Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

09 450R Hard to Start - Help......

Recommended Posts

Read other threads but still struggling.

Here is the deal:-

42 hours

Valves check and reshimed inlets slightly to spec at 40 hours

Triple checked valve timing using TDC and ignition timing marks etc

It has a PCV with Eddie's Map

Runs beautifully once started and does not stall easily

Hardest to start cold. It takes numerous kicks. If you clear it and kick hard it fires but will not run up. I have to kick (no throttle) listen for firing and then open the throttle a bit to get it to continue to fire....and run. Seems like a clogged air filter but it is clean and oiled with Belray...

Once it is hot it is the same story but just not as difficult.

This is really anoying me as I race cross country here which are dead engine starts.

Anything I have missed?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is your MIL blinking any codes once you get it started? Maybe a bad sensor and/or sensor connection? or bad ground somewhere?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haven't noticed it blinking. I will watch it closely next time I start the bike. Good suggestion thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From cold, are you priming the pump with a few long easy kicks, then pull fast idle, then kick it from up against compression?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I usually pull the fast idle - few easy kicks - then a full stroke on TDC. Is it important to pull the fast idle after the easy kicks?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i had the hardest starting 09 that honda ever built. I remapped the software retarding the igintion at 0 throttle 1000rpm, this helped but was still a pain in the ass. I switched to the 2010 cam and now i have the easiest starting bike made. not tdc needed, just kick it anytime anywhere and it will start. i ride woods with it some. i flipped it upside down today. it sat there for about a minute before i was able to get it up. Rolled to the bottom on the hill and it started first kick. highly recomdended u switch to the 2010 cam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i had the hardest starting 09 that honda ever built. I remapped the software retarding the igintion at 0 throttle 1000rpm, this helped but was still a pain in the ass. I switched to the 2010 cam and now i have the easiest starting bike made. not tdc needed, just kick it anytime anywhere and it will start. i ride woods with it some. i flipped it upside down today. it sat there for about a minute before i was able to get it up. Rolled to the bottom on the hill and it started first kick. highly recomdended u switch to the 2010 cam
How much did the 2010 cam set u back?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

02 CAMSHAFT ASSY.

14100-MEN-A31 (replaces 14100-MEN-A30)

This is what I found on the microfish for an 09? Can you confirm it is the 2010 cam?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi sktmithyexc

Has this problem only started since installing the pcv?

both myself and another mate of mine had similiar issues not long after installing our pcv's. Like you said it starts after a while but if you stall it, we had to wait for them to cool down before they'd start again. Mine had the yoshimura map and the other has the stock i believe but with autotune.Since removing we have had no problems.

Try disconnecting yours first and see how you go

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Come to think of it most of the issues are post PCV. I wonder if it takes extra power from the magneto to fire it up due to the PCV load..... Would make no difference if you had a battery but without one the "kick" has to charge up the fuel pump, ignition and pcv..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Eddie, it is on my wife laptop back home - will need to check. I think it is minus 5% but not certain. It is the 'stock engine' map Jonathon sent.

This starting issue has me baffled... for sure.

I have checked valves, cam timing, new spark plug,....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cold starting is like a clogged airfilter. A sort of bogging then once it finally picks up the motor runs perfectly (much better than stock with Eddie Map on board :banana:).

Edited by SKTMithyEXC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would bet that it's low fuel pressure. This has been well covered, but replace the fuel pump filter in the tank and clean the injector.

This is similar to symptoms I had.

To clean the injector, hook it up to a 9 volt battery (remove from bike first) to get it to flow, then back-flush with carb clean and compressed air.

Then go get one of the in-tank pre-filters from CRF Stuff and that should clear it up for good.

If not, try a new injector. This is all assuming your valve timing is correct.

That could also account for these syptoms. Years ago, I had a '04 Crf 450r that I ran one tooth advanced on the timing chain because it was so stretched it was hard to line up otherwise! It ran, but had no top end whatsoever. Maybe you got it one tooth retarded?

Hope this helps!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did yours run perfectly though?

I have had to remove the filter and clean it before, and at that time the bike had no top end and would cut out. It does not have any of those symptoms but is a *&&^% to start.

I have a CRFstuff filter (from Australia :banana:) and I use a special filtered funnel.

42 hours on a cam chain - hope it is OK - the marks on the ignition and cam line up pretty good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Then I would guess it is you injector. When I took mine out, there is a little "pre-filter" in the mouth of the injector. This was full of "fluff" that looked like belly button lint! Obviously, stuff is getting past the fuel pump filter. But, since using the in-tank pre-filter like you have, no problems!

