Carb boot spacers????

A friend of mine who works at a Yami dealer pointed something out to me. The Carb is loose! The clamps have spacers to prevent over-tightening.

He said to remove the spacers or trim them down to prevent the carb coming off or air leaks. Said the bike will run better and start easier.

Anyone done this, is this true?

My bike runs great when I CAN start it, but I think it's mostly technique with me.

I read somewhere, don't "stab" the kickstarter like a 2-stroke. You need to push it through. Easy to "type" for me, not easy to do! LOL :)

Originally posted by G-Man:

A friend of mine who works at a Yami dealer pointed something out to me. The Carb is loose!


I think Boit posted here about a similar problem, an air leak here was confusing his jetting. I recently had my carb off and I don’t have this problem.

If you do have an air leak here I can see how this would make an already hard to start bike impossible.

[This message has been edited by Hick (edited 12-21-2000).]

Geez Hick. How did you find that old post? I'm impressed... :)

G-Man: If there is an air leak anywhere between the carb and the cylinder head, all the jetting attempts you can come up with would be fruitless...not to mention possibly catastrophic to your engine. I too took that little sleeve(spacer) and took a small length off with a bench grinder and also substituted an equal sized allen screw for the philips head that comes stock. Damn philips head always seems to round out and I can't get them off...especially in that tight confines. Pay special attention to the intake boot. It has a groove in the face where it mates to the cylinder head and if it doesn't have a snug fit, it will definitely leak air. The boot has two pressed in mounting bushings that can come loose and allow the boot to slide away from the head and over the mounting bolts. To prevent this, install a proper size washer under the allen head mounting bolts. These washers need to be of sufficient diameter as to overlap onto the boot itself. The stock allen bolts only contact the bushing. I also use a little bit of Yamabond applied with a toothpick in these areas where air might leak. It's tedious work, but well worth the effort. My 426 starts easily in any kind of weather and carburates perfectly.

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