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re-packing help

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i have a '08 wr250. and i'm attempting to repack the exhaust. on my other bikes you remove the end at the mid-pipe union and the screen and everything comes out. well, upon removing the cap the packing came out but not the perforated metal core that the packing goes around. i then pulled the hardware out of the endcap but can't seem to get the cap out. question is do i have to drill the rivets out that are a few 4-6 inches from the end-cap? i'm assuming these support the core around the sparky but am not sure. normally those rivets are just holding different layers of the shell together and removal isn't necessary to re-pack. or do i need to just beat on the thing for awhile until the end-cap comes out with the screen attached.

so, in summation, will removing the 4 hex head screws at the end-cap allow me to pull the core out or do i have to remove the rivets that are 6 inches or so up from the end? thanx

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Should just be the hex head screws. You'll have to hammer with a plastic or rubber hammer/mallet to break the silicone seal to pull the core out. Do you have a stock or after market silencer?

FMF also has videos on their site too.

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Should just be the hex head screws. You'll have to hammer with a plastic or rubber hammer/mallet to break the silicone seal to pull the core out. Do you have a stock or after market silencer?

FMF also has videos on their site too.

it's the stock silencer. the problem is is that i removed the hex screws and got the cap off at the front or mid-pipe end of the silencer but when the cap came off the silencer core is still in there. so i removed the allen head screws at the end-cap end of the pipe but there's no spot to whack it at with a mallet. so even though the hardware is removed from the endcap i can't get it out. aaaargh! i guess i'll drink a beer or 3 and go back to it in a little bit.

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Isn't the core actually supposed to be attached to the pipe. I know on my FMF silencer, when I pull the canister off, the pipe, cap, and core all come out as one piece. I haven't seen a repack on a stock Husky silencer, but I would assume it would be pretty much the same. But I have been known to be wrong every now and again.

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i got it figured out. i had to drill the rivets about 6" in from the endcap. the core and sparky are attached by the rivets. these stock husky pipes are alot more of a pain than the fmf pipes i've repacked, that's for sure.

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