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02 CRF450r Valves?????? With PICTURES


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:bonk:I took the head off my bike, wanting to go over it and spend more money on it:smirk: With the head off I sprayed wd-40 in the intake and exhuast ports and had minimal leakage around intake valves and a little more on the exhuast ones. Is it normal to have some leakage? If I redo the head, should I put the stock valves in it or convert to the stainless setup.I dont race the bike, I have it setup for tight single track trail riding. What would be my best bet?👍

Edited by fawkur
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Leakage is normal especially if they have not been done before , or for a long time , most of the leakage on the exhaust is carbon buildup , the intakes could be worn , how bad depends on valve lash

Were the valves zeroed out ?? , or were they still within spec ?

Going to Stainless(Intake only) is always a better choice , the only way you would notice the difference from Stainless to Titanium would be at the highest of Pro levels , like RC or Stewart , and even then the HP gain is minimal , just less rotating mass and unsprung weight , means it takes less effort for the motor to get to the given HP limit (torque) , but for trail riding , or even on the track(i ride mine on both with just gearing and gas tank change) , the stainless work just fine and will give longer life between adjustments and replacement , and they are cheaper than Titanium , mine were $65.00 for the Intakes, and i got 1mm oversize on my 450X , the 02 R's are already 1mm larger !

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I bought the bike of a guy and he said he did the valves on it and has 8 hours on the top end,It was too hard to start last time out so I since took the valve cover off and checked the lash. Looks to me like he only did the intake valves judging by the carbon build up on the exhuast valves. Seems like a lot for 8hrs (see pictures)

This is what I measured before I took it apart. Rt intake .127mm Lt was zeroed out, but could be shimmed as it had a 200 on it with zero clearnace, was going to put a 150 in there.But that means it dropped like .50mm isnt that a lot?

Rt exhuast .254 Lt .356. I was going to reshim the valves, but thought I would take the head off and have a look.

Problem is I dont know what I am looking at other than doing the leak test with the wd40 and noticing the leakage.

The intake side leaked a little and then stopped and held the wd40over night. But the exhuast side leaked out over night.

So not sure on what to do, rebuild the head or do just the exhuast side?👍 I was thinking of taking it to a machine shop and getting it looked over.

P3200052.jpg

P3200051.jpg

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If you have a valve spring compressor , or a large C clamp and a socket , you can remove the intakes , what you want to look for is the face(the face is the part that touches the seat) is not cupped , it should be a straight shot on the entire face , if its cupped then i doubt it has 8 hrs on it , more like 180 , if the exhaust are cupped then it definately has hours on it , when i put new intakes in my 450X it had over 1,600 miles on it so i am sure it was in the 400 or so hour range , the Intakes were cupped and had a sharp edge when you rubbed your finger across the face , i still have the original exhaust valves in it , it now has 2,027 miles on it , so basically 400+ miles so about 80 hours since new intakes , and the valves are exactly where they were when i installed them and set the gap , if that tells you anything !

oh and the carbon in the pic does not look real bad , but i would say it has a lot more than 8 hours , maybe closer to 20 , the carbon is going to depend on the type of riding , if its slow low RPM trail riding , it will build up carbon deposits faster than if you were WFO in the desert all the time !

if your going to take it to a machine shop make sure they know how to do a 4 stroke head , if they only do automotive and nothing else , then find someone else , as the angle of the cut and valve depth is very important ! , find out where the dirtbike dealers are taking them and go there , if they cut the seat too deep , the head will be toast unless they put in bronze inserts

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Ya I know of a great place to go. Took my valve out, and its cuped.I think I am going to rebuild the head it with oem parts and just maintain it properly as I will now know what has been done to it.

P3200058.jpg

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I went with Ferrea 1mm oversize Stainless intakes in my 450X , my exhaust valves were fine , same goes for my 02 450R , I went with Stainless intakes , the exhaust were fine , they are cheaper than Titanium , and will last at least 3-4 times as long

This is where i got mine

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330411059622&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=7ea4a14e1270a0366164d334fffa10de&rvr_id=&ua=WXI7&itemid=330411059622

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I see, so you changed the springs and everything? What did it run (cost) you for all of that?

Is this like what you put in yours? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stainless-Valve-Spring-Intake-Kit-CRF450-CRF450R-05-8_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563a806186QQitemZ370348679558QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Do you replace the seats or get them cut for the new stainless valves?

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lol i was editing while you were posting , and no just valves , i used the original springs and retainers as everything was still in spec ! , and the price of the valves is on the link , then top end gasket set was around $35.00 and machine work was around $75.00

so around $175.00 , and a couple hours of my time , but if your springs and retainers are wore out , then that link you posted isnt a bad price !

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I have read that if you put stainless valves on titanium springs, the valves will float after hitting the throttle hard and then letting off due to the fact the stainless valves weigh more and need stronger springs.Which in turn may cuase the piston to hit a floating valve, and gernade the motor?

So you left the stock springs on the intake and put in stainless valves? You have not had any problems?👍

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Hey no prob , glad i could help !

And no i have not had any problems , but remember i trail ride my X so i never get close to the rev limiter , so valves are never going to float , and even when i screw off and ride harder , i still dont get near the rev limiter , i can run it on the MX track and do decent against the race bikes , and still stay off the limiter ,

My R i ride on a GP and MX track , pretty hard , and have not had any issues with it either , but again , you will never hear me hitting the limiter off every jump like a lot of people do , i usually run a gear high , so when everyone is floating the valves in 3rd , i am in 4th going by them

When i put my Hotcam stage 1 in my X i was talking to them about valves and springs (that is why i went with the 1mm larger in the X) and they said as long as i am not bouncing off the limiter all the time , valve float/piston damage , would not be a issue , when you watch guys like Dungey or worse yet Barcia , on the limiter all the time , that is what makes the valves float and hit pistons , also if your motor is real old and run hard , then yes springs would be a good thing to do

Like i said , that link you showed with the entire kit , would be fine and is a decent price , and if it worries you , then it will give you the security and knowlege that you have all matched components !

for me , i dont ride hard enough to warrant the extra money when i can spend it on something else ...remember i am 50 not 20 so i have a little throttle control , not much but enough to keep the engine together for a while , my 06 X is on the original piston and rings , and i have only gone thru 1 set of brake pads since i bought the bike new , still have the original clutch and brake levers and handlebars on the bike and that is with 2027 miles on the motor and bike !

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WOW, thats awsome!

Ya I am 35 and a little hard on the throttle and may bounce of the rev limiter here and there.I like to be near the top of the gear when I ride to have that snap. But that will wear off as I have just gone from a cr250r to the crf450r and still need to adjust to the all around power, not just powerband!

Thanks again! After talking with you I will do the springs as well for peice of mind and the odd hard throttle.👍

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Yea you really dont need to hit the limiter on a 450 , it will pull like there is no tomorrow even at lower RPMS , and you will still be flying , that is why i run the next gear up most of the time than what other guys run , the bike will do anything you want at half throttle , and if you get in a jam , then you still got another half to go , and then you really have to hold on

Most riders hit the limiter because of what you said , coming off a smaller bike , you have to ride near the top to get the smaller bike to clear a lot of stuff , it just runs out of power if you dont , so the habit transfers to the big bike , but if you really get the feel for the big bike you will find it will sound like you are putting around even when your passing everyone , you just have to let your ears get used to lower RPM and having power , maybe try riding wearing ear plugs so you cant hear anything and let the feel of the bike dictate what gear to be in to get the best out of the motor instead of how high the rpm is , you would be suprised what the bike can do and what good lap times you will get at half throttle !

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