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Clutch problems

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Hey over the winter i installed a new asv F3 pro model clutch lever. I adjusted the lever so there was 1/4 of play it seemed (hard to tell with this new lever). When i took the bike out for a ride the other day, when i first put it in gear the bike started inching forward with the clutch in so i messed with the knob and got it to not move anymore. When i went riding it seemed fine if i gradually gave it throttle but if i punched it the bike would not really go any faster and it would rev out. I thought maybe i was just spinning the tire so i tried it on pavement and normally if i punch it the front end will pick up but it wouldn't just revs out unless you give it throttle gradually. I messed with the knob turning it both ways but it didn't seem to help.

Any ideas?

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The F3 lever has an adjustment to move the lever itself either farther away or closer to the grip. It's a 10mm nut with an allen screw insde. You need to adjust the lever farther away from the grip and then set your freeplay back into the lever. This way you have freeplay in the cable but still have enough travel on the lever to completely disengage the clutch.

Now for the bad news. Most likely you have fried your clutch and will need to replace the friction and steel plates or the clutch will continue to slip. You also need to change your oil as it will be full of clutch particles.

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I think that bolt is tightened all the way with the most room you can get from the lever and grip, which really isnt to far.

So my clutch is burnt up from just that one ride with the lever not adj properly?

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Yes, it doesn't take much riding with the clutch slipping to glaze the plates. I've tried a lot of different things to "fix" them but nothing seems to work outside of replacement. Be sure to replace the springs too as they are cooked from the heat. You will probably need to change the oil a couple of times at least to get all of the clutch material out of the engine.

Be sure to check the clutch basket and inner hub for grooving. If they are grooved that could be causing the drag issue you describe.

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So i am going to need to order 8 friction plates, 7 steel plates, and 5 new springs?

Can i get it anywhere else cheaper motosport wants $265 for the stock one.

Is there any way that i can tell if its definitely shot?

If i do get a new clutch when i do the free play how can i tell what the play is with the asv lever, the stock one was a lot easier to check.

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Here's an EBC kit:

http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/product/EBC-DRC-DIRT-RACER-CLUTCH-KIT/?prodId=485207&

Here's a Barnett kit:

http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/product/BARNETT-CLUTCH-KIT-W-CARBON-FIBER-FRICTION-PLATES/?prodId=2590468&

I've used both and they work well. From what you have described your clutch is definitely shot. There's always a chance you have another problem but I doubt it.

You should be able to feel the play in the lever and you only need a little.

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Ok which kit was better and lasted longer, I'm not going to lie when i ride at the track i am always on the rev limiter and dragging the clutch around turns and beating it up pretty bad so i don't want a clutch that is just going to burn up. How is that EBC clutch kit? If i was to pay for the Barnett then i might as well get the stock one right?

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I've used a bunch of the EBC's and I would consider them every bit as good as stock and probably better.

I just put a Barnett carbon fiber in a 2009 mod bike I built. It's only got about 8 hours on it and so far seems good. Their claim is that they hold up better to heat and don't put so much material in the oil. I don't have enough time on it yet to judge long term but if their claims are true the Barnett would be a better choice for your riding style and save you some money too.

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Hey how are the Hinson clutch plates and springs? I can get a good deal on those. Are they as good as stock?

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I would put the stock lever on and see how the clutch works , and /or

take the clutch apart to see how it looks before you buy a new set of plates

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