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Guidance, Please

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I have purchased the parts needed to rejet the carb, but i have an embarrassing question. How do i get to the carb?

I know my way around an FCR pretty well so once I'm there, I should be fine,

but how do I get there?

So I guess I'm asking; who among you has found the easiest route removal?

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Interesting question......... I followed the manual and it was WAY too much work and don't believe I had to do to half of what they told me too. It involved removing the subframe,starter and most electrical components which was time consuming. The manual said to remove it through the right side of the bike [big PITA] but I found that removing the top of the rear spring and removing the carb through the back of the bike [between frame] was MUCH easier. I also don't think removing the starter or subframe was necessary either. I'm thinking next time I'll just flip the subframe up so I don't have to remove all the electronic stuff. I know DIRK was saying in a post he can rip it down and back in about an hour which sounds magical to me:worthy: DIRK, what do you do exactly? Please enlighten us bumbling idiots [speaking only for myself] lol! :banana:

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Remove the seat, unbolt the subframe and flip it up, unbolt the top of the rear shock and let it drop down a bit, disconnect cables and fuel line, loosen intake boot clamps, and finally maneuver it out the back. Takes me about 20 min.

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Do you remove the tank and the airbox as well?

Yes to the tank [5 minutes] and the airbox is attached to the subframe. If you just flip the subframe up as suggested, you should be good. Unfortuately, I haven't tried the "easy" method yet, only the "manual" way so I can't comment exactly on the process but the front on the airbox is attached to the back of the carb and it should seperate easy enough. Let us know how you make out :banana: Did you get that email?

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I just did the "easy" way a few days ago. Its not too bad. I found a really cool article in, I think, Dirt Bike magazine on how to do a jet kit on an actual KLX450r. I gives you a step-by-step instruction, really good atricle. I will scan and post it online.

Funny, the magazine is a few years old. I never read the article since I didn't have a KLX at the time. A week ago somehow I start flipping though the magazine, see the article, that day order some jets, and a few days later do the install. :banana:

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You don't have remove the airbox.

You do need to remove the front side covers and the gas tank.

Unscrew the fuel shutoff valve and disconnect the fuel line there that leads to the carb so you can take the tank off.

Remove seat and rear plastic, not the fender though, leave that on.

You have to undo the muffler bolt to subframe.

Remove the the lower subframe bolts.

Loosen the single upper subframe bolt so it pivots easily.

loosen the screw on the rubber coupling from the intake on the back of the carb.

Leave the airbox alone, it is attached to the rear subframe and will swing out of the way with the subframe.

Disconnect the vaccum hose connected to the air box (left side).

There is another vaccum hose that follows the large main frame support, you will need to disconnect that too as you tilt up the rear subframe.

As you lift it up it will pop the boot off of the back of the carb.

I used a bungee cord to hold the rear subframe vertical. The coolant tank won't leak and you won't have to mess with any of that if you keep it anywheres between vertical and leaning towards the back.

I tightened the upper subframe at this point just so it wouldn't hit me on the head.

Undo the upper shock bolt.

You should have a nice clear shot at the carb through the back.

If you have trouble, if the bike is on a stand, you can undo the lower shock bolt too and pop out the shock. The manual says you have to undo the lower control arm bolt, but that isn't true, if you jack it up the right height you can get the lower shock bolt without messing with anything else.

The only pain is getting the carb boot back on when you are done, when you swing that subframe down, you have to be careful to get the boot on all the way around, and it is tight.

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You don't have remove the airbox.

You do need to remove the front side covers and the gas tank.

Unscrew the fuel shutoff valve and disconnect the fuel line there that leads to the carb so you can take the tank off.

Remove seat and rear plastic, not the fender though, leave that on.

You have to undo the muffler bolt to subframe.

Remove the the lower subframe bolts.

Loosen the single upper subframe bolt so it pivots easily.

loosen the screw on the rubber coupling from the intake on the back of the carb.

Leave the airbox alone, it is attached to the rear subframe and will swing out of the way with the subframe.

Disconnect the vaccum hose connected to the air box (left side).

There is another vaccum hose that follows the large main frame support, you will need to disconnect that too as you tilt up the rear subframe.

As you lift it up it will pop the boot off of the back of the carb.

I used a bungee cord to hold the rear subframe vertical. The coolant tank won't leak and you won't have to mess with any of that if you keep it anywheres between vertical and leaning towards the back.

I tightened the upper subframe at this point just so it wouldn't hit me on the head.

Undo the upper shock bolt.

You should have a nice clear shot at the carb through the back.

If you have trouble, if the bike is on a stand, you can undo the lower shock bolt too and pop out the shock. The manual says you have to undo the lower control arm bolt, but that isn't true, if you jack it up the right height you can get the lower shock bolt without messing with anything else.

The only pain is getting the carb boot back on when you are done, when you swing that subframe down, you have to be careful to get the boot on all the way around, and it is tight.

Big Daddy know's the way....word for word, exactly what i do. ! hour in and out....can't get photo finishing or dry cleaning as quick as i can gut a carb!

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OK, so at the risk of becoming annoying; do you unbolt the top shock mount?

Rome06379; i never did get the email, but i sent you yet another addy to send it to.

Thanks Again

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OK, so at the risk of becoming annoying; do you unbolt the top shock mount?

Yes, I just did the top and let the shock flop back. It leave a fair amount of room to get the carb out. I was checking out Yanni's pic though and it looked like he took his through the top with the cables still on? Interesting......

Bill, check your yahoo email for update

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You are correct. I took it out through the top and it's still connected, but I can still work on it. I do nothing to the shock. :banana:

Dude, you sold me on that technic! Ever have problems with the cables in the way?

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The cables in the way? I'm confused. This is the quickest way to get it off I think but I don't know what you are asking.

I was referring to the throttle cables and the hot-start cable inhibiting the removal or twisting of the carb once you get it out of the boots. I love the idea of not having to remove the cables! This was the biggest problem for me with my sausage fingers :banana:

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Oh ok I got ya now. No issues and you do not have to remove a thing. It's much simpler because you are not disecting everything

I'm all for easy Yan, thanks for the idea! Hopefully I won't have to get in there for a while but I'll be going this root next time :banana:

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Yep, pulled it rightout the top still connected to everything. i did have to unbolt the top of the shock to get a little wiggle room and getting the airbox boot and clamp back on was bothersome, but man it was worth it. She runs so much better, its like a different bike.

Thanks to everyone for ALL the help! I really appreciate it!

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Glad it worked, Its a bit late, but did you remove the swingarm and grease the rear suspension bearings while you had it apart? Mine came from the factory with ZERO grease in the swingarm pivot.

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Glad it worked, Its a bit late, but did you remove the swingarm and grease the rear suspension bearings while you had it apart? Mine came from the factory with ZERO grease in the swingarm pivot.

No Sir, it never crossed my mind. To be honest, once I put it all back together, I closed my eyes and held my breath as i hit the starter, scared to death I'd have to go back into it.

One thing i was surprised at was that she's not near as cold natured as she was with the stock jetting.

Again, thanks to everyone for the help and just to give you a heads up; the next project is suspension.

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