Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Husky 350 TE noise.

Recommended Posts

Hi there, this is the first time I have used this post, don't usually do this stuff, too busy.

I have just bought a 1992 Husky 350 TE and haven't received it yet, it is coming down on a transport from a farm up near Noosa.

The previous owner got it from a guy who got it in a package deal for a Chevy.

He never rode it and says that it has a noise like a piston slap. I have had a few huskys before, but all two strokes, an 1982- WR240, an 84 WR 500 and an 85 WR400.

I will probably pull it down when I get it, but would like to know what I'm looking for. A friend, who has just bought 2000 acres up in the mountains, is keen to get me to go for a ride next week-end, I would like to go, if I thought that the bike wouldn't suffer any more damage.

What are some things that I should be aware of and should I risk taking it out for a flog in the mountains.

P.S. I haven't had a bike for about 15 years, but was quite competitive when I was riding.

Thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Whe you get it, start it up and see if you can hear what the guy is talking about, if you hear no strange noises then take it for a spin, if something sounds bad tear into it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Love to see a picture of her. I would buy a new TE 350 tomorrow if they made one. I recon it is an ideal capacity for ST riding (prop forward size)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had a number of 610's and they have all made a ticking sound from the valve area at idle. Have looked them through, but never found anything wrong, never had a problem running them.....I think it's a normal thing. Could be what you're after.........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, still haven't got it yet, hope it's good enough for a spin up the mountains, trouble is, I have to get all new riding gear, all my old husky stuff is too old or I've given it away, still got my Bell Moto 3 though!

I will give a clearer description of the noise as soon as I get it. Gotta put some oil in it first though!

Tracked down all the parts I will need from the UK, how do these prices stack up, Piston kit - AUD $229, Con rod kit AUD $340, Pair of valves AUD $149.

Plus postage.

If any-body knows of a cheaper price, please let me know.

I know that the bottom end, gearbox etc, on husky's are pretty bullet proof, two strokes are easy to work on, so I hope that this rebuild will last for a while as I haven't had a husky four stroke.

My last bike was a 1990 XR 600, I swapped my WR 400 for a '89 SD900 Ducati, what a lemon, should have kept the 400!

The XR had great power, but handled like a pig.

Hit a tree root at high speed and the back wheel would want to go past you!

I probably won't get back into racing again, but it's hard to go slow when your having fun!

Keep you posted.:banana:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a few photo's of the bike. I paid $1136 for it on Ebay, $150 to transport it down to Sydney from Queensland and $100 to the previous owner to drop it off to the transport depot.[

IMG]HuskyTE350-2.jpgHuskyTE350-3.jpgHuskyTE350-1.jpg

Edited by Topgunint

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks pretty straight and clean for it's age,

yes the valvetrain on the single-cam huskys is quite loud,

(bit like a steam train..or a Ducati..!!)

it should be a rhythmical sound though, any strange noises need to be investigated.

R+D have a good rep. in aus,

why ship parts from the UK?,

the USD may work better for you also..??,

check old posts on here for the 350/410/610 to suss out where the oil-filter is etc,

a guy in NSW did a good photo service around last summer.

barrobuild was a regular poster on here form your part of the world too,

lots of left kick husky fans on here - welcome to the club,

Charlie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

X2 on what varesecrazy just said.

Funny, but I just picked up one of those before the holidays. It was in a basket though and I'm planning on stuffing that motor into a 1980 Husqvarna XC 500 2 stroke twin shocker frame as soon as I get around to it.

As far as that engine noise goes... I'd have to say that those motors made some interesting noises.

Actually every time I watch the cartoon Phineas and Ferb with my kids the character of their pet platypus known as Harry the platypus make a noise very simular of what one of those old style Husqvarna 4 stoke engines use to make.

See and listen if your motor makes this sound it's Ok: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gc6O9RlBTEo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, picked it up today, sounds like a normal single cylinder noise to me.

Sounds pretty perky, hope it's got a bit of stick.

Don't think I'll pull it down, just adjust everthing, clean all the filters etc., change the fork seals and oil, maybe re-pack the wheel bearings, oil the clutch cable, change the plug, tighten up a few things and take it out for a run!

Starting it is a bit tricky, all my two stroke huskys were left hand kick start, but this one seems a bit shorter.

Might have to make a clip to hold the peg out of the way.

I always start them with my right leg, before I get on.

I do have to get that nylon, swing arm protector where the chain runs across the swingarm, that has completely deteriorated.

