Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Add a masterlink??

Recommended Posts

Hey!! I'm putting a 51 tooth rear sprocket on my son's 04 yz 125. It definitely needs a slightly longer chain. I plan on just adding another masterlink and an inner link between the 2 masters. My son is a 13 year old 110 pound beginner.

Go ahead....tell me some horror stories. Seriously,all things considered,this is no big deal right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

People do it all the time, but i wouldn't, chain breaks/1 of the masterlinks come apart could be costly in the end, broken case, wadded chain could lock the back wheel up and throw your son over the bars or be extremely bad be in the whoops or going over a jump

But its all up to you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not Ideal.

But that being said ,, you can do it with no ill effects / danger at all.

In dirttrack we run all kinds of crazey gearing ,, and often change cogs several times a day + the diff chain lengths that go with it.

And yes several gearing combo's i use 2 masterlinks.

No safety issues ( been racing dirttrack since he was 5 1/2 ,, now he's 15) ,, and i would never ever but him at risk at the speeds he's running .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never seen a masterlink come apart, running two of them would probably never have an ill effect.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Umm, quite the opposite...... The weakest part of the chain is the masterlink. Why would someone put two weakspots in a chain?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never broken a chain on a motocross bike. Most chain failures in motocross are because of incorrect tension. I have, however had a chain fail on a street bike, and it did not break at the master link....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had 2 master link's on my bike for over a year now and never had a problem

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've had 2 master link's on my bike for over a year now and never had a problem

Me too. However, I rivited the second master link on (I bought a rivet link by mistake) and it works.

A properly installed second master link seems low risk here so I say do what ever gets you going.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

heck the new master will have less wear then the rest of the chain......just put the retainer clip on right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay....but I noticed that none of you are from California. Everything that is good here gets screwed up and made into something bad by the blind guides who think wisdom consists of making laws against common sense in the name of some misguided,politically correct higher calling. Could this have any effect on the second masterlink? Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Lone Danger
      Ok so I'm looking for opinions from those who have been on yz125s and 150 exc/xcw's and maybe the ktm 200's exc/xcw's. You gotta be out there.
      Here's the deal...I'm 5'7" 165lbs. A couple years back I was looking for a small bike for my wife to learn on and for me to play around with and race. Could only afford one bike. I got a '09 ktm 105 sx. Once I got it sprung for my weight it was great. I have been top five consistently in my local harescrambles B class, believe it or not. Ya, you were not the only ones shocked. And did pretty good in the local mx races as well, junior class up here in Canada. Lack of power was sometimes an issue but I learned to deal with it and just scream, scream, scream!
      However my wife is a complete beginner and she is scared of it. I have since moved her to a 4 stroke.
      Just got a mint '01 yz15 mid summer. Like less than 200 hrs! I have absolutely loved it on the mx track. Suspension is perfect and I love the extra power. I had planned to set it up for woods/mx with a suspension revalve. However, did a harescramble race a month ago that was really technical. Granted I have not done anything to the suspension minus clickers, had too much psi in the tires (13 front and 15 rear) (yes I know that's wonkey, I only had time to get a heavy duty tube in the front and had a stock tube in back. Less psi in the back would have been instant pinch flat because its so rocky) and it was running rich. I had to scream the thing to keep it running and even changed a plug mid race. Well I'm sure you can guess but it was the worst experience I have ever had on a motorcycle. The more open sections I passed a lot of people but the tech sections required way more effort than I liked and the suspension beat the hell out of me!!! Like my knees, wrists, and shoulders were just done. (I was out there for three hours).
      So keep in mind that I just came off a 105sx with suspension mods (set up for woods/mx). I have no problem slipping clutch and shifting precisely, yatta yatta. (I don't think the 105 would have done well here either due to even less power, however...) I've been second guessing fixing this 125 up for woods ever since I rode a friends '09 ktm 250xcw. I rode it on a local mx track. The power was just so effortless and I was absolutely floored by how the suspension worked. I never thought that I could hit the woops that hard and clear every jump on the track on an xcw and feel THAT good! It felt a lot heavier though, and I think the price tag on these things are going to be a stretch.
      So here's my question. I want the lightness of a 125, but want to be able to race both woods and mx. How does a 150 exc/xcw ENGINE compare to an mx 125 engine? I love the 125 engine, but more low end would be usefull in tech areas. But if there is not a huge difference, I will probably just revalve the yz for woods and go tubless, etc. The 150exc's are so expensive and I hardly ever even see one for sale unless its brand new. I don't want the weight of a 200/250/300. I barely touch the ground on a 125....so it has to at least be light. Is it worth waiting for a 150 engine? Thanks guys.
       
       
    • By doolan
      Hi guys I have a 2018 yz250 looking at changing springs front and rear I'm 200 pound ride b class moto.
      Having problems choosing spring weights using the calculators as mx tech say I need .45 fork springs and 5.2 rear but racetech say .48kg forks and 5.8kg rear.
      What are other bigger guys
    • By YamahaYz1
      Hey TT, I know there's endless topics on YZ250/ two stroke tuning in general but I have not been able to find one that helps me get my 09 YZ250 set up for my riding style and where I ride so I'm here asking for help. I got this bike around 1.5 years ago and have not known how to set it up properly. I know no one can give me a perfect set up but I'd like a good starting setup to work from and tweak to perfection. Throughout this time I've had this bike, its always been covering the bottom of the entire silencer and dripping all over the swing arm and rims with oil. Also, the joint between silencer and expansion pipe has oil around it too but I've heard I have to close the gap a little to squeeze the silencer a little tighter and stop the leakage there. I don't have too much experience messing with carbs but I've messed around with previous two strokes and tuned them a little better. I change the oil on my bike after 15-20 hours on it and clean and oil the air filter after almost every ride. The sparkplugs never last me more than a few months but recently have been lasting me no more than a few weeks. With the excess oil from the pipe and spark plug fouling you can see why I need to set my bike up to stop this. 
      The bike:
      Completely stock with V-Force 3 Reeds and a FMF Shorty silencer. 
      Usually running around 32:1 premix with 91 pump fuel because I prefer to keep it well lubricated instead of running rich.
      Riding:
      I ride enduro in Ontario, Canada. So mostly single track and some fire roads but nothing close to MX and not a lot of time wide open. Therefore, probably mostly 1/4-1/2 or 1/4-3/4 throttle range.
      Where I ride:
      Usually 0-500' above sea level. With temperatures ranging from around 15-35 degrees Celsius (55-95 Fahrenheit).
       
      If anyone can give me a setup to go from, that would be very much appreciated. Even multiple set ups for different temperature ranges or any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks and sorry for the long read, I just didn't want to leave anything out. Ask any questions if you have any, too.
    • By Goon Rides
      Hey guys... so I have a problem... I took the bike at Cal City, broke it in, and while I was doing so, the bike was bogging in first gear (Yes, first gear). Also it doesn't idle at all. I have to keep blipping it otherwise it'll stall. So I adjusted the screw circled in image 1. Well I was listening to the sound of the of the bike, yet the rpm's weren't increasing, and it was still stalling. So then, I unscrewed the screw in image 2, well I found out that it was fully twisted to the right. So then, I twisted it to the left, still nothing; it was still stalling... where's the idle screw? I am sure that the screw in image 1 is for the air/fuel mixture screw, and the screw in image 2 is the idle screw, just broken? I don't know, any and every help would be appreciated.


×