Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

PW50 kickstart issues

Recommended Posts

My little cousins pw50 has a kickstart problem. when you push it down, it just clicks then comes back up. i took the case off and saw that the swing gear is fine, along with the teeth that connect to the shaft that the clutch is on, but it still just clicks.

What i mean by that is that i when i push the starter down the swing gear moves the gear connected to it, but doesnt turn the motor over.

heres a picture of it, but you cant really see because of the clutch.

pw50003.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

does the clutch spin? It is heavy compared to just tke kick start mechanism. If not sure use a mirror to look behind the clutch housing to see if it spins.

Your problems could be the kick start pinion gear, clutch gear (pressed to clutch shoe mech), or the drive gear. They could be missing, not engaged to their respective shaft like the main gear sits on the crank or the teeth could be broken off. Take off the cylinder head (1/4 turn the each bolt at a time) and see if the piston is moving unless you are sure it stays put. but you will have to follow rotation down to see what is and is not working

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When i push down the kickstart, sometimes it grabs and turns the motor over, but the majority of the time it just clicks and doesnt spin the clutch. I took a closer look under the clutch and can see a little pinion shaft with a metal ring around it, that slides up a little when you begin to push the starter down. its hard for me to desribe it. is there a way to take off the clutch without a clutch removal tool so i can take a picture of what i mean? thanks for helping

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

maybe the clip behind the gear drive came loose or broke.

can you see it or see anything laying in there?

its really a simple set up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well i see the clip. thats what i was referring to in the previous post as the "metal ring." it doesnt appear to be broken or off. i just looked at schematics of the bike, and what the clip is sliding on is the "gear kick pinion"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

pull the clutch off and dig around in there. something is not lining up properly or is not functioning properly. the starter only works off the kickstarter and the gear stack on the inside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok ill try that. when taking off the clutch, do i need any special tools? or do i just take off the circlip? thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it sounds simple, but you have to pull the motor from the frame. once you do, its just on there by a circlip to get the drum off.

inspect all the gears, the clutch gear, primary drive gear, etc... all should turn rather freely with the plug out and no rear end.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

how did u get on with your kickstart?

i had mine apart as it was doing exactly this, the clip wasn't engaging,as it was i think a bit bent. so i turned the clip round and now its turning the motor over, but the kickstart isnt returning. i've got on order a new clip and new guide spring.

what is the most common thing to break on the kickstart?

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

anytime you have parts that can stress, especially springs, they will be the first to go.

hard gears are not usually the problems unless something comes loose and the teeth get chewed up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

have anyone does this job before? seems like im having the same problem as the guy who made the thread.

when i took the case off the bike the spring popped out to meet me, so im having problems seating that.

does anybody know of any manuals that would show me what to do ect

thank u

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
have anyone does this job before? seems like im having the same problem as the guy who made the thread.

when i took the case off the bike the spring popped out to meet me, so im having problems seating that.

does anybody know of any manuals that would show me what to do ect

thank u

I have a manual at the house. you can buy one at any dealer for $20. well worth the investment for any maintenance you do on these bikes. it pays for itself the first time you dont have to take it into the dealer.

the plastic piece with the spring should be secured when taking the clutch off, or it will slide off and you will have to re-tention it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok well i know its been months since i had this problem, but i still have not figured it out. the gears seem fine but the one right above the clip i cant get off. how do i get it off to inspect the clip and other parts of the gear?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my guess is that is why, those should float and only be held by retaining ring "circlip". That last gear needs to be able to engage and disengage when kicking. The only thing pressed onto that shaft is the bearing which sits back into the recessed transmission. Take it out, just remove the bearing retaining plate and tug on the shaft. The whole assembly will pop out. Take a pic and show us exactly what is stuck. Use a bearing puller to see if you can get it unstuck and slide it off. I would suggest contacting pw50parts.com and talk to Lee (not the correct spelling but that is how it sounds) and he will give you an even better deal then on his website espesially if you buy more than one thing. My last purchase I bought the same shaft, broke it trying to remove the bearing (doesn't work) and got all 4 cables throttle choke & both break cables for 50 and the fuel petcock for $5 for buying all the cables. He is hard to beat. Post some pics either way, and I agree go on ebay and buy the manual for $20

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok i was able to get everything out. i dont think there is a problem with the bearing. i just couldnt get it out because i left the main semi-circle kick gear in. lol. but here are the pictures:061.jpg

this one shows the clip were it was when i took the bike apart. then next one shows were it appears the clip should go. please tell me where it should go!

