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correct oil ! Thread to end all discussion!

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per the MANUAL..(albiet my yamaha r6, a clutch is a clutch)

"since oil lubricates the clutch, the wrong oil types or additives could cause clutch slippage. Therefore, do not add any chemical additives, or use engine oils with a grade of CD or higher, and do NOT use oils labled "ENERGY CONSERVING II"

The "energy conserving II " will be in the lower 1/2 of the circle under the SAE 10w-40 lable, with the CD in the top half.

Again, Rotella does not have "energy conserving" in the lable and thus would be ok. :banana:

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I thought this was common knowledge among enthusiasts?

Well, for those who are desperately in need of sleep or those who are really interested, this is the oil article to end all discussion:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

I highly recommend reading up on "synthetic" oil which explains why I almost always place the word "synthetic" in quotation marks.

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Here's another tidbit of info. All automotive 10w40, and heavier, oils are not energy conserving and will work in a wet clutch. All automotive 10w30, and lighter, oils are energy conserving and will not work in a wet clutch.

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Be careful with the 10-40, I've seen Energy Conserving seals on some of them. I always check before I check out.

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I wonder if the "Energy Conserving II" would affect the dry clutch on my 900SS ~

JM

Definitely :banana:

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"Energy Conserving" is a layman's term for "friction modifiers". I'm not going to get into the details of how, but for your average car, having "more slippery" oil is going to require less energy to turn all the bits and slide all the parts in your engine. Normally, this is good.

Where it's not good is on something designed not to slip or slide as much, such as a wet clutch. Cars have no wet clutches, so they don't care and can benefit, even if it's only 0.1 mpg from friction modifiers.

Motorcycles OTOH do use wet clutches and they do care.

Exceptions: little kid's bikes with centrifugal clutch and Harleys that use a dry clutch.

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This is NOT the end all because even on the site mentioned above by the engineer who isn't a chemical engineer while he mentions molybednum he fails to inform you that ALL synthetic auto oils have REMOVED zinc from their additives in favor of molybednum which can cause QUICK failure with 350 auto and truck motors and even has been causing problems with the little four bangers. Therefore, you either need a zinc additive or buy an oil you know has zinc in it like an 'amsoil for trucks'. No, that's not your clutch, but the zinc didn't cause slipping, but the moly will and that's why many 2s guys use ATF-F in their tranny case and NOT oil because today's oil causes slipping as well as the fact that I'll spend $2 a quart for ATF-F vs $5-6 a quart for some synthetic to make my clutch slip!

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yes.. it probably was wishful thinking to hope it would be the "end all" of oil threads. I did find it satisfying to actually see my manual say don't use oils with Energy conservation (friction modifier) on the lable. At least that can quiet the people who say "ANY oil is just fine"..

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Be careful with the 10-40, I've seen Energy Conserving seals on some of them. I always check before I check out.

Hmm, I've never seen an energy conserving 10w40. That doesn't mean they don't exist but it's got to be a rare bird.

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Again, Rotella does not have "energy conserving" in the lable and thus would be ok. :banana:

As well as a hundard others....... Nothing great about rotella

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