Still, won't take much to get it up to scratch.

Now, just gotta find the time.......

By the way, thanks for the input guys, I really do appreciate your opinions, I have called a couple of dealers to see what there prices are for piston, conrod etc, just as easy to get it posted fro OS these days, usually only takes about 4-5 days and it saves me running all over the place.

How-ever, I will let you know on the price differences, OZ compared to OS.

The UK is cheaper than the US though.

Cheers! EE-hah!:banana:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, Husky rips, that's funny, actually does have that husky whine to it though.

Those twin shockers were hard to beat, hardly any moving parts and used to track beautifully. Saved my bacon a few times when I got out of control in the old days!

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok here we go,I had one of these for 5 years and would still have it except I started riding with some hard core riders,170k of single track and 20kgs over modern stuff and no button= stuff me.If you want bits call Stef at R and D at Emu Planes,or better still go out and check out what they have,great shop.Mine was a very easy starter,looks like your has the airbox mod,5 holes on the face,another good mod is the post 2000 model

carby bowl,it drains out of the motor in a fall and not in to flood it.Yours should have an auto decompress on the kickstarter,its a thin wedge like gadget close to the case and it engages when the kicker is close to full hight,as it passes it flicks a cable that opens the valve lifter,have a look at your head,on the right there should be a little lever with 2 cables attached on is the kicker cable and the other is the manual valve lifter up near the clutch.Do you have a manual,I have one so if you need info let me know,mine had white plastic everywhere so the yellow on the front end ?Do a serch on my user name I have posted lots of stuff on mine,great bike,I swopped it for a mates Pantah and his kid rode it into the ground in a year,they need an oil change ever big ride but with that they last a long time,I checked the tappits twice in 5 years and they never move,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey, Husky rips, that's funny, actually does have that husky whine to it though.

Those twin shockers were hard to beat, hardly any moving parts and used to track beautifully. Saved my bacon a few times when I got out of control in the old days!

Cheers

Ya, I wanted a vintage bike... but after thinking about it for a while I realized an old air cooled bike was something I was into.... to much noise and gray smoke.

Then I thought about something that looked vintage but with a modern chassis... and I still have fond memories of my all time favorite Husky which was a 1984 water-cooled WR400 twin shocker.

So I said what if I found a Black and Chrome, Gray framed 1980 to 1992 XC or WR and shoehorned in a 92 WXE 350 motor as well as the Marzoke forks and disk brake wheels?

This way I'd have a vintage looking highbred with a water cooled bullet proof 4 stoke motor, Olin shocks and disk brakes... I think that would make for a very cool looking duel sport bike.

Anyway... as I move forward with the project I'll post photos.

BlipBlip/HuskyRips

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aahhh, the WR 400, my favorite bike, I had the WR500 also, lots of power, but not much good on steep hills, the 400 was like a big YZ250 yamaha, smooth power all the way through, second gear up anything, shoulda kept that bike.......

Mine was an 85, but I think we used to get them a year later down in Oz in those days.

I had an 82 WR240 that was done up for the ISDE, great bike, suspension wise, but wouldn't pull the skin of a rice puddin...even in a strong wind...!

Had a coup[le of big stacks when I needed a handfull and there wasn't anything there!

That's why I bought the WR500.

That thing was a tractor in muddy enduros, never lacked any power in any situation, just came on a bit strong on steep, tricky, uphills.

The 400 was a much better bike, I loved it, swapped it for a dead duke!

Rats, I thought the Ducati would be a good project.....nu!

Think I'll stick to dirtbikes.

Edited by Topgunint

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Barrobuild, I have done a search of your posts and devoured them hungrily!

Actually, I got it out again today to see how it started, after the initial start, it started with half a kick!

Looks like it's been raced at some stage as there is the telltale paint and number on the side of the steering head.

I looked for the auto de-compressor, but it's gone, I can see where the cable fits, shouldn't need it anyway. But I might fix it if they have those spares at R&D, thanks for the info. I stopped at Northside Ducati, Husky dealer, and he's got nothing.

I was after that nylon chain runner, but Husky doesn't make them any more.

I am getting some perspex cut for a security gate tomorrow, so I will ask the guys there what they have in plastics.

The clutch isn't working, could be because the oil was drained for a week and they stuck together, or they could be glazed, but their probably stuffed!

The top link on the rear shock has a little movement and the rear sprocket is pretty worn.

All the cables are worn, new ones there!

