Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Need RSP Bottoming Cone Instructions

Recommended Posts

Have a set of 32mm cones for an 03 WR450. Finally putting these together...been carting these all over the country since late 03...

The guy they belong to started to do them himself way back when...instructions are long gone. I have the cones in the cartridges. My problem is the preload washers/step washers location and the proper length of the spring-guides? He has cut/modified the SG's but something isn't right...they are still too long. The 02/03 has a longer nut than the earlier models and I suspect he modified the guides to the 96-01 spec? I have a set off 99 forks I can steal the shorter nut from which does seem to fit correctly, so that part is not a big deal, but am concerned about where the stepped washer & preload spacers go. On bottoming cone or at top of spring against cap?

Have (8) thick preload spacers. The stepped/stamped washer will center/allow (3) preload spacers. Also have one larger OD washer...I suspect the other has been lost/used for another project.

I think the "stepped washer" goes on the bottoming cone with (3) preload spacers and larger OD washer goes against cap with one preload spacer (if needed) but not sure. That gives about 7mm preload. Also wondering if they use the stock lower spring seat steal ring that is lightly pressed on the CV? The 03 cap also has a plastic ring that snaps into/on the inner lip? Stay or go?

I'll snap some pictures later tonight...

Yo Dave? Finally something I suspect you know...:lol::ride:

:thumbsup:

PS: I stuck a 99 cartridge in a bucket of mineral spirts and stroked it to see how bad the CV leaked...it washed my armpit...not that it didn't need it...:lol::lol:

These forks are now going on his brothers WR400...I need to post some shock stacks for that...maybe another day. The specs I had saved from the internet were waaaaay off from what it actually had.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a picture of the kit from the website. I AM missing one of the large OD washers at lower right of picture...

32mm yamahaa abskit.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Man that's a nice setup there.

So this does away with the dreaded CV??

Lew I've got a set of 04's for parts man if you need anything.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yo Dave? Finally something I suspect you know...:ride::thumbsup:

Well...once again, that degree from Charm School has worked to your advantage.

CONEINSTALL.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks DaveJ! I had all the technical stuff already built just wasn't sure about location of large OD washer & hat style spacer at lower right. Hmmmm? I assembled the cones with the stepped washer in tube "o-ring flange up", worked o-ring down into place, then put the OEM washer in. The cones tightened just before the lip/flange contacted the tube? Without the OEM washer I don't think the o-ring will be compressed/squashed <technical term>? I'll pull it back apart and see... I only read the instructions once back in late 03 and then the owner misplaced them...

Didn't even think to flip the hat style washer over! :ride: I guess you put the preload washers between the large OD washer and hat washer as needed? I had already pressed the OEM spring seats on the cones.

I sent an email to Craig but ain't holding my breath. I've heard he's kinda crabby...:lol: :lol: <pot/kettle> :lol:

What kind of oil height do you start with?

I was going to start at 130mm...I probably won't be around to see how these work...owner is a mechanical engineer, but not very mechanical when it comes to doing this stuff himself...

PS: Dale Carnegie is my idol...:thumbsup::lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks DaveJ! I had all the technical stuff already built just wasn't sure about location of large OD washer & hat style spacer at lower right. Hmmmm? I assembled the cones with the stepped washer in tube "o-ring flange up", worked o-ring down into place, then put the OEM washer in. The cones tightened just before the lip/flange contacted the tube? Without the OEM washer I don't think the o-ring will be compressed/squashed <technical term>? I'll pull it back apart and see... I only read the instructions once back in late 03 and then the owner misplaced them...

Didn't even think to flip the hat style washer over! :lol: I guess you put the preload washers between the large OD washer and hat washer as needed? I had already pressed the OEM spring seats on the cones.

I sent an email to Craig but ain't holding my breath. I've heard he's kinda crabby...:lol: :lol: <pot/kettle> :lol:

What kind of oil height do you start with?

I was going to start at 130mm...I probably won't be around to see how these work...owner is a mechanical engineer, but not very mechanical when it comes to doing this stuff himself...

PS: Dale Carnegie is my idol...:thumbsup::p

130 is too low for these as it won't bath the top of the cone as the piston enters.

At least 120, 110 is better.

By the way, I believe the white plastic spring guide is either cut down or removed. Can't remember. I think it was removed, which is a fair amount of volume. We only ran it as we doubled up on the bottoming effect.

And you may be right about having to run the stock washer. We never used either as we were running the vented plate, which now that I think about it, is as tall as the two combined. :ride:

DBSkit-600x517.jpg

completeassem-600x450.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Spring-guides are shortened and modified to look similar to the 00 up WP open-chamber forks. You definitely have to use the OEM washer with the RSP to equal the height of the CV. I put one of these together a couple years ago...was doing a mock-up and found you had to run both washers or you would hear the RSP washer clunking around when stroking the cartridge to top-out, plus you never felt the o-ring being compressed when tightening the cones.

