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Heavy springs?

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I am trying to get my 09 300xc ready for the up coming season. I only rode three times last year after buying it in late September. I found the forks to be harsh and choppy. The rear seemed to kick me in the ass when crossing logs and such. I weighed myself today with my gear on and am 255 lbs. From previous research I'm under an understanding that the reason the suspension feels stiff is that I'm keeping it sagged too far in the stroke so the progressive valving is into it's stiffer area. Is this true? Does anyone have their bike setup for this kind of weight and trail ridding? If so what spring rates are you using? Thankyou. Clinton

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I have a 10/250 enduro engineering spring for sale $50. Not exactly sure but i think it is for 245 - 265 lb riders. Lots of info on ktmtalk about suspension setup.

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I am trying to get my 09 300xc ready for the up coming season. I only rode three times last year after buying it in late September. I found the forks to be harsh and choppy. The rear seemed to kick me in the ass when crossing logs and such. I weighed myself today with my gear on and am 255 lbs. From previous research I'm under an understanding that the reason the suspension feels stiff is that I'm keeping it sagged too far in the stroke so the progressive valving is into it's stiffer area. Is this true? Does anyone have their bike setup for this kind of weight and trail ridding? If so what spring rates are you using? Thankyou. Clinton

I experienced the same thing as you. For the rear, I reduced the rebound by 1 or 2 clicks, that smoothed out the smaller stuff. I'm no big log crosser,....yet. I've gone over 8"ers but draw the line on the ones that scrape the bottom frame.:banana:

The forks were harsh like you said. My GPS kept bouncing out of the RAM cradle through the whoops. I didn't play with the clickers then, I was too busy enjoying my new ride to stop riding to fiddle with it.

I called Enduro Engineering and they are suggesting .46 fork springs and a 8.4 rear. I'm getting those installed this week as well as a Scotts sub mount. I'm 232#'s in street clothes, so I think I'm close to you with gear on.

I won't be able to see how I like it until this weekend. I plan on going back to the last trail I rode to see the difference. There's lots of whoops and smaller stuff there to see how well it works as well as play with the clickers. It's a 22 mile loop.

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I would say you are in the range of needing an 9.0 rear approximately. The newer bikes don't need as much spring as the older bikes, about 1 to 1.2 rate less. I am running a 9.0 on the older bike, weigh 15 lbs less than you do with gear, so the 9.0 should be close. I would then say 44's -46's in the front.

For the rear, back off the high speed compression to about 1/4 of a turn from full out. Then click in on the rebound damping 2 turns at a time till it quites bucking you. I would replace the springs first, though.

Some find the XC fork valving a little stiff for offroad. I imagine they get better once broken in, and if you can carry more speed.

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I would say you are in the range of needing an 9.0 rear approximately. The newer bikes don't need as much spring as the older bikes, about 1 to 1.2 rate less. I am running a 9.0 on the older bike, weigh 15 lbs less than you do with gear, so the 9.0 should be close. I would then say 44's -46's in the front.

For the rear, back off the high speed compression to about 1/4 of a turn from full out. Then click in on the rebound damping 2 turns at a time till it quites bucking you. I would replace the springs first, though.

Some find the XC fork valving a little stiff for offroad. I imagine they get better once broken in, and if you can carry more speed.

When I check MX-tech's calc they say an 8.2 rear and .49 front. Ya I definitely need to mess around with the clickers as well but figured because of my weight that I will need springs atleast. I wouldn't mind getting a shop to revalve and everything but don't know of any in Alberta Canada that do good work

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crap, I didn't see the "XC" after his model. :banana:

I know that the forks are quite different but isn't the rear shock the same on the xc and xc-w? Ya street close ime right around 230 lbs so if you get the rear dialed the info would be greatly appresiated.

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If you are 255 with gear you def are at least 8.2 rear and 46+ for the fronts prob close to 49's. The newer 2010's need a lighter spring in the rear than the 09's and older did, but that has already been stated in the above posts. Get the springs. You can adjust all you want but its going to be soft and bottom at your weight. You wont be able to get the sag right. Once the springs are in you will be GTG. I am 215lbs in street cloths and it was the first thing I noticed I needed to change.

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How hard are the fork springs to change? Do you just take off the top caps pull out the old ones and slide in new ones?

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How hard are the fork springs to change? Do you just take off the top caps pull out the old ones and slide in new ones?

XCW's seem pretty straght forward being that they are open chambered forks. THe XC's on the other hand, I believe would be better left to someone that knows what they are doing.

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When I check MX-tech's calc they say an 8.2 rear and .49 front. Ya I definitely need to mess around with the clickers as well but figured because of my weight that I will need springs atleast. I wouldn't mind getting a shop to revalve and everything but don't know of any in Alberta Canada that do good work

I wouldn't worry about a revalve, YET. Get the springs done, set the clickers and let the shims break in.

I know that the forks are quite different but isn't the rear shock the same on the xc and xc-w? Ya street close ime right around 230 lbs so if you get the rear dialed the info would be greatly appresiated.

No, The XC has a high speed adjustment and historically had different valving. I am not up to date on the 10's though.

