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530EXC - Best Wheel Bearings? OEM? Aftermarket?


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I have 60hrs on my 530exc. We are getting the bikes ready for a 1800 mile off road trip this summer and I'm thinking about changing out the wheel bearings just for piece of mind.

What kit is best? Stick with OEM or is it better to go with a aftermarket kit?

What about spacers?

Thanks in advance

Hodakaguy

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1800 mi trip??? Are you riding the Canada to Mexico trail? If so, I'd love a report both on your setup plans and the ride itself. My riding partner and I are planning to ride the trail next year on 450 EXC-Rs...

Thanks,

Hamp

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1800 mi trip??? Are you riding the Canada to Mexico trail? If so, I'd love a report both on your setup plans and the ride itself. My riding partner and I are planning to ride the trail next year on 450 EXC-Rs...

Thanks,

Hamp

Definitely on my list of things to do! What a sick trip that'd be.

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I replaced my stockers w/ Pivot Works at 210 hours on a 525 for an 1600 miler last summer, no problems. They come w/ the spacers and I haven't had any issues w/ grooves. I've got a couple thousand more miles and another 125 hours since then as well.

Someone I trust taught me to pull the dust seals on the bearing itself with a pick and pack the bearing w/ waterproof grease, then pop em right back on. I believe I get better wear out of them that way.

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I replaced my stockers w/ Pivot Works at 210 hours on a 525 for an 1600 miler last summer, no problems. They come w/ the spacers and I haven't had any issues w/ grooves. I've got a couple thousand more miles and another 125 hours since then as well.

Someone I trust taught me to pull the dust seals on the bearing itself with a pick and pack the bearing w/ waterproof grease, then pop em right back on. I believe I get better wear out of them that way.

I do the same. Best thing you can do for your wheels.:banana:

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Personally I would never change wheel bearings at only 60 hrs, unless they show signs of wear. I would suggest that when you put on new tires for the trip that you check the bearings; then when the wheels are off the bike, pull the outer seals and pack in extra BelRay grease. Keep in mind that I'm speaking from a CA perspective, i.e. not as much water as is in WA.

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.....Personally I would never change wheel bearings at only 60 hrs, unless they show signs of wear....

Up here in the great white north, bearing changes happen a couple of times every summer. Lots of water and power wheelies cause the chain side bearings to go very fast. Front wheel bearings, at least 1 per summer.(again probably due to the amount of water we are stuck riding thru)

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SKFseals part# 692397, NSK bearings 6005vvc3 call motion industries they normally stock them Enduro Engineering has some nice harden wheel spacers.

A lot of places like all balls, moose racing,pivot works get there bearings from china and Korea. price is good but bearings are made from salvage metal and the races balls and gages dont hold up well to water rust and pit fast . One reason is they are not factory packed with waterproof grease.

This comes from 15 years in the oil refinery as a millwright and that was 10 years ago, I am sure today nothing has changed. I just pulled bearings out of my 09 ktm that were moose bearings the previous owner had replaced the oem ones with and they are made in china.

EE has bearing kits I would ask them or any one the manufacturer of their bearings.

the good my EX 07 300 XCW with 3900 miles 300 HRs on NSK bearings.

BUY American

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I bought some bearings at a local bearing shop and asked them what 'grade' they stock. Sales said typically it's an electric motor grade bearing. The front wheel bearings and seals alone were $50. If a guy rides a bike under 10 times a year, I would go with an all balls set up. With the amount of mud and related power washing every ride my bike has to have, the cheaper bearings won't last even if loaded with bel-ray when new. I have no idea how much better the electric motor grade bearings are going to be. Mud/ washing also does a number on my chain and sprockets, but that's another post.

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Are those seal and bearing part numbers the same for both the front and rear wheels?

Thanks

Hodakaguy

SKFseals part# 692397, NSK bearings 6005vvc3 call motion industries they normally stock them Enduro Engineering has some nice harden wheel spacers.

A lot of places like all balls, moose racing,pivot works get there bearings from china and Korea. price is good but bearings are made from salvage metal and the races balls and gages dont hold up well to water rust and pit fast . One reason is they are not factory packed with waterproof grease.

This comes from 15 years in the oil refinery as a millwright and that was 10 years ago, I am sure today nothing has changed. I just pulled bearings out of my 09 ktm that were moose bearings the previous owner had replaced the oem ones with and they are made in china.

EE has bearing kits I would ask them or any one the manufacturer of their bearings.

the good my EX 07 300 XCW with 3900 miles 300 HRs on NSK bearings.

BUY American

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I dont think they are but could be wrong. The all 4 seals are the same but the rear bearings are wider than the fronts.

I spoke to Motion Industries and they told me of some bearing they have that is the exact same as ours. Except, where ours have rubber seals these have stainless steel sleaves. The guy quoted me $77 a bearing IIRC. I thought that was way too much so I opted for the AllBalls. The guy said the ones with the steel sleaves will last MUCH MUCH longer.

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1800 mi trip??? Are you riding the Canada to Mexico trail? If so, I'd love a report both on your setup plans and the ride itself. My riding partner and I are planning to ride the trail next year on 450 EXC-Rs...

Thanks,

Hamp

We have a route/loop planned from the southern tip of Oregon, through the deserts of NV, into Death Valley CA and back. Should be a blast :banana:

I do have the tracks for the continental divide ride from the Canadian boarder to the mexican boarder, that one is on the list some day also.

Here's a link to my ride report from last years ride, I will be set up very similar that that trips as far as gear ect. There are some pictures of my gear/pack at the end of the thread. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=503392&highlight=hodakaguy

Hodakgauy

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Hmmmm. I just now ordered some Allballs replscement for my 525 now you guys have me wondering about the longevity. I completed a month long off road ride covering three countries and had the rear bearings fail on me in Laos. Luckily I was able to find one non sealed bearing that worked in a small little town in Laos to get me back on the road.

If I replace with the Allsballs should I expect less life than out of the stock bearings? Damn not what I need in a third world like Laos and Cambodia.

Krazyinski - Thanks for your post, great insight and something to think about. Now I ponder at my box of Allballs bearings for my wheels, and swingarm that I'm taking back to Thailand in two weeks and nevously wonder if they will last a season.

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We have a route/loop planned from the southern tip of Oregon, through the deserts of NV, into Death Valley CA and back. Should be a blast :banana:

I do have the tracks for the continental divide ride from the Canadian boarder to the mexican boarder, that one is on the list some day also.

Hodakgauy

Sounds like a blast, cool link too. I'll look forward to the report from your next planned ride!

My riding partner and I are planning a Canada to Mexico ride next year (with SAG support to cut down on the loads) largely based on the Divide trail. Any links to bike setup worth looking at?

Hamp

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  • 2 months later...

The All balls Racing bearings are electric motor quality bearings. They are not made form salvage metal. They are manufactured on German or Japanese equipment. They are packed with chevron anti rust grease. Bearings fail because of water/dirt contamination don’t pressure wash around your bearing bores/spacers. Make sure your wheel spacers aren’t not grooved and the bearings should last a long time. The most important thing is proper installation. The two most critical steps are as follows.

Never tap on the inner race of the bearing.

Tap the first side in completely. Flip the wheel drop in the inner spacer and tap the second bearing in until it just touches the inner spacer. Driving the second bearing in complexly may side load the bearing causing premature failure. Now check that the bearings rotate freely.

ride on.

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