Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

some Questions about my KE 100

Recommended Posts

HI, I am both new to riding, and new to your forum just bought my first bike to learn on (self taught) and figured I cant get into too much trouble on a little 100, its a 2000 with about 830 miles on the clock, and no owners manual, so I had a few questions that I am hoping someone can answer, First what is the best oil to use in the crankcase? and how often should I change it? is there any special maintenance this bike needs at this mileage? and I am very disappointed in the brightness of the headlight, is there any way to upgrade it?

so far I am loving this bike, its pretty quick (to me at least) easy to ride nice and crisp on the gear changes, and smoking fuel millage, there is miles of hard packed dirt trails near my house that I am looking forward to getting on and exploring. Thanks in advance for the help, :thumbsup:

a few pics of the lil green monster

IMG_1391.jpg

IMG_1392.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sweet ride !!!!!

:thumbsup:

Just run any two stroke gearbox oil, probably the cheaper the better in this case.

As far as the headlight goes, being a 6 volt system, there aint much you can do there. Hold it wide open and you will get the brightest headlight possible. Just hold it wide open everywhere !!!!!!!!

:ride:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, and I will hold off on the wide open throttle for a little bit yet, being my first bike and all, and maybe just tape a LED flashlight to my helmet :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just thought of another question, I run marvel mystery oil in with the premix on my chainsaws and they seem to start better since I started doing this, is there any advantage in doing this with the MC? or is it unnecessary?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DO NOT put Mystery oil in with the premix!

First of all, there's a reservoir under the seat for the 2 stroke oil. Use ANYTHING labeled "2 stroke motorcycle oil" not Toro or John Deere lawn equipment oil or Walmart $1.99 qt 2 stroke goo.

For the transmission you can use ATF or 10W-30 or any type of motorcycle transmission oil. Just change it on a regular basis.

My buddy just got the same exact bike. :banana:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DO NOT put Mystery oil in with the premix!

First of all, there's a reservoir under the seat for the 2 stroke oil. Use ANYTHING labeled "2 stroke motorcycle oil" not Toro or John Deere lawn equipment oil or Walmart $1.99 qt 2 stroke goo.

For the transmission you can use ATF or 10W-30 or any type of motorcycle transmission oil. Just change it on a regular basis.

My buddy just got the same exact bike. :banana:

ok big fat no on the MMO gotcha :lol:

it came with a bottle of Castrol synthetic 2 stroke oil and I was just going to stay with that

and I'm sorry but I am unsure what a regular basis is every 100 miles maybe?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
it came with a bottle of Castrol synthetic 2 stroke oil and I was just going to stay with that

Good idea.

Maybe every 200-250mi. I mean you're just cruising and not racing it right? Or you could just do it monthly depending on how much you ride. For my bikes I change the trans oil every 3 rides (about 60-70 mi) or every race, but I'm hard on them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Good idea.

Maybe every 200-250mi. I mean you're just cruising and not racing it right? Or you could just do it monthly depending on how much you ride. For my bikes I change the trans oil every 3 rides (about 60-70 mi) or every race, but I'm hard on them.

yeah this is my first bike and I am just learning, so I'm not racing or jumping or any like that yet, just kinda putting around, I kick it up to 50 on my way to the wash near my house, but all in all im just crusing, and at .6L I dont think I am going to go broke if I change it every month or so :banana:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Since it's got 830 miles on the clock, synchronize the oil injection pump setting. I bet it was never changed from the factory super rich setting. This is supposed to be done at 500 miles and then at 5000 miles. See http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/KEowners/message/66

I also recommend joining that group, there is a huge amount of information from a scant number of members who know these bikes inside and out.

Did anyone tell you how to check the oil? There's a plug on the side that says "oil level" or some such. Pull it, if a very small amount of oil runs out, it's right, if none, it's low and if it gushes, way too much. There's no sight glass or dipstick on this bike.

If you're even thinking you'd ever want to ride on the street, take the MSF safety course first. In fact, I'd recommend it for dirt riding as well there's useful information in that course. But for street riding, it's a wonderful idea. Self taught is a horrible idea for street. I did it only to find out what I was doing wrong and had to unlearn it later.

Keep the kick-stand/clutch lever linkage well greased, they tend to stick.

Double or triple the gasket under the carb cover (right hand side of crank case) it will increase air flow. These gaskets are known to fall apart when removed, so having two also makes it possible to split this cover without ripping the gasket which makes off road riding a bad idea until a replacement is found. It's an ideal location to injest all sorts of sand, gunk and water right where you don't want it.

