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*@$#%& trans oil

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Well, I did an oil change yesterday and after the usual 5 hours, it is looking milky again. :banana: I changed out the water pump seal and bearing last year and the subsequent change seemed better, a little milky, but it was the first change since the repair. That was the only change as the snow started flying and I didn't ride much at all, just a few short rips. Now it's the same as it was before. My sons 65 was a bit milky this time around too, and it has always been fine. I am being optimisitic but:

-Could it just be the Zook 10-40 oil?

-Could it be from the condensation from cooler temps. and some residual moisture from pre-repair?

-Could I have messed up putting the seal and bearing back in? I didn't scotch brite the shaft as I have read, but it seemed okay at time.

-Where would you guys go from here?

Thanks in advance!

Charlie

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Well, I did an oil change yesterday and after the usual 5 hours, it is looking milky again. :banana: I changed out the water pump seal and bearing last year and the subsequent change seemed better, a little milky, but it was the first change since the repair. That was the only change as the snow started flying and I didn't ride much at all, just a few short rips. Now it's the same as it was before. My sons 65 was a bit milky this time around too, and it has always been fine. I am being optimisitic but:

-Could it just be the Zook 10-40 oil?

-Could it be from the condensation from cooler temps. and some residual moisture from pre-repair?

-Could I have messed up putting the seal and bearing back in? I didn't scotch brite the shaft as I have read, but it seemed okay at time.

-Where would you guys go from here?

Thanks in advance!

Charlie

Are we talking slightly milky or shake milky? I run ATF-F in my trans and every time I change it it looks like metallic prune juice - It's just what it does when it's run through my trans, it's not a coolant problem. Could this be what's happening to yours? How does your coolant level look?

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Coolant level looks good. Can't see a change at all, but I'm told it doesn't take much?The oil drains pretty white. It doesn't "goo" under the fill cap, just looks white.

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Sounds like it's still leaking a little coolant. Mine looked like this:

oil.jpg

When I got the bike it had filthy black oil, after 3 changes it looked more silver than milky so I started with changing the clutch. After the new clutch it looked more milky than silver. It got worse after each ride. Then I changed the water pump seal and the oil was coming out crystal clear on the 3rd change. Been fine ever since.

Doubt you could damage the seal presing it in. I put grease on the shaft when I pressed it thru the seal.

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Yup. That's my oil. Guess I'll be pulling the seal again. I did put some lithium grease on seal, Guess I should've used some other type. Was there an obvious improvement on first change? Maybe I'm still getting water out of case?

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If you have two bikes that have the same problem and you have a heated garage that can go above and below the dew point, I would blame it on condensation. Just do a really good job of flushing it out and go for another ride. The key is that you haven't lost any coolant.

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No heated garage. My sons 65 was no where near as bad as mine. I'm thinking I f'd up the seal by not using the correct grease on shaft, or the shaft is done. It's hard to say if I lost coolant. If I have, it's very little.

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OEM seal. Should I be looking into aftermarket? I just ordered new seal, bearing, and shaft this time. Haven't taken it apart yet, but I plan on replacing the whole thing. Tired of craving cookies when I drain my oil!

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I was just wondering if you used OEM. OEM is the way to go for the zooks. I can't get aftermarket stuff to last on my bike. I'm having a similar issue with my tranny. Blew out a gear. replaced most everything except the c-clips. blew out another gear because a c-clip failed and now I found some slivers in the oil so I'm splitting the cases and replacing everything that I haven't already replaced. All the bearings and washers, circlips again and bushings.

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Yup. That's my oil. Guess I'll be pulling the seal again. I did put some lithium grease on seal, Guess I should've used some other type. Was there an obvious improvement on first change? Maybe I'm still getting water out of case?

I did a lot of leaning the bike over and wiping out the oilky oil while I had it open. Yes, it did improve with the first change. By the 3rd change the oil came out looking new.

Doubt the type of grease matters. May well be a worn shaft.

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It could be the seal has shrunk in the cold and let a little bit of coolant through. it doesn't take much to make the oil go that colour. try starting the bike as often as possible in the cold to keep the seal expanded.

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If you have two bikes that have the same problem and you have a heated garage that can go above and below the dew point, I would blame it on condensation. Just do a really good job of flushing it out and go for another ride. The key is that you haven't lost any coolant.

:banana: Its condensation. Change it and go for a ride. Change it again after your ride. You should know by now if its a seal or condensation from the winter. You have two bikes with the same problem, both were fine before winter, now both "got milk".

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I don't know that mine was fine before storage... It's always had a hint of metallic since I purchased, but got worse, turning cappuccino, which led me to initial fix in November. This was the first ride since that "fix".

My parts guy dropped the ball and didn't order parts when I asked him to. I have a "date" with a track this weekend, and parts won't be here on time. Fresh oil is in tranny, coolant is topped off. I guess I'll know with Mondays oil change what the story is. I have parts ordered anyway.

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Just pulled it all apart again. I noticed that the cover gasket was deteriorated and stuck to the case around the coolant passage. The rest of gasket was like new. I am going to redo the entire pump anyway.

If I get this 2 stroke stuff and later model RM's, that's the only place besides the pump seal that coolant and trans oil come close correct? So if coolant is getting into oil, it's gotta be one of the two?

Obviously I will be putting a new gasket on and am wondering if I should use any type of sealant in addition? Are there any other tricks? Maybe torque the bolts around passage first?

I seriously appreciate the help guys. Thanks! :thumbsup:

Charlie

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I grease all my gaskets. Never had a leak and they never brake if I need to take it apart. Been doing this for over 20 years and never had a failed gasket. Some riders are going to slam me for what I just said, but it works.

Edited by Padgett

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I don't use anything, but the gasket itself. Its not a bad idea to use a little grease to prevent breakage though. I just always buy new gaskets. I just hand tighten all the bolts then snug them down slightly. I then torque at 5ft lbs and then the final of 8ftlbs.

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Thanks for the input guys. I don't think the gasket failed, just want to be sure to cover all bases. I'm tired of milky oil.

I am correct in the assumption that the gasket surrounding the water passage next to the pump shaft and seal are the only two ways coolant can get into tranny right?

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I think there is a passage between the crank area and the trans area.

edit:

I just checked my old case gasket no passage there. So the only way it gets in there is via the water pump and larger clutch/waterpump cover.

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