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i was out in my favourite riding area .. infested with hills , rocks , wildlife . sunny day 25 deg C , the birds were singing the sun was shining . my SSW based KLX 470R was driving hard from turn to turn , no rain here for months . the rocky terrain is slippery but i have found a set up with my suspension which gives amazing grip and feel .

as i powered over a rise i felt the front wheel start to drift , 60 klm from home i have a blown out front tire . i carry a can of holts tire repair , so as it started to inflate the tire i noticed all the goo exiting via the rimlock area . and below the valve , it became obvious that the base of the valve and the tube had parted company .

i run michein H/D tubes @ 12 psi , this is the 2nd time it has occured . it seems the tube is moving inside the tire , the valve is straight and the rimlock is sound . both times it has been the front tire .

the ride home is a real heart pumper , on a major highway with trucks , caravans ect . my scotts damper comes into its own , keeping the bars from flapping around .

any ideas on a solution to this ?

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Zip-tie your front tire to the rim? :thumbsup:

(sorry, mate, couldn't help it)

Don't tighten the valvestem nut tight to the rim.

:ride:

Also helps to use a decent amount of talc when installing the tube.

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Tubliss setup! I just ordered mine.:thumbsup:

Also, I have learned from a couple other hard trail riders that if you put your valve stem cover on and tighten the nut up to it instead of the rim, It give the stem a little more room to move when things do shift. Might save a flat and give you the time to notice it's angle and repair before failure.

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i dont tighten up the nut on my tubes for this reason, if tube stem is tight it tears instead of moving slightly, usually comon on rears under hard acceleration with good traction although still common on fronts

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Wow, rimlock, HD tube, nut not tight to the rim, it seems your doing everything right. The only thing I can think of is to try more powder, more air (maybe your gauge is off), crank down on the rim lock more, or try a different tire.

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OK... so what was the failure??? if you tore the valve stem from the tube... the tire moved. Bead locks can wear out... you may want to replace them. (they are cheap. about $8)

if you have a rip in the tube... then you pinched it on a rock. When I lived in SoCal... and was riding in the deserts... I had to run almost 20 psi in the front (21") tire to keep from pinching tubes. The rear tires (18" wheel) I would run about 15 PSI, as it had a taller sidewall. Since you are down in OZ... I would think you need more air. I've never been down there... but all the pictures show dry desert type conditions.

Oh... and my personal opinion of "Fix-a-Flat" is... it's a waste of time. It can only patch up a small hole. when off road... the hole will be large. Then... if you try to use it... when you actually fix the tube... you have to deal with all the goo from the can. Also... I had a can of that cr@p pop in my back pack once. (what a mess) From that point on... I would just ride on the flat. That's what the bead locks are for.

Anyway... let us know what you find.:thumbsup:

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i havent removed the wheel as yet so i will post when i find out what it is . yeah .. more air makes sense the downside is less grip mid turn , anyway i'll take your advice and add a bit more air . the '' fix a flat '' is just an option to have when i dont have any options .

i have ordered a MC6 metzler front , my existing bridgestone is cooked after the wild ride home .

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New bead lock if it's more then a few years old and you find the valve stem area damaged. if it's a pinch flat, stop hitting stuff with the front wheel.. :thumbsup: or use more air pressure.

I run 18 in the front unless in really rocky stuff and going fast... Never had a front tire spin causing tube damage but I have had a few pinch flats, my fault,, I smashed the wheel in to a rock at full speed...

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I dont use the nut on the valve stem I use what honda has on there dirtbikes those black rubber deals instead. That way the valve stem will be sideways a little and you can tell if your beadlock is not tight or slipping. When I change tires I inflate the new tube to 20 psi then tighten the rim lock and go down to 14 psi.

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if your riding to your offroad place i would deffinantly carry an extra 21 inch tube! if you really need too it will fit in the rear too, you can easily stuff one behind the front cowl, you'll never have to worry about long rides home with a flat tire again!:thumbsup:

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I`m going to convert my rims to tubeless....... I got a hold of some aircraft grade sealant...( pro-seal...890...) Got a few projects to go before this....But hoping to do this before spring........:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Erling

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2 beadlocks for sure Directly opposite each other. May need to remove a spoke or drill a hole for #2. And I'm not a fan of Michelin Tubes. Love their tires but first ride on new HD tubes and valve stems in BOTH tires sheared off doing 50 down the road. That got scary fast. I use Bridgestone Ultra Heavy Duty tubes. My Tire guy has seen them actually wear the inside of the tire from rubbing and not fail.

Check for pinch flat which happens often in rocks and tears as well. Lots of talc and loosen the nut on the valve and thats about al you can do.

The only other option is tire balls and they are a pita.

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There is such a narrow range of flat type that fix a flat will work for...I am suprised so many people rely on it is their only means of dealing with a flat in the wilderness.

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