062.jpg

i tried t oget a clear picture of the clip and gear but it was impossible to get a clear shot. but it appeared fine. no cracks or breaks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes that is the correct placement of the clip (in that channel... try partial reassembly to see if it locks when kicked), that could be your trouble. Keep us posted

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

awesome! i put it in its place and assembled it somewhat and it fuctions properly now. but my only concern is that it will hop back over again. when i pull the starter down the clip slides almost up to the top of that little channel. should i go ahead and buy a new clip just in case?

and some other concerns are that the clutch pads are mildly rusted along with the outside of the basket. its not terrible but i want to make sure thats ok.

and my final question is regarding the spring. How to you go about retensioning it? thanks for helping me out man. i appreciate it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
awesome! i put it in its place and assembled it somewhat and it fuctions properly now. but my only concern is that it will hop back over again. when i pull the starter down the clip slides almost up to the top of that little channel. should i go ahead and buy a new clip just in case?

and some other concerns are that the clutch pads are mildly rusted along with the outside of the basket. its not terrible but i want to make sure thats ok.

and my final question is regarding the spring. How to you go about retensioning it? thanks for helping me out man. i appreciate it!

(Your photos on page 1)

Take the spring off and lay it on something flat to make sure it is not bent. if not I would not worry about it since access to the right side is easy (pinion bolt at the front and two rear spring bolts, there is enough cable play that you can pull the engine out enough to remove all the screw on the clutch cover) so I would use unless it gives you trouble.

clean it off but as long as the friction material is above .7mm you should be fine. I would be more concerned about rust braking off and gouging bearings or critical surfaces... just clean it off. Post a pic if it merits it.

well you can see in the pics you posted where the the "hook" portion of the spring goes. At the bottom the spring sticks out (towards the engine not you) that goes in the hole which you can see on the next posted photo. Basically you "thead" it in there and take the "hook" rolling the assemly clock wise giving it tension until you can "hook" it on the protruding part of the case. Again look at first photo.

No problem, I just finished my son's so everything is still pretty fresh:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By fudgypup
      Garrett Poucher and Skyler Howes of Garrett Offroad Racing are headed to Dakar!  These US privateers are headed there for their first times but Skyler is fresh off a victory at last week's Baja Rally, won the Sonora Rally in March and this team placed third in the Baja 1000.

      They have a fundraising link set up and could use your help.
      I raced with Garrett at Baja Rally last year and then both of them at Sonora and was honored to pit with them as well.  They're both super guys and work their assess off.  I think they both have good chances of not only finishing the 11 days of Dakar but placing well.
      They're doing some rally training events this Sat, Oct 20 in Santa Clarita, CA and then another Oct 28th in St. George Utah so if you've ever considered learning rally raid navigation, this is your chance!  It's a lot of fun too.  More info on that at the link.
    • By wpp1000
      Whenever I start my ttr230 I have to have no choke, or very little. If It has some choke even when cold it will rev up a small bit then die off. What could the cause be? I have the 38 and 130 jets in it. does this mean it is running lean or rich, or something completely different. The bike still runs perfectly it just takes a little bit to get it started.
    • By Big64N
      Good condition with a long list of high end upgrade parts.
      Rekluse EXP 3.0 with cover and slave
      EVO- Ellensburg suspension tuning for 6' 200# expert rider
      Fork bleeders
      Trail-tech map switch
      Moose 1-1/8 flex bar
      CYCRA probend bar guards
      SXS skid plate with linkage plate
      Clutch and water pump guards
      Frame guards
      Fastway Evolution III pegs
      SRT Pro Armor radiator and rear rotor guards
      Acerbic Front rotor guard
      TM designs chain guides
      DID race chain
      Renthal sprockets
      Gripper seat
      FMF F-bomb header
      Dirt Tricks timing chain tensioner
      Pro Wheel, wheels
      Tubliss front and rear
      New top end and valve adjustment 60 hours old
      Many more aftermarket parts as well as spare parts and service manuals included in the sale.  Willing to include 4 sets of tires with 80% tread left for full price.
      Great bike with plenty of life left and set up for anything from single track woods to wide open dessert.
      Can hang with any of the 450's but is much easier to handle in the tight woods.
      Priced to sell at $6000.00 
      Willing to consider reasonable offers but no trades or carry.
    • By dank08
      I am selling my 2001 yz426f(As is), I bought it used from private seller back in 2011.  I rarely used it at first, playing around in dirt areas and local OHV trails.  I began using it for bigger trail rides like Gorman in Hungry valley.  I hated the manual decompression. In 2015 I bought Hotcams stage 1 intake and exhaust cams for the auto decompression.  I had Motorcycle Tech in Upland, CA do the install.  They also installed a new Piston Ring and Intake valve.  Have work order paperwork and old parts from the job.  Last big ride was 2017 September, Kennedy Meadows.  Put on new tires before this ride along with fresh oil/filter and new air filter.  Bike ran like a champ and we made it up some some pretty nasty climbs first try 
      The Hand Grips are new. The front and rear fenders along with radiator shrouds are a year old.  Side # plate cracked as seen in picture.
      Still an awesome ol' powerful bike.
      Negatives are a heavy clutch pull and a grabby clutch.
      Selling because I've replaced it and have no intention of using it anymore.
      Pink in hand.
      I'm asking $1,500 OBO for the bike as is.
      No trades.
      Cash only please.
      Serious inquiries only.
      Thank you.
       
×