Enjoy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I rode my partners around a bit yesterday. Fun bike, has a decent sized gap between 1st and 2nd though. I think his needs a new battery, can't run the directionals.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 6V system isn't really good at keeping anything but the headlight on. Do they work when you give it some gas? I'd say our KE100 needs to be around 2,200 RPM or so before the signals work.

I think we're running a 13T front sprocket which helps that 1st to 2nd gap a bit. Some guys run a 12T and larger rear sprocket.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like your battery could spend a few hours on the charger, or maybe it's time for a new one. I think I paid $17 for the last one I bought.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Since it's got 830 miles on the clock, synchronize the oil injection pump setting. I bet it was never changed from the factory super rich setting. This is supposed to be done at 500 miles and then at 5000 miles. See http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/KEowners/message/66

I also recommend joining that group, there is a huge amount of information from a scant number of members who know these bikes inside and out.

Did anyone tell you how to check the oil? There's a plug on the side that says "oil level" or some such. Pull it, if a very small amount of oil runs out, it's right, if none, it's low and if it gushes, way too much. There's no sight glass or dipstick on this bike.

If you're even thinking you'd ever want to ride on the street, take the MSF safety course first. In fact, I'd recommend it for dirt riding as well there's useful information in that course. But for street riding, it's a wonderful idea. Self taught is a horrible idea for street. I did it only to find out what I was doing wrong and had to unlearn it later.

Keep the kick-stand/clutch lever linkage well greased, they tend to stick.

Double or triple the gasket under the carb cover (right hand side of crank case) it will increase air flow. These gaskets are known to fall apart when removed, so having two also makes it possible to split this cover without ripping the gasket which makes off road riding a bad idea until a replacement is found. It's an ideal location to injest all sorts of sand, gunk and water right where you don't want it.

Enjoy.

wow thanks for the info :banana: and no I dont ever plan on really riding it on the street except from my house to the mountains, but I live in a very rural area hardly any traffic at all, I really only got the thing to go play in the desert where my truck wont go.

thanks for the heads up on the oil injector pump I may check that out before I go ride today but it is so nice out it may have to wait till this evening :lol:

I rode my partners around a bit yesterday. Fun bike, has a decent sized gap between 1st and 2nd though. I think his needs a new battery, can't run the directionals.

im having the same problem, been looking around and after I get a new battery im going to try and put relays on all the lights, should help with both the brightness and power consumption.

Sounds like your battery could spend a few hours on the charger, or maybe it's time for a new one. I think I paid $17 for the last one I bought.

yeah tried that, I think I can get one from cycle world for about $13

:banana:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a video I made on my KE.

Things I did was head work, I have went further than the vid with the head, I set the squish band correctly which is WAY WAY off from factory. I also raised the exhaust ports opening height about .25 mm for slightly more rev room.

I would run either ATF or ATF/10-30 motor oil in a 50 50 mixtures, as the clutches need all the help they can get in this bike. Speaking of clutches, I put in stronger clutch springs to help them out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey thanks for everything guys, I checked the injector setting last night and it is lined up just right :banana:

now I do have a question about checking the oil level, yes I did know about the level plug, my question now is, Is the bike supposed to be sitting level, or do they take into account the bike resting on the kickstand? I did change the oil the other day and the case is stamped 0.6L and that is what I put in it (Castrol MTX synthetic) but it does not leak out when the bike is resting on the kick stand.

also something I noticed yesterday, I put about 40 miles on it :lol: and after 10-20 min of riding, and I shut it off for 5-10, its a lot harder to start than it is first thing in the morning, I have to hold the throttle open partially, and kick it 5-6 times to get it to fire, first thing in the morning, I choke it turn the carb up a little bit and it catches on the first or second kick?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

set oil level with the bike balanced perfectly on its wheels, not rested on the stand.

As for the starting. it usually takes a hair amount of throttle when warm. When cold the choke automaticly does this for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Things I did was head work, I have went further than the vid with the head, I set the squish band correctly which is WAY WAY off from factory.
What is the correct squish band? I swapped the copper gasket for... wait for it... a soda can. This made an improvement and was a cheap enough experiment.

Just take the head gasket off, mark the four holes for the bolts, I used a paper-hole punch to punch them out and then used a dremel to clean up the holes, since a normal drill bit will just mangle the thin aluminum.