(knock on wood!)

Try using the "clean-out method" and see what happens.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks will try cleaning the injector first. The 2010 cam is $623.55 here in Australia compared to USD192 for you guys, someone is getting more then their fair share.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 2010 cam was $280 from T & T Motorsports 502-348-4847 in bardstown ky. Some dealers are having trouble finding the part number. Honda was late sending out the info

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By 33KTM350
      I just bought a Magura hydraulic clutch for my 2014 CRF450R.  Bought it thinking install would be easy, and I'm not sure that's the case now that I have the product in my hands.  I have searched the forums, YouTube, etc for install help specifically for my model year (2013 and 2014 are same really), and haven't found anything specific for the 2013-2014 model install at all.  Instructions from Magura are TERRIBLE, and are not specific at all to the Honda - generic instructions - so I'm debating if I want to return the product, cuz I don't want trouble or a big install job.  Question: for the 2013-2014 CRF450R install ONLY of a Magura Hymec hydraulic clutch - other model years are different and thus it won't be helpful for other model years - do you have any tips or feedback?  My concerns are below...
      1.  The 2014 model has a sleeve behind the clutch actuation arm that the Magura clutch slave cylinder fits into.  Stock, the sleeve holds one end of the cable, with a nut on the other end to keep the cable end tight in the sleeve.  The Magura slave cylinder, however, slides into the mounting sleeve  - but does NOT have a nut: the tension from the clutch actuation arm pulling on the metal Magura slave cyl tip end is apparently supposed to keep the Magura slave cylinder tight in the mounting sleeve.  Q: Will the Magura slave fit in to the mounting sleeve easily, stay tight, and is there any adjustment needed in order to keep the 4-6mm of freeplay that Magura recommends?  How easy is it to get the Magura slave fitted into the sleeve and the metal tip in place?  Is there enough freeplay between slave and tip end to mount in actuating arm AND the holding sleeve, so that the holding sleeve doesn't need to be unbolted?  
      2. The stock clutch cable and OEM setup runs out of the mounting sleeve (see pics marked "metal starts", and then runs through a metal sleeve that routes the cable through the engine compartment - keeping the cable away from the hot parts of the engine case, so as not to melt the cable insulation (I believe).  That metal sleeve is about 6-8 inches in length.  The Magura clutch cable, on the other hand, exits the Magura slave cylinder at an angle - yet has no such metal routing.  I don't think the OEM metal routing sleeve will accept the Magura cable either, so a) the OEM metal routing sleeve would have to be removed first before installing the Magura - and then b) you have to hope that the Magura cable can be routed in such a way with zip ties holding the hydraulic line that line will not touch or be close to the hot metal engine casing as you route it through the engine.  Q: how easy was it to get the OEM clutch cable and metal routing sleeve out?  Easy as unscrewing the nut on the other end of the OEM cable, on the other side of the black rubber cable flange in my pics?   
      3.  My stock clutch pull isn't bad.  I just like the feel of a hydro clutch.  Any feedback on how much better feeling and easier pull will be with the Magura?  What's your feedback on the difference?  FYI, I'm leaving my clutch plates and springs stock.    
       




    • By Eric Blasiman
      We have a 2016 CRF450R with about 11 hours out. never ridden hard always check the oil and change when needed along with the air filter. Took care of the recall that was required as well. Well when riding the bike was stalled out. Went to try and kick start the bike again. the kick start lever just back up jamming my knee into the handle bars and some how ended up cracking the case right by where the kick start goes through the case. Has any one had this happen or heard of this happening? What is the cause? 
    • By crfjunky1320
      Any advice on what should be replaced while I have the top end off for a valve replacement. Will do headgasket and springs of course, anything other parts you would recommend while I'm going at it?
       
      Thanks!
    • By Ron Whitfeld
      The dirtbike is on it's forth year right now on the same motor job. I have to jump start it. Is it worth me trading for a 2009 650 brute force with7000 miles? Need some expert advice. Thanks 
    • By Lucas Hansen
      Just wondering what you guys do to remove black marks on your seat. My 08 crf450r has the red/black seat, and after each ride there are some black marks on the red from my riding pants. Not scuff marks, more like patches of black residue from my pants rubbing on the seat. I’ve tried the magic eraser which seemed to do the trick, but lately they seem like they aren’t coming off. Also tried scrubbing bubbles with a brush and no luck. Not too worried cuz I have an spare OEM seat, but I’d like to keep this one nice. Any ideas? Maybe I shouldn’t wear black pants?
×