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How is an XR250L choke supposed to work?


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When I bought this bike the choke nut was broken at the bracket (on the top end) and duct tape was used to hold it there. The choke seemed to work, sorta. I took the duct tape off to see if I could make a better arrangement, and now I find that the choke does not stay engaged. If I pull it out, the spring on the choke at the carb just pulls it back down again. Probably should have left well enough alone, eh? 👍 Not that it was completely engaging before.

All I can tell is that this setup depends on cable friction to keep the choke knob pulled out, and somehow I don't have enough friction. There's no oil in the cable...

Is that correct? Will a new cable work?

I don't even like choke cables, and would prefer to operate it at the carb, but I can't see any way to convert it. If the choke return spring can open the choke against the pull of the cable, then it sure won't have any problem doing it without any cable. Or should I unhook that spring?

If you have any idea how to fix or mod this, let me know. As it is I will have to hold it out as I'm trying to kick it, which probably won't work too well.

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and now I find that the choke does not stay engaged. If I pull it out, the spring on the choke at the carb just pulls it back down again.
I may have this wrong, it's been so long ago...

The black plastic assembly that the clutch cable passes through that is up near the handlebars has a cable locking nut. Pull the cable to engage the clutch, then tighten the top of the plastic assembly like you would a nut. Loosen to release the cable lock. I seem to remember that this was on my 91 XR250L...

You can also remove the cable and mount completely and install a manual lever on the carb itself. If you decide to do this, I'll help you find the parts needed.

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The nut is a tensioner. The tighter you kept the nut the more friction on the cable. It's meant to be set once and only adjust as needed. You can try the duct tape method or find a new choke cable. It comes with the assembly in question, Bike bandit lists it at just over $20.

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I'll help you find the parts needed.

Wow, that would be great! I'd appreciate this help.

The nut cant be tightened because the threaded part is broken off. So I think I will go with a carb-mounted choke if that is doable.

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OK I figured out how to tighten that broken end of the choke by grabbing it with a plyers while tightening the ring.

ramz I hope you can get me an idea what to order soon. I went to change my oil and found the O-rings trashed and the local Honda dealer didn't have them, so I have to make an internet order anyway. Would be nice to order these choke parts along with the O-rings...

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Although my choke mounting assembely is undamaged...my cable does the same thing and automatically goes back down when pulled...is an adjustment needed on that nut to put more "tension" on the cable to make it stay up or is that the way it's supposed to be?

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Although my choke mounting assembely is undamaged...my cable does the same thing and automatically goes back down when pulled...is an adjustment needed on that nut to put more "tension" on the cable to make it stay up or is that the way it's supposed to be?

Likely. Try it out, you won't hurt anything if you do it by hand.

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That's right, tighten the nut some more. However just tighten enough to get it to stick. These things are just plastic and break easily, like mine did. I'm sure mine was broken by the previous owner trying to put more tension on it.

It's almost like the choke return spring is too strong for this design to work properly. Or some sand needs to be added to the choke cable!

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  • 2 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...

How often do you realy need to use your choke? Once a day for me. I have a 94 L. I stripped off everything I could to save weight including the choke cable. Without the cable the choke can be positioned by hand and held in place with a loop of ziptie until the bike is started. I may have this backwards. You may need the ziptie to hold the choke open after the bike has started. Either way it was an easy fix.

My bike also has a pumper carb stock. Most mornings just two pumps with no choke gets it started (I've changed the jetting and adjusted the fuel screw to make it happy).

Additional help for setting up an L for offroad can be found on 4stokes.com by Rick Ramsey. I thought that this site had disapeared, but I found it again today.

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