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2010 Backfirre screen?

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Does it do any good to take it out or not?
No idea. The injector is a fair way back from the inlet valves so I assume the EFI bikes can backfire.

I do remember when you had an 06. Wish I had an '10. After last weekend it appears I'll be upgrading my boy's PW50 to a KLX110 before I'll want to get myself another bike. You lucky bastard. :banana:

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I have seen dyno reports that show as much as a 1/2 HP gained. This is an amount you can just hardly feel. I always take my out just because. Don't worry I have not heard of anybody catching on fire.

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I have seen dyno reports that show as much as a 1/2 HP gained. This is an amount you can just hardly feel. I always take my out just because. Don't worry I have not heard of anybody catching on fire.

Last weekend at our desert race on the start someones air filter cought on fire... It was the craziest thing. I had heard that it can happen but never seen it. This was a yamaha but the air filter was "poof" gone, just that quick.

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Last weekend at our desert race on the start someones air filter cought on fire... It was the craziest thing. I had heard that it can happen but never seen it. This was a yamaha but the air filter was "poof" gone, just that quick.
Did it burn up so quick that the seat and airbox had no chance to also catch on fire?

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I have never kept the screen in since I switched to thumpers.

My 2010 has never been started since I framed it for grease and mods.

Some tips on removing the screen. You can remove it without buying any eliminator kits but it is slightly different than my 08 KX was.

First, use care when removing the sensor from the airboot as the bolts are in there with blue locktite. Remove the 8mm nuts from the ring on the outside and the one locator bolt. Then slide the boot out of the box. Now separate the boot from the inner ring (the inner ring has the studs attached to it **notice that the bottoms of those studs have spacers before the threads start**).

There are 2 sticky gaskets that are used to keep it all together. Go easy and work your way around with a flat screw driver and get it all separated removing the screen. Then you can simply stick it back together utilizing those two gaskets.

****Heres the part where you need to be thorough. Since you are putting it back together without the screen you have to keep in mind the spacers on the studs that I mentioned earlier. They are made like that to go through the holes in the screen. If you just tighten the nuts you wont get it tight because the outer ring will hit the spacers: You have to take up that couple off mm. Therefore you have to drill the outer rings holes a tad bit bigger so that those spacers will actually slide through the holes before the nuts get tightened down.

Take a close looka and you will see what I mean. Then put install a Pro Seal.:banana:

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Last weekend at our desert race on the start someones air filter cought on fire... It was the craziest thing. I had heard that it can happen but never seen it. This was a yamaha but the air filter was "poof" gone, just that quick.

Ok, now I have heard of one. I would like to know of the particulars

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Ok, now I have heard of one. I would like to know of the particulars

I had never seen an airbox fire before either, that was, until last month. Local track, kids RMZ250 was sitting in the pits, couple spaces down from us, one of his buddies said, 'hey your seat is smoking'..they quickly undid the seat bolts and wow! Flames about a foot high shooting out. We threw two bottles of water at it and put it out. He'll need a new airbox, filter, possible seat base and at least one side panel.

I've always cut my own screens out or used an eliminator kit, but seeing this make you realize, it can happen.

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I have never kept the screen in since I switched to thumpers.

My 2010 has never been started since I framed it for grease and mods.

Some tips on removing the screen. You can remove it without buying any eliminator kits but it is slightly different than my 08 KX was.

First, use care when removing the sensor from the airboot as the bolts are in there with blue locktite. Remove the 8mm nuts from the ring on the outside and the one locator bolt. Then slide the boot out of the box. Now separate the boot from the inner ring (the inner ring has the studs attached to it **notice that the bottoms of those studs have spacers before the threads start**).

There are 2 sticky gaskets that are used to keep it all together. Go easy and work your way around with a flat screw driver and get it all separated removing the screen. Then you can simply stick it back together utilizing those two gaskets.

****Heres the part where you need to be thorough. Since you are putting it back together without the screen you have to keep in mind the spacers on the studs that I mentioned earlier. They are made like that to go through the holes in the screen. If you just tighten the nuts you wont get it tight because the outer ring will hit the spacers: You have to take up that couple off mm. Therefore you have to drill the outer rings holes a tad bit bigger so that those spacers will actually slide through the holes before the nuts get tightened down.

Take a close looka and you will see what I mean. Then put install a Pro Seal.:banana:

Why not just cut/dremel the screen out from the plastic, replace the plastic ring as a spacer and then you have the original gap?

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I have seen dyno reports that show as much as a 1/2 HP gained. This is an amount you can just hardly feel. I always take my out just because. Don't worry I have not heard of anybody catching on fire.

I think there are just as many dyno reports out there that show no gain at all. My experience is that the bike does not run as good without the backfire screen. My experience is with my 04 290KXF and a friends 06 CR450. Both bikes ran stronger off the bottom end with the screen in place. The jetting was not chenged on either bike, the needles and air screws were adjusted but we never got the bottom end back.

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Why not just cut/dremel the screen out from the plastic, replace the plastic ring as a spacer and then you have the original gap?

That works too. I just figured this is a nice clean method.

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