Hey BB, perhaps you could tell me the valve clearances and the plug gap, also, which is the best plug, the guy at Northside didn't know and just took a punt.

The front guard is a husky one, probably off a later bike, I prefer the white blue an yellow colour combo of the late 80"s early 90's too.

That head light will hit the bin ASAP, might take the globes out though, 12 volt halogen, three out of four are blown in my little fella's bedroom, and he told me to fix it....

One thing about the older huskys, you could always get a piece made up from a good boilermaker, (I have one living over the road) and the bearings were available through your local bearing shop, not like some of the Jap bikes that had there own bearings.

One of my 12 yr old daughters friend's father is a mechanical engineer, with lots of goodies in the workshop. Have to promote that friendship....

Cheers

Edited by Topgunint

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Inlet clearance = 0.10 mm ,Exhaust clearance = 0.15mm , engine cold

Plug gap 0.6mm to 0.7mm , NGK C7E and for racing NGK C8E

Fork clickers bottom or compresion damping 12 clicks from screw bottomed

Fork clickers top or rebound 8 clicks from bottomed

They are the oposite from usual re top and bott

Shock clicers top or Compresion = 12 clicks from bottomed

Shock cliker bottom or Rebound = 10 clicks from bottomed

I am 5 minutes from Carl at Nothside,they are ok for generic stuff and rubber but R and D is the go,BTW Stef is Hans Applegin,ex importers son,long long term Husky bloke

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi again BB, went out to R&D today, Stefan is a really nice bloke, bought a clutch and throttle cable, but he didn't have the decompressor cables, a new air cleaner filter, clutch cable adjuster, a white front guard etc.

Got a sticker kit (he even found some TE 350 stickers) and some new riding gear and helmet, just got to find some good boots...cheap.

Ordered some rear spokes, can't get a swing-arm chain runner, so I'm going to pull the old one off and get some made up. I asked Stef if he would like some to sell in his shop, he said he would.

Got home tonight to see how it started again, it hasn't been ridden for about 12 months, started first kick.

I noticed that it is blowing a bit of smoke though, Stefan says that he should be able to get a piston kit pretty easily, I'm assuming that the bottom end is ok and the bore should be nikasiled, is that right, or only on the 2 strokes.

If so, the bore should be ok and I'll just put a piston kit in it.

I'll make sure that he can get one before I pull it down though, don't want to get stuck with a dead bike.

I don't mind if it blows a bit of smoke, maybe I just put a little too much oil in the gearbox.

Standard ATF still ok for the forks?

Thanks for the info, very handy to have you around, do you still have a bike or just the Pantah, is that a 500?

Cheers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Te 250 05,bought from Stef as a runout end of year,a 1982 AE 420 Auto,a 1975

Laverda 3c and a 1984 600 Pantah,Visits to Emu Planes do get spendy.The oil on the 350 does both engine and gearbox,that hose down on the right side of the engine is where the fuilter screen is,the bigger nut under the hose is it, oil is drained from the hose.1.6 litres of Motex,I use fork oil in the forks,7.5 wt or 5 wt.There is another magnet to clean the oil on the left side od the barrel,its a little oval cover,I only found mine 3 years after owning it,why I am going on about the oil is you need to do changes every 500ks,the motor does not have an oil pump and relys on crankcase presure for it to circlate,its basicaly a 2 stroke modifyed to be a 4 stroke,clever but not so great if you treat them like an XR Honda and neglect oil changes,you can thrash the arse of them but they need lots of new oil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You must have quite a big garage BB, mines full of building materials that I have left over from jobs. I have to clear a section just to work on the TE.

Ordered a piston kit from R&D today, Stefan advised I replace the valve stem seals as well.

Actually, his prices are pretty good, he knocked quite a bit off the riding gear and helmet.

Might start pulling it apart this week-end and suss out what else I need to order. Cheers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

An Aussie guy going by KCUF,

did a motor rebuild on here around 12 months ago,

you may get some useful pointers from that,

as well of course as the extensive rebuild by AGITATOR

My old 410 needs the same treatment , but I don't ride enough to justify the expense at the present time.