After the holes are in for the bolts, again using the gasket, I cut the piston bore hole. I think I may have used scissors, but I don't remember exactly what I used.

The copper gasket is 0.50~0.51mm thick. The soda can, IIRC, is 0.06mm thick. I used the copper gasket spray for some extra insurance, so we'll assume it's 0.10mm thick.

This changes the above piston volume by a significant amount and would change the squish clearance by about 0.40 mm smaller.

Did you mill the head, deck the barrel or use a different head gasket?

BTW, if you're handy with a welder and sheet metal or know someone who is, I highly recommend adapting the KX100 pipe to the KE. See http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=787214&page=3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the biggest problem with the KE head is it looks as if it was designed for smaller bore. The squish band's angle follows the taper of the piston's crown but not all the way to the edge of the piston. This isnt a problem when stock cause the head design sucks alltogether, but once you mill the head (or use a thinner gasket) and bring the squish band closer then this becomes a obvious problem.

Its hard to explain but remove your head, measure the outter edge of the squish wear it meets the matting surface and then measure the piston crowns width, you'll see, its off by a large amount.

So I rechambered the head to set the sqiush band to reach the full outter edge of the piston crown, then I milled the head to bring the compression back up and to dual in the squish band clearance.

The the best you can get the clearance with the stock copper gasket is like 0.050". With a thinner gasket you can get the squish band even closer.

On a MX bike with everything tight I usually run the clearance around 0.040". Alot of builders say anything under 0.040" is playing with fire and anything over 0.050" is pointless.

I was fine with only getting 0.050" out of the KE because I know the KE's are kinda sloppy motors. I wouldnt want the piston making contact with the head at high RPM's just cause the squish was tight.

With this head work I expected more top-end. It did gain some top-end over-rev, like it would rev higher but wasnt actually faster up there, just there incase you needed it or didnt want to shift before the next corner. The biggest gain was the mid range, it seems to pull stronger through the mid and feels torquier as it climbs into the mid.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah... yeah, now that you mention it, it does seem to be kinda small in retrospect. But I didn't think to measure it since I just assumed Kawi would have done it right the first time.

Guess not. I'll have to add that to the list of things to do when I get a spare head for that bike. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools to do it myself.

Kudos for questioning the master.

By any chance did you make any changes to the rotary induction? I've been meaning to modify the rotary valve, I've just got too many irons in the fire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By jace kornegay
      I have a problem with my stage 2 exhaust cam on my rmz whenever I kick it over the exhaust cam likes to stop at the lift unless I put it at tdc or kick it really slow it runs fine when it starts and I have played around with the shims right now all the valves are shimed and I have checked the timing everything’s to spec it just gets stuck at the exhuast I’m pretty sure it’s something to do with too much compression I probally will end upbuying stock cams but wanted to see if anyone knows how to fix this first
    • By frontline510
      I recently acquired a 1990 KDX200. The bike runs reasonably well for it's age. The first ride over 30 min the gearbox oil started overflowing into the airbox (overflow hose is routed to airbox). The oil that overflowed and the oil in the gearbox are an odd shade of dark forest green. The oil appeared to be overfilled slightly which explains the overflow. What I don't understand is the weird dark blueish greenish gray color of the oil.  I believe the PO used motul 10w40 ester gearbox oil because he gave me a half used gallon. I use Motul 710 2t oil which is blue, and run green coolant in the radiator. I drained the gearbox oil and there was a nice little clump of dark gray metalic paste on the magnetic drain plug, which should explain the gray hue. What I do not understand is the greenish blue hue. Anyone know what in the heck is going on with this old horse?
      The pic shows a sample of my drained oil. When held up to the light it turns more of a green color. Oil still feels slick as can be.

    • By 2strokeKyle
      I am wondering how a kx125 will do at at Glaims. I am 14 years old 5 foot 4 inches  and 100 pounds. I will have a paddle tyre in the back too. 
       
    • By Snox90
      will a clutch basket from a 98kx250 fit a 96kx250? How about the carb also?
    • By Kaelan Frost
      I have a new cylinder that i bought to rebuild my 1993 kawasaki kx250 with, because the old cylinder was destroyed. The guy said the cylinder is overbored a little but never gave us numbers. The new one i bought came with a piston thats been used and i would like to replace. I believe the piston that came with the cylinder is the correct size, but it very well could be off and i have no way of knowing. So how do i properly measure the cylinder bore, and how do i use this measurement to find what size piston I need to get?
       
      thanks,
      Kaelan
×