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Kawasaki 2009 KLX stock and Dynojet

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Hello Fellas;

I am looking for some input, here is the scenario...

I have a completely STOCK 2009 KLX 250S and I want to install the DYNO jet kit, the one I ordered is the 2152, which includes stage 1 and stage 2 setups.

so my question based on scenario is as follows:

if I decide to leave everything stock, would you go with stage #1 setup? and why?

also what about the fuel mixture screw, it states 3 turns out, everywhere else I read it has been 2.5. I am located in ottawa ontario canada, so maybe due to sea level this should be altered or is there no effect.

I know enough to stay with stock pilot and I see that I don't drill the slide if I use the dyno jet spring that comes in the kit, as it provides easier travel than the stock OEM spring.

lastly would you recommend that I pull the air box snorkel or change it for the kdx snorkel? if so would I see any benefit to allowing more air in, or would there be an adverse effect seeing that I am staying with the stock muffler.

lastly if you recommend opening up the air flow and removing the snorkel altogether, or the kdx snorkel then would I opt for the #stage2 setup from the dynojet kit, basically the same setup just larger main jet from what I can tell.

any advice or experience is greatly appreciated...cheers Mac

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Go with stage 2 setup.

Remove Snorkel, Stock Pilot, I drilled the slide. I also had a end cap on my muffler that was very restrictive. It had to be removed. after those few things i was very happy with what i got out of the Dyno jet kit. Small amount of money that gave nice improvement.

Good luck

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Thanks for your input, I have removed the snorkel and will be going with the stage#2 setup in the dynojet instructions.....

2009-2010 Kawasaki KLX250S

Stage 1 & 2

STAGE 1

For mildly tuned machines using the stock airbox,

with stock or K&N filter.

STAGE 2

For mildly tuned machines using stock airbox with intake

snorkel removed, with the stock or K&N filter.

Both stages may be used with a good aftermarket exhaust

1. Remove the vacuum slides from the carbs. Remove the stock needle

and spacers, noting order of assembly (Fig. A).

2. Install the Dynojet needle on groove #3 from the top. Install the small

Dynojet washers above the e-clip. Install the Dynojet slide spring

(DSP027) in place of the stock slide spring. After installing the slide in the

carb be sure to check slide movement manually.

3. Remove the stock main jet and replace with the Dynojet main jet

provided. If you are running the stock exhaust install the DJ124 main jet.

If you are running an aftermarket exhaust or slip-on with high

flowing baffle use the DJ128 main jet. Be sure that the jet you are

changing is the main jet.

4. Locate the fuel mixture plug (Fig. :banana:. If you see a screw head at Fig.B

then proceed to the adjusting procedure. With the 5/32 drill bit provided

carefully drill through the plug. NOTE: The mixture screw is directly

underneath this plug, be ready to pull back on the drill the instant you

break through. Use screw provided to secure and remove this plug.

Carefully turn the mixture screw clockwise until lightly seated, then back out 3 turns.

cheers Mac

Go with stage 2 setup.

Remove Snorkel, Stock Pilot, I drilled the slide. I also had a end cap on my muffler that was very restrictive. It had to be removed. after those few things i was very happy with what i got out of the Dyno jet kit. Small amount of money that gave nice improvement.

Good luck

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Enjoy. You WILL want a nice after market Pipe in a while. Once you've been riding around for a few months you are going to start thinking about how your only $150 away from a good amout more power through the power band. OFF TO A GOOD START.

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Can't say much about the 09 and 10 model cos they are not avialable here in Malaysia.

But I got some great results from my brand new 07 model.

The model was not restricted, and was good on stock. But I need more power for the 45% climbs up some of the hills where I ride.

I got a Two Brothers VALE M7 slip on, and experimented with the carbs and sprockets et up.

In the end, this is what suits my kind of riding.....once I installed the TBR M7.

KDX snorkel

Main 125, pilot 38, 2.5 turns out.

Drilled slider hole to a bigger one.

Stayed with stock sprockets as front 13t gave me shorter oull instead on longer pull when I am climbing 45% slopes.

The combination still gave me 28plus km per litre on road and 23plus km per litre off road including long uphill climbs...

That was all that is need from the KLX ...no other mods...

except for :

Additional swithch to turn off the lights (battery preserving)

Kick starter in case the battery goes flat in the woods.

Ordered a bigger tank, -still to be delivered to me..

Handling improvements.

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