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very bored today - going to grease my shock linkage.. how though?

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pretty bored so I figured I may as well check out the rear shock linkage and see how its doing for grease.

how many bearings are in there that need to be greased?

I see one obvious bolt that comes out and there is needle bearings in there, but is there any others that im missing?

do I need to take the swingarm, subframe, or rear shock off? if so... forget about it!

is there a link or "how to" thread anywhere around here?

thanks.

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Here's part of a post that Primal did for us in the KX250F Forum.

Time for rear suspenion components. Yes this is the hardest and annoying and most time consuming. This must be done.

Well remove the rear shock. Let's start. When the shock is removed take it to a bench that's well lit and free of clutter. On the top of the shock is a bearing with spacers. You need to remove the spacers to expose the needle bearing.

Now you're gonna get annoyed here. Get your self a pick. And remove the crappy dried grease out of the bearing. You probably are going to pop a needle out of the bearing. if you do not worry this will allow you to get the grease out. Just it's a pita to get the needles back in and try not to pop many out as you will curse trying to get them back in. Sorry this sucks. I admit it. So you have the old crap out. Let's mix our grease. Mix? *** do I mean? Well pivot bearings are a high stress point and also subject to water abuse and pressure washing. I use a mix of antisize and motorex 2000 grease.

it's a mix of 8:2 of grease to antisieaze.

How ever you can skip the mix on this bearing and a few others if you want. How ever DO NOT Skip the mix on the swingarm bearings. I'll explain later.

So get your grease in and all the needles in and replace the spacers. Shocks done. set it aside

You now need to remove the linkage from the swingarm and frame. I suggest loosening all the nuts before fully removing. Reason is these nuts are redloctited in and require alot of force to brake them loose..

Place the linkage on your table and like the shock clean all needle bearings. Three in the linkage and two in the dog bone. Add your grease/mix and set aside.

Now remove the swing arm.

There are bearings at the end of each side. These bearings are the most abused/neglected bearings on the bike. Most people don't even think about these. But think about it. This point of the bike takes the most stress and work. Plus to replace these bearings are a pita. So why not take extra care of them. This is where mentioned above the grease antisieze mix is crutial. Just do it here and don't blow it off. Trust me three years on my 07 with powerwashing my bearings are perfect with no rust.

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wow I basically need to take the whole bike apart.

thanks anyways, I guess ill just have to find something else to to :thumbsup:

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wow I basically need to take the whole bike apart.

thanks anyways, I guess ill just have to find something else to to :lol:

:ride:

If you just do the linkage and swingarm it's not that bad. Just take off the rear wheel, remove the bolt from the bottom of the rear shock, and the big bolt that goes through the swingarm, frame, and engine. You don't even have to take the subframe or rear fender off.:thumbsup:

Edit: Forgot to say mine is a KX250F

Edited by JamesG1019

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I just got done re-greasing all the swingarm, linkage, and shock bearings on my KDX.. not that big of a deal.

In my case, rear wheel and airbox, the 2 bolts that hold the linkage dogbones, 2 bolts that hold the shock, 1 bolt that mounts the rocker arm to the frame, and 1 big bolt that holds the swingarm, and it's stripped.

Clean, re-grease, and put it back together. Need a torque wrench, coupla ratchets (3/8" & 1/2"), and the correct sockets for everything.

Whole proceedure can be done in an afternoon.:thumbsup:

Edit: Took me a little longer this first time because I had to replace some of the bearings.

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im not really looking forward to doing this either but it needs to be done before the riding season really hits.

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Pulling the rear swing arm is so easy it's a joke. I bought the larger sockets when I got the bike. Rear tire off, I screw to remove the brake line, axle bolt out and out it comes. Take off the 3 bolts from you linkage and it is out. 1 bolt for the rear link, I put the bolts back in the holes as a habit. I rebuilt one set at at time to avoid mixing up the bearings. There is a great thread with pix on here that were perfect step by step for repacking but did not show how to take them off. Do it, they need it. Your suspension can't work well with them dry or sticky. Do you have a manual? you need it to re-torque everything and mine did not require loctite per the manual.

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linkage ... no problem .... swing arm ... no problem .... wheel bearings .... no problem ..... stearing stem ...... well lets say not fun!

if you had a suzuki well at least a dr-z400 you could just hook you greas gun up to the fitting and pump away!

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Step 1: Crack open a beer

Step 2: Do something else

KTM001.jpg

Oh wait, you own a bike made in...Oh. I'm sorry about that :thumbsup:

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Step 1: Crack open a beer

Step 2: Do something else

KTM001.jpg

Oh wait, you own a bike made in...Oh. I'm sorry about that :ride:

sure you dont have a linkage but you do still have swingarm bearings, and dont worry man, linkage is coming to KTM, already on the 350 they are coming out with and im betting soon to follow on the 250 and 450.:thumbsup:

also to santan9, go to RM and check out the videos section i think there was a vid for doing the linkage bearings

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Below copied from burtonx013, in this thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8952860#post8952860

********************************************

Here is a quick write up for how to take apart, clean, and repack linkage, swingarm, and shock bearings. They are mainly needle bearings which can be tricky to work with. This is a 2005 YZ250.