If you are 255 with gear you def are at least 8.2 rear and 46+ for the fronts prob close to 49's. The newer 2010's need a lighter spring in the rear than the 09's and older did, but that has already been stated in the above posts. Get the springs. You can adjust all you want but its going to be soft and bottom at your weight. You wont be able to get the sag right. Once the springs are in you will be GTG. I am 215lbs in street cloths and it was the first thing I noticed I needed to change.

I ran a progressive 8-10lb spring on the rear of my 07 SX's with very good success. I know it's not exact, but that equates to an average of around 9.0. IMHO, it's better to err on the heavy side. KTM's like less preload. I would be curious to see what sag #'s/spring rates are for some folks your size that own the 10's. Also, I have had friends that weigh 30lbs lighter than me, compliment on well my bike rode, even with too heavy a spring. There is no perfect spring set up, so keep that in mind.

How hard are the fork springs to change? Do you just take off the top caps pull out the old ones and slide in new ones?

The OC forks are simple to change springs, to a degree. Your XC has the newer TC forks, which are a different beast all together. IMHO, you need to know what you are doing with both, but the OC is simpler.

I would buy a used spring off ktmtalk, that way if it's wrong, you can easily get your money back. I did this a couple times trying to get mine right. I think I would be happier with a 9.2-9.4, but the 9.0 is working for the moment.

I would choose fork springs based on your riding style, terrain, and of course, size. I run 42's, race HS's and ride mid pack B. I don't jump much anything over a water break. I am supposed to have 44's in there, but that's another story. My 42's work great for my application, I never bottom. Valving can control some of this. You are only 15lbs heavier than me and the bikes weigh about the same. I don't know that I would go 49's in the front unless you can get them used, or your riding style, terrain dictates.

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Gmoss is correct on his thinking for the front springs. I am 215 pre gear and run 46's up front BUT I like a stiffer front end. At 255 with gear you might like the 46's or even 44's for a plusher ride. I also use Flexx bars so I kinda of cheat a little by getting a lot of hack taken out by the bars and still have the stiffer ride. It will all matter on what you ride and how you want it to feel. With the guys here like Gmoss and such I am sure you will get it all worked out.

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Ya I hope so. I'm still currious on if I'll be able to do the forks myself or if I need to find someone to do it. If anyone knows if I need special tools or any difficulties that would be a huge help.

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Ya I hope so. I'm still currious on if I'll be able to do the forks myself or if I need to find someone to do it. If anyone knows if I need special tools or any difficulties that would be a huge help.

Cletus, I would just take your XC forks to someone that is knowledgeable with closed Chambered forks. If you had the XCW Open champered, it would be a cake walk.

Just find a reputable suspension shop in your area and ask them how much they would charge to change out the springs, if it's the same as a fluid swap, then pay for that and just have them throw the new springs in instead of the stock.

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Ya I hope so. I'm still currious on if I'll be able to do the forks myself or if I need to find someone to do it. If anyone knows if I need special tools or any difficulties that would be a huge help.

as XR says, you will be better off to take them somewhere, IMHO. It's easy enough to screw up the OC forks... and yes, you do need a couple of special tools. There are likely some videos on the subject that can walk you thur the process. A spring swap should be a fairly inexpensive swap for most tuners, especially with the hopes of getting future revalve business.

Hopefully someone with the newer forks, that has experience with both will chime in. I just know that even the OC forks require you to know a few things to get it done PROPERLY.

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So Who's springs are the best bang for the buck? I want to go new and with a 8.4 rear and 0.46 fronts.

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So Who's springs are the best bang for the buck? I want to go new and with a 8.4 rear and 0.46 fronts.

why go new? you end up paying more than double sometimes and you may find that you don't have the right size. IMHO, I would buy used till I at least knew I had the right spring, then if you want a shiny new one, spring for it. :banana: LOL If you are buying a SR, then a PDS KTM spring is the way to go.

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why go new? you end up paying more than double sometimes and you may find that you don't have the right size. IMHO, I would buy used till I at least knew I had the right spring, then if you want a shiny new one, spring for it. :banana: LOL If you are buying a SR, then a PDS KTM spring is the way to go.

Those heavier springs are pretty hard to find used. The stock ones seem to be far more plenty. The highest I've seen was a 8.0 rear.

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Those heavier springs are pretty hard to find used. The stock ones seem to be far more plenty. The highest I've seen was a 8.0 rear.

I have never had a problem finding a used spring on ktmtalk. I just put a WTB ad on there and someone responds. It's easier than you think. I went thru 3 springs before settling on the spring I have now. I am one to try to get the best performance I can, which kept me experimenting till I was happy. Suspension is so personal, there is a hard line on what will work for your weight, it's worth experimenting with a couple of sizes around what is suggested.

with the 8.4 rear, sag was off but within spec, bike rode ok. 8.8 was closer. 9.2 ended up with good sag #'s, but just felt too stiff. The 9.0 has been the best. If I go to the websites, they don't recommend the 42's or the 9.0 I run.

I also spent over 2 months making my own valving changes, finally giving up and letting the professionals take care of it. It's so nice to just ride!

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