, but how much you weigh and whether or not you want to ride safely.

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sorry I think the term i used was revalved, not resprung. Not trolling or putting down this bike but how fast you ride should have alot to do with the bike you choose.

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sorry I think the term i used was revalved, not resprung. Not trolling or putting down this bike but how fast you ride should have alot to do with the bike you choose.

+1, This is what I was trying to say. Most faster riders pour money into this bike to make it perform better when a used euro can be bought for the same $$. Many times add-on performance parts make you think big HP gains only to see other shot comings of the bike. MX euro bikes feels heavy and sluggest but DS class it's a different story.

Locally here the KLX are holding strong on price while others are dropping either way the KLXs are good little bikes.

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