I set oil level to 130 and it sure appeared to me the cones were covered? I may pull a cap off tomorrow and recheck...they have an extra set of 03 YZF 450 forks they have been using. If I stay in the area I might see if they want to try the Phase 4 deal on the spare set...

To clarify...

"Owner" of RSP kit & WR 450 forks bought a set of 03 YZ450F forks off e-bay before we disassembled the WR forks. That way he had a back-up set, as I suspected it would take a few attempts to get the RSP cone forks to work, he worked out-of-town at the time...he has since adapted a set of DRZ 400 forks to the 03 WR. Also have a spare set of those to put back together...want to build a mid-valve and need some hardware, but I digress...

His brother has the 99 WR400. The 99 steel cartridge rod forks were leaking horribly, cartridge rods had chewed the bushing out of the CV's, so they put the now 'spare' 03 YZ forks on that bike.

So...will have a set of stock 03 YZ450F & DRZ 400 forks gathering dust...

Sent Craig an email but no response...just what I expected...:thumbsup:

Pictures of modified spring-guides and top-hat spring seat/cap washer in place. Had about 3mm negative preload. I added washers to get 6mm preload. The upper cartridge is with the 03 jam-nut, lower 99 jam-nut. I'm certain the SG should have been cut shorter for the 03 nut...that was the main reason I wanted the directions as they had detailed info on trimming the guides.

RSP Bottoming Cone <a href='https://thumpertalk.com/link/click/4471/' rel='nofollow' data-ipsHover-target='https://thumpertalk.com/index.php?app=autolink&module=links&controller=content&id=4471' data-ipsHover target='_blank' rel='noopener' data-autoLink>Yamaha</a> 001r.jpg

RSP Bottoming Cone Yamaha cap installed 3mm negative preload.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
how old are you lew ?

my son just looked at that pic and told me how he would put it together :lol:

The "top-hat washer" deal made we smack myself in the forehead...:thumbsup::lol:

Too many hours sitting in the motel watching cable...my brain is rotting...:ride:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i thought you were gonna ask me if my son was nine years old and called byte :thumbsup:

FWIW you can get 310mm travel out of the 46mm OCs by grinding the end off the chrome tube, diddling with all those washers/ spacers and shortening the spring guides

another way to get rid of the CV is to flip the rod seal, those bottoming cones do look the goods though :ride:

pics of a set 03 yz fork i did

http://www.husaberg.org/gallery/v/Members/bushmechanic/46mm+KYBs/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i thought you were gonna ask me if my son was nine years old and called byte :thumbsup:

HI DAD!

Byte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By hondahondo
      A few picks of my winter project.













    • By Luke Hufford
      Hey guys. I recently purchased a 16 yz250x and the first 2 rides i LOVED the suspension. Then the day before a race i reset all my clickers to stock and everything felt like crap. No plushness at all and deflected off everything. I now have a 5.4 shock spring for my 190 pound weight and dialed in sag. Any recommendations on where i should go from here? Right now the fork is 12 out on comp and 15 out on rebound. Shock is 1.75 turns out on hsc, 14 out on lsc, and 18 out on rebound. Any help would be appreciated!
    • By jake gu
      Today we’re going to be talking a little bit about automotive suspensions and how they work to smoothen the ride of your car. There are mainly three purposes of the automotive suspension system. First, they support the  weight of the vehicle. Second, they maintain accurate tire contact with the ground. And third, they absorb any shock that you get through the road when you hit a bump.
      Most modern vehicles come with an independent front suspension. Which means if one wheel hits a bump it does not disturb the other wheel. Nowadays, people use Coil Spring to support the majority of weight in the car. As it has a really good characteristics for absorbing any bumps as you go up and down on the road.
      However Springs aren’t very good at dissipating that energy. In fact that’s why you have the shock absorber. Which is there to smoothen out the ride and make sure the tire maintains contact with the road.
      In modern passenger vehicles the two most popular suspensions are McPherson strut and double wishbone style of suspension. The main advantage of the McPherson strut suspension is that it’s really cheap and simple that’s why a lot of manufacturers are moving towards this design. The double wishbone design allows the wheel to stay perpendicular to the body as it navigates a corner or as it goes over a bump. And that maintains good tire contact patch no matter where the wheel is situated. Another advantage of this design is that it can be made adjustable where you can control the position of upper control arms ball Joints.
      Click to Know More About Ball Joints and other Suspension Components
×