1. Disassemble all parts from bike

2. Get a clean work area

3. You will need; grease (I prefer marine waterproof grease), flathead screwdriver, pointed pick, rubber gloves, and paper towels.

(A good tip for needle bearings, is not to lose one. If you think you lost one, check your gloves. They sometimes stick to the back of your hand or fingers with grease.)

yz250work009.jpg

4. Work on one piece at a time, it will help to keep things organized and clean. (It helps to thoroughly clean the part you are working with before you start in on the bearings.)

yz250work007.jpg

5. Remove the bearing seals from each side, washers, bushing, bushing caps, etc. and clean them all off (The bearing seals are usually pretty tight, but if removed carefully with a flat head screwdriver, you can simply clean them off and reuse them rather than buying new ones.)

yz250work021.jpg

6. Use a pick to remove all needle bearings onto a clean paper towel.

yz250work014.jpg

yz250work015.jpg

7. I usually rub them with another paper towel to clean them off (notice the old grease skid marks)

yz250work017.jpg

yz250work018.jpg

8. Clean out the inner sections where the needle bearings sit.

yz250work020.jpg

9. Repack some new grease inside to stick the needle bearings back in to.

yz250work022.jpg

yz250work024.jpg

10. Put some extra grease around the lip, and put your washers, bushing, seals, etc. back in.

yz250work025.jpg

yz250work026.jpg

11. Grease your thru bolt, and slide it back in until re-assembly.

yz250work028.jpg

12. Repeat same process for: dogbones

yz250work029.jpg

....Swingarm

Keep in mind there are typically 4 bearings to re-grease inside the swingarm. 1 inner and 1 outter in each leg.

yz250work032.jpg

The needle bearings do not come out as they did for the linkage, so you just have to clean them out and repack them.

yz250work031.jpg

However, between a sandwich of washers, there is a small piece that looks like a washer, but actually has a set of needle bearings on it. Clean it good.

yz250work033.jpg

....Shock

There is a pivot bearing in the top of the shock as opposed to needle bearings. Clean it and regrease it.

yz250work037.jpg

yz250work038.jpg

In the bottom of the shock, there are small needle bearings which do come out. They are the most difficult to work with because they are so short in length.

yz250work034.jpg

Put all bushings, seals, and washers etc. back into place, and re-install on your dirt cycle.

Now you can ride happily knowing your rear suspension is greased and less prone to rust and dry seizing.

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rubbing the needle bearings on a paper towel is a terrible way to clean them. Stick them all in a coke bottle with an inch's worth of kerosene, shake well. They come out crystal clean and cleaner than using a friggen towel. Do you know how long it would take to do just the lower shock bearings using a paper towel, sticking to your fingers, trying to rotate them to clean them etc... terrible.

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You need one of these.

LinkageGreaser.jpg

Is that a replacement collar with a grease gun nipple?

Where does the dirty grease come out?

awesome idea, give us more info.

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Is that a replacement collar with a grease gun nipple?

Where does the dirty grease come out?

awesome idea, give us more info.

I got them from the guy that does my suspension stuff, I think he machines them himself.

The idea is; clean it out first, put in some grease to hold the needles in. Then put that greaser in and fill it up completely so that water can't get in. If it's completely packed with grease water and crap won't get in and it will last longer.

Edit: No it's not a replacement collar, it's a machined tube the same size is the bolt. So that you can pack it full with grease and put the bolt back in.

Edited by JamesG1019
Can't read right

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Im a little "concerned" about using anti-seize mixed in with the grease. Anti-Sieze is not and was never meant to be a lubricant for bearings. It has small pieces of material in it to keep threads from seizing. Not sure this is good for bearings which like to be clean.

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rubbing the needle bearings on a paper towel is a terrible way to clean them. Stick them all in a coke bottle with an inch's worth of kerosene, shake well. They come out crystal clean and cleaner than using a friggen towel. Do you know how long it would take to do just the lower shock bearings using a paper towel, sticking to your fingers, trying to rotate them to clean them etc... terrible.

Worked for me. And believe it or not, it was so easy and quick, I even had time to do a write up about how to care for your linkage, shock, and swingarm bearings. I know, crazy.

I wonder how many times people lose needle bearings when fumbling to find something appropriate to dump the kerosene into while trying to seperate the needle bearings from the kerosene while spilling kerosene everywhere.

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I use a funnel and a coke bottle, I have never lost or dropped one ever. Get the bearings out with a pick, they come out in clumps, dump the clumps in the funnel into the bottle. Put the cap on and shake. Take another coke bottle that is empty, put the funnel in it, and pour the kerosene out while holding your thumb on the mouth to trap the bearings but allowing the liquid to escape.

Better, quicker and easier than a paper towel

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the first time I did my susp. bearings I had to spend an hour trying to find a needle bearing. So now I've got a large, shallow rubermaid container I do the work in. Its probably about 2'x3' and maybe 4" tall. I scrape all the bearings into a little gladware cont. with kerosene,gas,carb cleaner,(whatever solvent that happens to be around) swish them around then drop them all onto a shop towel to dry. remember to do all the work inside the container. Another trick I picked up was to just dip my index finger into the grease so you have a heavy coat on your finger. This way you dont need to grease the bearing races, just stab youre greasy finger onto your pile of needles picking up quite a few at a time, and stuff them into the race and viola theyre greased.

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