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Smoked clutch after one ride: Help w/ 02 RM144

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Ok,

I replaced my clutch on my 02 RM144, and rode one time. I noticed that I couldn't get the adjustment at the lever to stay. It would be really loose one minute, so i would adjust the slack out...Then it would be super tight 20 minutes later, so I would add some slack to it. I noticed a weird burning smell while riding and didn't think anything of it until I changed my oil. I tore my clutch apart and some of the plates seem really thinned out already. I pulled them out and made sure the rod/actuator was moving smoothly, which it was. When I put the plates back in and tightened them up I noticed that when I pull in my lever all the plates move until about 1/2 way in on the pull, then only the inner plates move and the outer two or so seem to stay out. Is this because the plates aren't all the right thickness anymore?

I am going to order a new clutch(not the cheap one from motosport), but want to make sure I'm doing everything correctly. Any ideas of a cause for this problem.

Thanks in advance,

Tim

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When you say the adjustment would be tight 20 mins. later do you mean that it had time to cool down? Cheaper clutch kits will have a lot of swell when the are heated and cooled. Is your basket notched? I would recommend oem or ebc clutch kits.

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The basket isn't notched. I'll be getting an ebc clutch this time around. I would ride a few laps, and the adjustment would have no slack in it, so I would put some back in. Then a few laps later, I'd pull off because the adjustment at the lever was super tight. The bike didn't sit for more than a minute or two in between adjustments.

When I pull the lever in, all of the plates in the basket should be moving, right?

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The basket isn't notched. I'll be getting an ebc clutch this time around. I would ride a few laps, and the adjustment would have no slack in it, so I would put some back in. Then a few laps later, I'd pull off because the adjustment at the lever was super tight. The bike didn't sit for more than a minute or two in between adjustments.

When I pull the lever in, all of the plates in the basket should be moving, right?

Did you soak the discs in trans oil before installing them, or did you install them dry?

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Did you soak the discs in trans oil before installing them, or did you install them dry?

They were fully sumberged the night before I installed them. I notice the metal plates look like they have some heat fatigue as they are pretty multi-colored now.

Any other ideas, or just bad luck with a bad clutch?

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What kind of oil were you running?

Yamalube 10W-40. Been running it for a few years with no problems.

EBC clutch kit should be here in a couple of days. There is no specific break in procedure with these clutches that I'm missing right? I've replaced four or five clutches and never had this happen to me yet. Just soak them for a night, install and run? How long should I expect the break in period to be?

-Tim

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I soak my plates for about an hour, and I don't worry about break in. What brand of clutch did you have the problem with?

It was a DRIVEN clutch..The cheapie from motosport. Ordered up an EBC so I'll see how that turns out.

This problem seems like its mostly in the plates themselves though?

-Tim

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try car automatic transmission fluid for your gear box. it works really well. i run it in my bike and its fine and i got the tip off my head of my local Suzuki club.......he rides a 2009 RMZ450 and hes 70. Btw are 144 kits available for my 1997 RM125?

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try car automatic transmission fluid for your gear box. it works really well. i run it in my bike and its fine and i got the tip off my head of my local Suzuki club.......he rides a 2009 RMZ450 and hes 70. Btw are 144 kits available for my 1997 RM125?

I have no complaints with my gearbox oil. It has worked very well for me for the past couple of years, I can't see how all of the sudden it started giving me problems. I have a feeling the cheap clutch just came back to bite me.

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Just because all of the plates dont move out when you disengage the clutch when the bike isnt running doesnt mean anything is wrong with it. What is going to separate them? Magic? When your clutch is spinning about 3000 RPMs then they will separate. Something else is going on here. I alaways used Driven plates in my yz125 and i abused the hell out of my clutch. Take a step back and see whats up, if you dont have a manual then get one because that will help you a ton

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Just because all of the plates dont move out when you disengage the clutch when the bike isnt running doesnt mean anything is wrong with it. What is going to separate them? Magic? When your clutch is spinning about 3000 RPMs then they will separate. Something else is going on here. I alaways used Driven plates in my yz125 and i abused the hell out of my clutch. Take a step back and see whats up, if you dont have a manual then get one because that will help you a ton

Yeah I figured, I was more or less curious about that. The fibers are way too thin already, and the metal plates are very multi-colored which flags heat stress to me. Maybe you just have good luck with these clutches? I ordered the EBC so I'll see how that works out.

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well they did get hot as hell if they are blued and stuff. But it didnt do that because of the clutch, but because it was slipping really badly when the cable would get really tight. I would check where the cable hooks up in the stator area, maybe it has come off and gotten hung up or something

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OK. I have had the same problem with the ebc clutch. Smoked after two rides. I'm beginning to think my basket may be the culprit. I have filed it once already, but does this sound like the basket may be the source of my problem? I'm thinking of scraping up cash for a hinson basket, new clutch cable, and another ebc clutch. Hopefully this should solve my problem.

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OK. I have had the same problem with the ebc clutch. Smoked after two rides. I'm beginning to think my basket may be the culprit. I have filed it once already, but does this sound like the basket may be the source of my problem? I'm thinking of scraping up cash for a hinson basket, new clutch cable, and another ebc clutch. Hopefully this should solve my problem.

wow, you really seem to have a lot of money for your dirt bike, use some of that extra money and buy a manual, and read through the clutch section. I'm betting you missed something there.

LUBE YOUR CABLE! if there is gunk and funk and crap in there... it could stick causing your clutch to be partially engaged and THAT will smoke your clutch... you gotta keep up on normal maintenance.

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wow, you really seem to have a lot of money for your dirt bike, use some of that extra money and buy a manual, and read through the clutch section. I'm betting you missed something there.

LUBE YOUR CABLE! if there is gunk and funk and crap in there... it could stick causing your clutch to be partially engaged and THAT will smoke your clutch... you gotta keep up on normal maintenance.

I don't have too much money to be spending on this bike right now (college), but I would like to get it running correctly. I do lube my cables, this is the original clutch cable from 02, probably time for a new one anyways. The basket was horribly grooved so I took a file to it, but I'm not too sure that is a permanent fix. Everything else seems to be working correctly (actuator arm, rod, and that whole assembly).

Thanks,

Tim

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i would pay very close attention to every step and torque setting on the clutch. Also, go through with confirming the tolerances in your manual. Especially the basket since you already modified it.

Several, including myself, that i ride with use the cheap Tusk clutch sets and have no problems with 50+ hours. This is aggressive A and AA level riders.

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I would just stick with a OEM basket now if they are cheaper than the hinson. I assume since you are in college that you dont have alot of time to ride, so it will last a while. You need to get a new inner hub when you put a new basket in too

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