Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Question for you guru's.

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have a question that I am hoping you can help me out on. I have a 2004 CRF250x that I bought earlier last year. The bike cam with a 250r header and exhaust, as well as a 250r cam. It also had a JD jetting kit installed. Ran great, started up great.

A couple of months ago, I replaced the exhaust with a FMF Powerbomb header and a Factory 4 exhaust. I didn't change any of the jetting settings, but did notice that it didn't want to start "as well" with the electric start. It still started up great when I kicked it though. It was instant when kicking it. So I started thinking my battery was losing ampage. I bought a Turntech battery a couple of weeks ago and it seemed to help a little but still didn't want to start as well with the E-Start. But again, still fires up great when kicked.

So my question is this: Where do I start? Do I fatten up the main a little? It currently has a 165 main. Do you think I need to replace the spark plug? I have a new one I have yet to install. I honestly don't think its the valves due to the fast starting when kicked. Has anyone come across this problem before? Thanks in advance! :banana:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When you say doesn't want to start with the estart, does it turn over and not fire or truns over slowly?

Check the stator and pickup coil. Had a problem just like that in a KTM. Would crank and crank fast on the estart but just wouldn't start. Change the stator and bam started off the estart as easy as kicking.

As for jetting I would mess with the fuel screw and see if it gets better one way or the other. If you bike has a hot start and a choke you can use those to see if it is rich or lean. But if the jetting was off it should be hard to kick start as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes it cranks really fast, it just doesn't want to start right away. It will eventually start with the E-Start but not as quickly as it used to. I was thinking it might be the stator too. I am going to change the spark plug first and see if that helps. Sounds like a stator might be on order as well.

Thanks for the input!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You may want to pull your valve cover and check your valves.

Valve problems usually start to show up as hard starting first.

If valves show ok check clyinder leakage. You should be under 5%.

Had a friends 05x suffer from hard starting only with the e start in the morrning only. It would kick and roll start fine. Valve check ok. Leak tested the clyinder and found 15% leakage through the intake valves.

One of the intake valves seats had worn a ledge in it and was keeping the valve from sealing. The slightly lower than normal compression was causing the no start. New valves and recut the seats, Bike fires right up in the morning now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Hayden Ploeger
      So I have never actually posted on one if these forums. I usually just stalk them to get answers but I messed up and I might be out 800 bucks🙃
      I have a 2013 CRF250L that I recently bought and I wanted to get supermoto wheels for it. I got online and almost ordered a set of warp 9 wheels but then I saw an add on Craigslist. Long story short I purchased lightly used warp9 wheels from a 2012 CRF250X not realizing the axles are different sizes. The rims are the same size as what comes in the kit from warp 9 but the spacers and bearings are larger on the wheels that I got. Does anyone know if I can buy new bearing and spacer kits to go in these hubs to fit them on my bike or will I need to purchase new hubs entirely? 
      I work on a fishing boat and I'm off the coast of Oregon for a few weeks and wanted to order something so I can get these wheels on my bike when I get home.
      Thanks, 
      The guy who f***** up 
    • By yrun
      I have a new 16 crf250x.  Would like gear it up a bit for two track, orv trails.  How much can i drop the rear sprocket size without shortening the chain.
      Thanks men!
      Joe
    • By yrun
      I was working on installing new needle for JD jet kit today. While trying to get a bit more rotation on the carb i broke a little plastic tee on the top of carb (left side). I think its some sort of vent? Not sure if the brass part is threaded into carb or not? At any rate it will have to be replaced. Wonder where i'd get this little item?
      Any ideas?
      Thanks joe

    • By ronbuell
      Ever been bored or really ticked off by not being able to reach your fuel screw for trailside adjustments?  Well, I decided to do something about it, and not spend a bunch of money to boot!
      Parts liste included:
      Short length of brass tube. Short piece of old, broken speedometer inner cable. Nut from the rejects bin.   I welded the nut to the speedometer cable inner and soldered the other end to the fuel screw using the brass tube as a connector.  I didn't need or fab up a holder for the end, but I wouldn't be too hard. My DIY flexible fuel mixture screw works great and the price is right! I highly recommend this mod.

      Cheap, but effective DIY fuel mixture screw
    • By Frana
      Hi everyone. I’m new here so I don’t really know what to do but let me explain what’s up, so I bought this 2008 CRF250X today and everything looked in tip top shape, but within a few minutes of riding the engine and radiator gets to hot to touch and then the bike dies at low RPM, then it is a hassle to get it started(i drained the battery trying) and once it fires it dies super easily again like by touching the trottle or just idling and I have to be super cautious on the throttle to grt it going. I don’t know if it is overheating or if there is another problem, if anyone could help me it would be very much appreciated.
×