good luck,

Charlie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Big64N
      Good condition with a long list of high end upgrade parts.
      Rekluse EXP 3.0 with cover and slave
      EVO- Ellensburg suspension tuning for 6' 200# expert rider
      Fork bleeders
      Trail-tech map switch
      Moose 1-1/8 flex bar
      CYCRA probend bar guards
      SXS skid plate with linkage plate
      Clutch and water pump guards
      Frame guards
      Fastway Evolution III pegs
      SRT Pro Armor radiator and rear rotor guards
      Acerbic Front rotor guard
      TM designs chain guides
      DID race chain
      Renthal sprockets
      Gripper seat
      FMF F-bomb header
      Dirt Tricks timing chain tensioner
      Pro Wheel, wheels
      Tubliss front and rear
      New top end and valve adjustment 60 hours old
      Many more aftermarket parts as well as spare parts and service manuals included in the sale.  Willing to include 4 sets of tires with 80% tread left for full price.
      Great bike with plenty of life left and set up for anything from single track woods to wide open dessert.
      Can hang with any of the 450's but is much easier to handle in the tight woods.
      Priced to sell at $6000.00 
      Willing to consider reasonable offers but no trades or carry.
    • By Dean.b
      Long story short I bought this 2011 WR300. The thing is mint, looks brand spanking new. The thing ran like a top, but only had one problem, a low idle. I was to lazy to fix it and just dealt with the fact that I always needed to keep a little bit on the throttle. My third ride on it, I took it to the florence dunes and the top end burnt up. I have just finished fixing it and all I need to do is break it in. I need to adjust the idle first though, and don't know if I'll have the idle too high until it starts. I don't want to hurt the motor on a fresh rebuild and want some opinions on what to do. Do you think it will be fine? How many turns out should I set the carb just to be safe?
      Any response helps
      -Dean
    • By dorilabo
      #Husqvarna
      #CR125
      #2-Stroke
      #Maintenance
      #Advice





    • By motoxtremist
      Just bought a used 2017 Husqvarna FC450. It's my 1st EFI bike so I'm hoping someone can help me out with this issue.
      After starting the bike cold and idling for about a minute or two, it blows a puff of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe if I roll the throttle. It also does this if I stop to talk to a riding buddy on a trail or on the side of the track, let it idle, and then start out on track again. After revving it once the blue smoke is gone but riding buds have told me they smell and occasionally see a puff of blue smoke when following me - not a constant stream just a puff and then it's gone for a while. I'm talking to myself over trying to locate the cause of this as a leak-down test shows no issue. 
      Bike history
      Bought used with 70 hours on it. 
      Original owner had an FMF header and tailpipe on it which he kept. He sold it to me with the stock pipe. He never had it remapped for the FMF pipe
      Started it's life in Atlanta GA 
      Now mostly ridden at sea level
      He told me he used mineral-based 10w-40 Yamalube oil. The manual calls for 10w-50 Ester-based synthetic - which the bike is now running. 
      This is what I've tried so far:
      Leak-down test produced only a 3-5% loss.
      No bubbles in the coolant with the cap off
      No air leak at the exhaust pipe
      No leak at intake
      Barely, barely noticeable hiss when I remove the oil fill cap - but again not enough to lose any more than 5% pressure during the leak-down test.
      Wouldn't matter but checked the valve clearances while the valve cover was off. They were in spec.
      No loss of power
      No milky engine oil from a coolant leak
      No loss of engine oil as seen at the engine oil level window - never needed to add oil between changes
      Talked to someone who builds motors for a living and he said "all KTM/Husqvarna's do it especially when cold because the EFI delivers more fuel on startup as opposed to running at operating temperature". I guess I can see that but why does the bike blow blue smoke at operating temperature then if I pull off the trail or track for 1 minute to ask one of my riding buds something? I'm not letting it idle for minutes at a time. 1-2 minutes tops. Is this just normal for KTM/Husqvarna/4-stoke racing bikes?? Any help would be greatly appreciated!  Former bikes where 2-strokes (CR250, RM125) and a 1993 DR350 which I could've let idle for 20 minutes an not seen blue smoke - but that was a carbed bike. I've always known if a 4-stroke is smoking blue it's burning oil and you shouldn't keep riding it. So I'm a bit concerned about whipping it around the track or taking it out a few miles on trails.
       
    • By MotoXRacer_19
      As the title suggests, I've been debating the idea of throwing in a high compression piston. It will bump the compression in my 2014 KTM 350 XC-F from 13.5:1 to 14:1. First and foremost my main question is, because I live under 1000 ft and usually run 97 octane REC gas, will I have to change the fuel I run or not? Also, will I have to change out the cams to aftermarket and re-time the whole motor and ignition? I guess I really don't know what to expect so any advice will definitely help! Attached below is a photo of the bike I plan on putting it in.  

×