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Can't adjust bolt to tighten chain

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Hey guys I have a problem. I just bought a 04 ktm 125 and my chain is extremely loose. So I went to adjust those bolts to move the tire back. One side easily adjusts but the other bolt won't budge. I sprayed wd40 on it and really tugged on it. The threads have to be stripped or the bolt or swing arm might be bent. because the other side was easy.

So is there anything I can do? I was thinking about maybe sticking a couple washers or nuts in between the bolt and wheel stopper to increase the length. Will this work?

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the threads arent stripped, atleast not yet. what happens is the bolt rusts in the aluminum then it doesnt want to move. Get some good penetrating oil like pb blaster and soak it down good a few times, then try to move the bolt either tighten it or lossen it and you shoulod be able to get it to move a little. If you can you will just have to work it back and forth and eventually it should become free. once it does put some anti seize on both of then to keep this from happening again. If you break the adjuster off there is a company that sells a oversize bolt and tap kit for this kinda thing.

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I had that problem with a KX125 roach I bought last year. Spray the hell out of it with penetrating lube, then use a breaker bar on the end of your wrench. I actually used an imperial socket on the bolt. Can't remember what size but it was a better fit than the metric version, so there was no way it was going to strip the head.

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Thanks guys. So its not stripped that's good news. I can barely move it maybe 1/8 of a turn each way but its very hard, so I figured it was stripped. I'l try the wd40 a couple more times and if that doesn't get it then I"ll use better stuff.

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how loose is extremely loose

Is this your first ktm because you need to run the chain looser than other bikes because they don't have linkage

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how loose is extremely loose

Is this your first ktm because you need to run the chain looser than other bikes because they don't have linkage

True...but he still needs to be able to adjust the chain.

WD40 is good but I think there are better penetrating oils...

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how loose is extremely loose

Is this your first ktm because you need to run the chain looser than other bikes because they don't have linkage

There is a noticeable clunking noise when I'm switching gears and give it some throttle or starting out.

p><p><img src=[/img]

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True...but he still needs to be able to adjust the chain.

WD40 is good but I think there are better penetrating oils...

Oh I know....was just checking to see if he knew or not so he didn't tighten it too tight

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WD40 is only useful as a cleaner, not a lube or penetrating oil.

PB Blaster is like magic. It has worked on every rusted/stuck bolt on every piece of machinery I've owned.

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I'll try PB Blaster if WD40 doesn't work. So wd40 on the chain and sprocket . . . . . not a good idea?

So many different opinions on the care of an O ring chain..almost as controversial as the dreaded which oil threads :thumbsup: In my opinion if your riding Moto x wd-40 may last long enough, if re-applied between moto's..for trail riding I cant see how it would protect your chain for a 40-100 mile ride.

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Yeah, that's a very loose chain. Some thoughts on freeing that bolt...

1) If it's possible then you need to remove the bolt and clean / replace it. It'll seize again. And again.

2) It moves a bit. That is a good thing. Heat always helps when removing stubborn fasteners - use a heatgun (or if you're careful, a blowtorch) to heat the swingarm where the bolt enters. This will expand the swingarm threads a little and help chase the penetrating oil in.

3) Take the wheel off so that you get better access to the bolt. Use a good quality single hex socket.

4) If the visible portion of the bolt thread looks good then it may be worth screwing the bolt in before trying to get it out. Back and forth, a little at a time. It's possible that the exposed bolt threads inside the swinger are corroded. You may need to take the swinger off so that you can clamp it vertically in a vice. Then gravity will help the penetrating oil to get down there. It may sound like a lot of work, but you really don't want to snap that sucker off. Ok, so you could then get the bolt drilled out and the thread repaired, but for ever there'll be that piece of bolt rattling around in the swinger...

5) If you get the bolt out but toast the threads in the swingarm you'll probably need to get the thread repaired with an insert (helicoil or preferably Timesert) as there may not be room to fit a bigger diameter bolt and locknut. Even if you can put a bigger bolt in then avoid it because it's a pretty ghetto thing to do and may make prospective buyers walk away or haggle harder. If the rest of the bike is in good nick then it's probably worth sinking a few $$$ into getting it fixed right.

Go easy and good luck!

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WD40 is only useful as a cleaner, not a lube or penetrating oil.

PB Blaster is like magic. It has worked on every rusted/stuck bolt on every piece of machinery I've owned.

This stuff must be made of the tears of an angel, it ALWAYS works.

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Good advise here, pb, a little heat if necessary, back out a little, then back in a little, it will help keep you rom destroying the threads

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All good advice, something that has worked for me on many automotive engine blocks and heads, ect. Lightly heat the bolt and then apply regular paraffin wax, the heat will melt and draw the wax in lubing the threads. This has worked for me many times on exhaust manifold bolts which can be very difficult to remove.

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BUY equipment to tap it out before you adjust it! I had this same problem and have kano and about every solvent known to man and the thing wouldn't budge past the 1/2 turn either way and then it just broke off when I tried to make it. I knew that was coming and already had the tap ready to go.............

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Even better then PB Blaster is a stuff called Kroil. It's twice the price, but works better, IMO.

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Do not keep twisting that bolt! I learned the hard way and had to take the swingarm to a machine shop to recover my mistake! Use PB and be very patient!

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There is a noticeable clunking noise when I'm switching gears and give it some throttle or starting out.

p><p><img src=[/img]

Wow.... that's pretty loose. If you can't loosen the bolts you might be able to remove a couple of links :thumbsup:

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