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IT175 Fork Seal

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Hello all, my son just picked up an 83 it175 runs great no issues, other than the fork seal need replace. The problem i am having is that the allen head bolt on the bottom of the fork thats hooked to the damper is not budging.i have tried pb blaster, heat, and an impact gun the bolt just spins the whole assembly. Any advice before i get my drill out?

thanks

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you have to stick a tool (i used a flat ended crow bar because it was long and had a end that fit) and hold the other end from spinning on the inside.

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on conventional forks i usually just replace the seals the lazy way without taking the forks apart:bonk:

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crybyrnt - did you already take the fork cap off and removed the spring? If so put it back in and put the cap back on. Then use an impact to loosen the lower bolt. The compression spring puts a load on the piston so the whole inner cartridge doesn't spin. With the spring out and cap off you can also have someone pull the upper tube while you pull the lower leg and hit it with an impact. They do the same thing, but I prefer the one man with the compression spring method myself.

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Hello all, my son just picked up an 83 it175 runs great no issues, other than the fork seal need replace. The problem i am having is that the allen head bolt on the bottom of the fork thats hooked to the damper is not budging.i have tried pb blaster, heat, and an impact gun the bolt just spins the whole assembly. Any advice before i get my drill out?

thanks

I wonder if the set up is the same as my 83 XT250. I make a jig to hold the damper from spinning. I hope I'm saying this correctly. After draing the fluids and removing the fork caps I took a long rod(approx. 18") with a bolt attatched at the bottom that holds the damper and prevents it from spinning. Take a look with a flashlight and see it there looks to be something similar in your forks.

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I wonder if the set up is the same as my 83 XT250. I make a jig to hold the damper from spinning. I hope I'm saying this correctly. After draing the fluids and removing the fork caps I took a long rod(approx. 18") with a bolt attatched at the bottom that holds the damper and prevents it from spinning. Take a look with a flashlight and see it there looks to be something similar in your forks.

Yeah that's all the "special tool" really is. I will probably make one now that I bought a welder.

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Dont know about a yammer but on a KDX a 1" square tube will hold the inside from spinning. Gotta be something in the garage that will work.

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Don't mean to thread jack here but are some suggesting that you can remove the fork seals without taking the damping rods out? I don't see how you can get something in there to hold the damping rod still while the upper slider is still on... The fork should still come apart with the rod attached to the lower leg, right? That would make it a lot easier get something in to stop it from spinning.

Another thing you might want to try is remove the drain bolt and put one in there that is long enough to rest on the damping rod and keep it from spinning. It has worked for me in the past.

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On the older yamaha IT-YZ it was common practice to remove the forks seals without removing the tube from the slider.Remove the fork top and remove the fork spring. Fill the tube almost to the top with motor oil and replace fork cap(no spring) remove the clip on top of the fork seal.Use a press or lever to push down on the fork (cap) and the hydraulic pressure with push out the seal....messy but it works.

This method was always recommended in the owners manual that came with the bikes.

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ive tried the oil pressure method and it was too messy for my liking, ive tried draining the fork oil and hooking up an air compressor to the air nipple on air adjustable forks and blowing the seals out, buy my laziest and favorite method is simply running a couple wood screws into the metal portion of the seal and yanking em out. Been doing it for years countless times and its never let me down and damn is it fast.

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