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Need Opinions On Break-In and Oil Changes

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Hey everyone, The weather is finally starting to get nice here in NW Indiana, and I am going to be riding my Brand New 2007 Honda CRF 450 for the first time soon. Please excuse the lack of 4-stroke knowledge as this is my first 4-stroke, after many 2-strokes.

I bought a Brand New 2007 Honda CRF450R (leftover) back in Janurary......It has only been started twice...once by the dealer while i was signing the papers...and i started it once in my garage and let it idle for a minute.

Now my Questions:

1. Should i change the engine and trans oil before riding the bike for the first time???? (I am paranoid that the oil has been in the bike since 2007 and it is too old, and may not lubricate properly). What do you guys think???

2. How long should i go easy on the engine for, and how should i ride the bike when i do ride it for the first time???

3. Is there anything else i should do special the first time i ride it????

Thanks for any and all opinions,

Jon

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Oil doesn't go bad just sitting in the bike. A motocross track is a the perfect place to break-in a new bike. Just thoroughly warm it up for 1-2 minutes before getting on the track, then ride normally without bouncing it off the rev limiter. Not real hard, and not real slow. After your first 15-20 minute practice session, come in a let the bike cool off completely. The bike is now broken in and ready to ride hard. Change the oil and filter after the first day of riding. Make sure the oil is hot when you drain it. The gets all the debris suspended in the oil so it doesn't settle in any nooks or crannies. Use 700cc of oil in both the tranny and the crankcase.

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I would recommend replacing both the oil and filter before you take er out and break it in. I personally use Motul 5500 semi-synthetic, but Honda recommends their own oils (of course they would). I have always used the Motul oil since I bought my bike brand new in 06' and when I took my engine apart for a rebuild there was virtually no wear on piston skirt, cylinder walls, and even the piston rings were virtually new, only thing I had to replace was the intake valves. I change my oil every 3 hard rides, and a new filter every second oil change. I had over 350+ hours on my bike before I rebuilt it as well :banana: As for breaking it in I would recommend finding a nice long hill and lug er' down in a higher gear as much as you can to get the piston rings properly seated and combustion pressures right up to normal operating pressures to make sure all your systems are operating properly, this means making sure you have proper air/fuel ratio for your altitude and ambient air temp, consult your service manual to get the proper needle adjustment specs. No one wants to break their engine in on a lean a/f mixture. As for length of time, id give it a solid three rides of lugging er' down, change oil, change/check oil filter for metal pieces (there shouldnt be any), and give er balls on the next ride. Have fun with yer new toy, I doubt you will ever want to go back to a two-stroke again :lol:

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Oil doesn't go bad just sitting in the bike.QUOTE]

Yes oil does go bad, especially after it has been warmed up to operating temperatures. Condensation collects in the crankcase and ends up in the oil, certain additives will eventually pool near the bottom and heavy metals will pool in the bottom, which will help start sludge formation. I took a few courses on lubricants from castrol, petro-can, and esso and practice these teachings on the $550,000 plus engines that come through my shop. I have seen what stale oil does to your bearings, seals, and operating surfaces.

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I would recommend replacing both the oil and filter before you take er out and break it in. I personally use Motul 5500 semi-synthetic, but Honda recommends their own oils (of course they would).

Never break-in an engine on synthetic oil! The rings will not seat properly and you will get blow-by!

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Yes oil does go bad, especially after it has been warmed up to operating temperatures. Condensation collects in the crankcase and ends up in the oil, certain additives will eventually pool near the bottom and heavy metals will pool in the bottom, which will help start sludge formation. I took a few courses on lubricants from castrol, petro-can, and esso and practice these teachings on the $550,000 plus engines that come through my shop. I have seen what stale oil does to your bearings, seals, and operating surfaces.

Motor oil has a five year shelf life. The oil in this guys new 2007 will be fine.

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I would do a warm up in the garage and a quick spin around the neighborhood/yard and do a quick oil change before the CamP or Motoman break-in techniques. I've been using a similar approach to the Motoman tips and have had great luck - I don't use any oil or get any significant blow-by.

I second using a strict dino oil break in (no synthetics on my first 2 oil changes).

Doing a quick change before your break-in will give you piece of mind. Cheap insurance and you'll never doubt yourself. Why not?

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Okay guys, I hate to open a can of worms here but.......

Why do some of you state no syn on break in? I look forward to reading your response.

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Okay guys, I hate to open a can of worms here but.......

Why do some of you state no syn on break in? I look forward to reading your response.

Synthetic oil is too slippery to allow the rings to seat in properly which allows blow-by that leads to glazed cylinder wall.

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I would do a warm up in the garage and a quick spin around the neighborhood/yard and do a quick oil change before the CamP or Motoman break-in techniques. I've been using a similar approach to the Motoman tips and have had great luck - I don't use any oil or get any significant blow-by.

I second using a strict dino oil break in (no synthetics on my first 2 oil changes).

Doing a quick change before your break-in will give you piece of mind. Cheap insurance and you'll never doubt yourself. Why not?

Read through that motoman break-in technique. He states that you should resist the urge to fire up the bike at all until you are ready to break-in the bike. I agree with him on that.

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no synhetics during breakin. heat cycle it, change the oil, then heat it up, and ride it like you stole it.......not the limiter though...........

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Thanks guys, one more quick question.....I was reading the manual and it says to grease the spring behind the oil filter.

What do you guys exactally do??? and what grease do you use???

Will i be allright putting Bel-ray waterproof grease on the end of the spring???

Thanks,

Jon

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Thanks guys, one more quick question.....I was reading the manual and it says to grease the spring behind the oil filter.

What do you guys exactally do??? and what grease do you use???

Will i be allright putting Bel-ray waterproof grease on the end of the spring???

Thanks,

Jon

Grease the filter end of the spring to keep it from falling out of place while you install it.

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Ok so basically i put some Bel-Ray waterproof grease on the end of the spring and stick it into the oil filter.......The grease then holds the spring in place.....and then i insert the oil filter WITH the spring in the back side into the engine and then finally install the oil filter cover.

Does this sound correct?!?

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Double check all of your fluids and grease all you bearings if you plan on owning it for a while. My 08' came without transmission fluid, and half of the bearings weren't packed with grease. Always good to go through any bike you buy, used or new. JMO. :banana: And yes, you are correct on the oil filter.

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Ok so basically i put some Bel-Ray waterproof grease on the end of the spring and stick it into the oil filter.......The grease then holds the spring in place.....and then i insert the oil filter WITH the spring in the back side into the engine and then finally install the oil filter cover.

Does this sound correct?!?

Exactly :banana:

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