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KDX200 carb advice needed

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Ok so I took out the 93 KDX this past Saturday and here are a couple things that happened.First, the idle kept dropping and I would compensate by adjusting the idle screw in until I couldn't any more. So then I had to keep blipping the throttle to keep it running. Then, After tackling a hill the idle went through the roof for about 30 seconds and then died. I had to wait about 5 min before the bike would start again. And it did this to me one other time. I am going to open up the carb this afternoon and find out what jets, unplug them, check float, check air screw, clip possition, all that stuff. Any thoughts here or added things to check? Thanks so much.

PS. Anyone want to sell their stock muffler? This one doesn't have a spark arrester.

Shawn

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I am going to open up the carb this afternoon and find out what jets, unplug them, check float, check air screw, clip possition, all that stuff.

Those would be my first thoughts. Sounds like float is set wrong, or the float valve is sticking.

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Ok, so it has a 48 pilot, 150 main, clip set at the forth position, and the air screw at 1 1/2 turns out. From what I have read on here it's ALL screwed up! I'm at sea level so comparing to others at or near that I think I'll try a 42 pilot, 155 main, change the clip to the third position, and turn the screw out to 2 1/2 turns. Sound good? OH..... I forgot to mention that I found the pilot plugged up. I know I should only make one change at a time but it just seemed so outta whack from everyone else s. Oh and the reeds looked good. No gunk and seated flat on the cage.

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I'd say you went in the right direction. Stock pilot and a way leaned out main, makes you wonder what the PO was trying to accomplish.

2.5 turns out on the air screw is as far as you would want to go though. I'd try to jet it to where the idle levels out, and it gets it's best off idle snap, at around 1.5-2 turns out if possible.

Hit Ebay for a stock muffler, I see 'em on there quite often.

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Ya, I was thinking that the clip position on the needle compensated for the lean main jet. I'm not sure about the float level setting. I don't have the specs or any special tool to check it. The bike seemed good through the mid range but a little flat on top so that's why I'm thinking about going with a 155 main. That may keep the mid range good and give me that top end I feel it lacks. I'm a little concerned that a 42 pilot may be too much on the lean side but I'll give it a try.

Shawn

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Having to run 2.5 turns out on the air screw usually indicates a borderline rich pilot jet.

Do a search for the float level setting. There was a thread about setting it on the earlier models posted a while back.

Get that set, then recheck your jetting.

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Have you ridden the bike since you unclogged the pilot?

Make sure you are not looking at 1995+ KDX200 carb jetting to compare to your 1989 - 1994 KDX200.

Stock is 1.5 turns out.

You might be able to find a used FMF Turbine Core spark arrestor for 1989 - 1994 KDX200 on eBay before you can find a good OEM spark arrestor.

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Good call. Yes I was looking at 89 to 94 range so as not to get to confused. I did not ride the bike after unclogging the jet but it seemed so weird that I just decided to start with logic and what works with most bikes out there. Throw in a little of you guy's input and make a call. I have discovered that 1.5 turns out is the best. So 42 pj, 155 mj and clip in the middle this afternoon and I'll up date you guys with the results. Thanks,

Shawn

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WOW! :banana: Super huge improvement. I finally get to feel that power band at about 6k rpm you guys have all been talking about. Something else I discovered: When I first put the carb back in and turned the gas on it started just peeing out the over flow in the float bowl and so I thought the float must be stuck. After looking at it more it seemed that the float was simply letting too much fuel into the carb. at the point that when on the kick stand it would leak gas out of the over flow. So I bent the flange a little bit and it is working really good. doesn't seem to be running out of fuel and no more over flow. So far so good. Thanks for the help and reassurance.

Shawn

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I took it one step further on the advice of an old KDX er and dropped the pilot to a #40. The responce in the low end is much better. The bike will chug right down to near nothing and pull back out very smoothly in second gear and just a slight clutch in third. still got all that great top end of coarse. The right side case has arrived from the Ebay auction you guys pointed out to me. When my excitement dies down I'll attempt the case replacement. If the JB weld holds up I'll ride in my first enduro with it (the spark plug) up here in Western Washington. I'm going out again this weekend to play around with my daughter on her CR100 (with big bore kit :banana:) I can't wait. Thanks again guys. I'll keep you updated.

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I had bad reeds on my boyesen rad valve assembly that drove me insane :lol: for a long period. Finally put my stock reeds/assembly in until I got the new reeds for the rad valve and i haven't stayed off of it long enough to replace stock set up w/the rad valve.

Ok I lied. I just have not taken the time but I have been riding the piss out of my 1997 KDX 200 after a long down time.You know my bike is doing a fine job w/the stock reeds but i will get around to washing the bike and reinstalling the rad valve.

I forgot why i am typing.Oh yeah. Some of your symptoms were my symptoms i am thinking and it was the reeds.Never forget about the reeds when you are having fuel and fuel related problems.

HAPPY that you fixed the prob w/o incurring any expense.:thumbsup:

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