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Old DR350 questions

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I rescued a DR350S, claimed to be a '94, from a barn that was being emptied out. To describe it as a basket case might be a charitible, but with a current investment of zero, I've got nothing to lose but time.

The VIN is JS1SK42A8L2101343

The story that came with it, original owner wanted to run the Baja 1000, bought the bike, modified it for the race, finished 35th of 37, then gave up riding. He loaned it to his brother, who trashed it in the sand, and then it was eventually traded as payment on a plumbing bill. 6 or 7 years later, it hasn't been touched. It's a nice story, but it's probably not entirely true.

The wiring is a disaster, it needs to be completely replaced. The control module may, or may not, be OEM. It's a black box, and I didn't notice any part numbers on it. It's also not really connected to the bike...

It was stored without oil in it, no fuel, and the sparkplug removed. The lack of fuel was a good choice, but even with a cylinder full of Marvel Mystery Oil, it won't kick over. I'm supposing that when I remove the head, I'll find the cylinder corroded. The compression release is frozen in the "released" state.

I removed the carb, an Edelbrock QuikSilver (II?) is frozen, but looks like it will clean up. It has "30" cast into the body, but measures 34mm at the outlet. Looking into the intake manifold, I can see rust on the intake valve.

The exhaust is pretty cool though, an old Supertrapp.

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First question, should I start with the wiring, or the frozen engine?

I couldn't find a wiring diagram for it, is there one online if there isn't a manual currently available?

If the engine is overly damaged, are new replacements available (cost?) and what years could I look for for used replacements (cost again?).

Thanks for your help and advice...

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Think youve got your hands full there mate , id say a lot of time and patience required prob best to find out what nick the engine is in first or sell it on to someone who can do restoration im thinking itll cost u megga $$$$$ and it all depends on your skills whether u can save most of the vital parts ???

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Doesn't sound very encouraging. If the engine won't turn over the wiring is moot, right? Most likely the cylinder is rusted, maybe the crank and counterbalancer bearings too (it has caged ball bearings). I think it'll be pretty expensive to make it right - probably more than its worth. Sometimes it is possible to buy a complete engine from a salvage yard or even occasionally on eBay. That might be your best bet or maybe just part it out.

I guess if you're looking for a project, you have one there but if you just want a DR350 to ride, you'd probably be better off buying one in working order.

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Thanks for the advice guys. Fortunately I have a DRZ to ride, if this one ever runs again it will be a pit bike to get the chassis tuner out to the far end of the track at the kart races.

The engine is pretty much junk, I've accepted that. Looking into the cylinder with a boroscope, the cylinder walls are horribly rusted and it's a good bet it looks the same all the way to the crankshaft.

I pulled the carb and intake manifold, the backside of the intake valve is rusted up, pretty badly as well.

I'll disassemble and soak the carb, but I'll get a photo or two first, and then look for a stock one on the used parts shelf at the local race shop.

I did find clymer manuals on Ebay, so that was a stupid question I asked about that, the wiring diagrams posted here are reassuring that it's not that complicated of a system in that aspect.

I expect that this will be one of those long projects that might not get finished, I'm just hoping that more than the crankcase halves are salvageable...

Anyone got a spare engine for it they've be willing to part with? I'm in the Atlanta, Georgia area....

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No pictures of the Edelbrock carb, but I was able to disassemble it. It's a simple float bowl design, with a metering pin at the fuel inlet, that feeds a flat slide and pin in a simple venturi. The interesting thing is that instead of fixed jets, it has an externally adjustable main jet.

The float bowl was literally full of aluminium oxide, the white powder formed as aluminum rusts...

The parts are all soaking now, if the metering pin is still good, the carb is salvegable.

It reminds me a lot of the Dellorto flat slide carbs we use on the Rotax 125cc Kart engines, without all of the pilot jets, float arms, and generally annoying adjustments. It also reminds me of the old Lectron carbs.

I'm really dreading opening the engine up....sortof...

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just take the top end off and if the cylinder is a little corroded just get a block of wood and a hammer and bust it free. I've done it on Volkswagen tons of times.

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