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checked valves today and have a queston

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the ex is at .009

the in is at .004

Should I leave them alone or should i set the IN to .005

I want to be looser right? i still have the bike apart

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On bikes I have heard, A noisy valve is a happy valve, sorry don't remember where or why.. If someone knows it would be helpfull.

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I would leave them alone. If I would want any valve with slightly more clearance, it would be the exhaust valve, due to the heat.

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Why leave them loose? Adjust them to factory specs.

Intake .004

Exhaust .008

Specs actually are not quoted as specific numbers, but as a range:

Intake 0.08 - 0.13 mm (0.003 - 0.005 in)

Exhaust 0.17 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 in)

If they are within the range, you can leave them be.:banana:

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I just left them. it's easy enough to do so I will check them at the end of the season.

Thanks guys.

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I used this from the PDF

A way to find the TDC compression position (where adjustment should be made) is to remove the rocker covers and watch the rocker arms as you turn the engine over by turning counterclockwise or turning the wheel. When the TDC mark on the crank comes to the hole, continue turning the engine slowly while watching the rocker arms. If they DO NOT MOVE at all as you continue turning, this was the position where adjustment needs to be made. The other TDC is when the valves are in the overlap position. You will see the exhaust rocker arm just closing and the inlet rocker arm just opening and no valve clearance at all. So keep turning the engine until you get to the desired TDC. If you see the wrong one, then the next one will be the right one. If you just missed the right one, then keep turning through the next one and stop at the second.

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Another dead give-a-way is compression. Once you feel compression rising continue turning the crank while looking for the 10 BTDC timing mark in the view port. That's the only mark on the DR650's rotor.... and close enough for adjusting the valves. Remember you can't turn the crank backwards (clockwise) without trying to turn the starter and reduction gearing so don't blow past the mark too far. It's likely the rotor may not stay right on the mark.... (silly magnets) but you'll be close enough. :banana:

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On bikes I have heard, A noisy valve is a happy valve, sorry don't remember where or why.. If someone knows it would be helpfull.

Not really.... I did some work on a non-running SR125 last year, the valve clearances had been too big (so noisy) and eventually the hammering on the top of the valve had worn through the hardening and then the valve stem had rapidly worn to the point where the groove holding the collets had gone and the valve dropped onto the piston :lol: keep 'em to withing factory settings is best :banana:

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I bought my '08 DR back in January "as new" with 289 miles on it and did the valves today for the 600 mile service.

Most of the service went as smooth as could be expected, but I do have one question --

How much "drag" or tug should there be on the feeler gauge when checking the clearance?

I also have some questions about the factory specs and how to interpret the numbers on the feeler gauge set that I bought to do the chore. I'll see if I can shoot photos of those and then come back with those questions.

In the meanwhile, insight on the amount of tug on the gauge would be appreciated.

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I bought my '08 DR back in January "as new" with 289 miles on it and did the valves today for the 600 mile service.

Most of the service went as smooth as could be expected, but I do have one question --

How much "drag" or tug should there be on the feeler gauge when checking the clearance?

I also have some questions about the factory specs and how to interpret the numbers on the feeler gauge set that I bought to do the chore. I'll see if I can shoot photos of those and then come back with those questions.

In the meanwhile, insight on the amount of tug on the gauge would be appreciated.

Clearance tension is a touchy feely thing. If your intake feeler gauge (thinnest one) won't push back trhough the gap without wadding up the tension is a bit much. :lol: There should be a smooth even tension going in both directions. A half thousanth can mean the difference from a smooth feeler gauge to a stuck one so as long as you set everything with the same feel you will be well within the adjustment range. :thumbsup:

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