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Mechanic did right by me...worked out in the end

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My bike seized the other day, I pulled it apart and could see that it was the big end rod bearing. I pretty much expected this to happen since it was the only part of the bike I did not replace.

I pulled the side covers, cylinder and reeds off the engine then took it to the shop to have it fixed (I am not a big fan of pulling bottom ends apart).

When I picked it up today the mechanic said "be careful not to bump the shifter"

I asked him why and he said "if you bump the shifter before the cover is back on it will pop out of place and then it will not shift".

So I took it home,put it all back together and sure as shit it does not shift.

Did he set me up to have to bring the engine back and spend more money or is this really true, is it possible to "bump the shifter and have anything "pop out of place" that would make it fail to shift?

I have replaced the shift shaft before and I have never had any problems getting it to shift afterwards. I am wondering if he ****ed up something in the tranny and this is the cover story to make it seem like its my fault.

ETA: when I picked it up it was in gear, I thought this was a little odd I figured it would be in neutral.

Update: It went back to the shop and was fixed free of charge, it works fine now. Everything worked out well in the end.

Edited by Dac1915

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Not sure about a 2 stroke bottom end, in my XR400 i dont remember anything like that.

What cover are you talking about though?

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right hand side cover, it is the big cover that covers the kickstart mechanism, clutch, waterpump drive and powervalve drive, It has a big hole in it that the clutch access cover goes over.

And this thing does not shift, not at all The shift mechanism moves but teh ratchet part does not move at all.

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Put load on your countershaft or else it wont shift, wiggle the countershaft around while changing gears

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On the YZ's, the shift shaft I believe is retained by the clutch side outer case, just before the clutch cover. It goes onto the shifting guide, but if it's popped off you can just "pop" it back on.

If your basket is still installed it will be hard to see, but there are two bolts that retain the shift guide assembly, so as far as I know it would not have popped that off as well.

Take off the basket and have a look before you bring it back, the shaft with adjoining flange should slide onto the shift guide.

The parts manual shows you how to install it, if you have one.

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I have the manual.

I have the cover off and can see the 2 tines on the shift shaft interacting with the ratchet mechanism. I put a load on both the clutch and the countershaft and the ratchet mechanism does not do anything, it moves a little but not enough to engage the next gear, it just rocks a little bit and thats all.

I have replaced the shift shaft on a few bikes before so I have a pretty good idea how it should work and this is not working like it should.

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On the YZ's, the shift shaft I believe is retained by the clutch side outer case, just before the clutch cover. It goes onto the shifting guide, but if it's popped off you can just "pop" it back on.

If your basket is still installed it will be hard to see, but there are two bolts that retain the shift guide assembly, so as far as I know it would not have popped that off as well.

Take off the basket and have a look before you bring it back, the shaft with adjoining flange should slide onto the shift guide.

The parts manual shows you how to install it, if you have one.

Thats exactly how my YZ125 is set up. I just did my bottom end and I remember this clearly.

The 250 might be different but on the 125 its really hard to tell if the shift shaft is engaged in the ratchet arm when the basket is installed. Its right behind the basket and it can come off when the basket is installed.

I would triple check and make sure the shaft is engaged in the ratchet. I would pull the basket just to make 10% sure

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The shifter shaft tines are engaged to the ratchet, when I push the shifter it moved the ratchet a little but not enough for the tension roller to engage the next detent. I can put a load on the countershaft when the shifter is pushed down (and the ratchet is moved part way) but it does not do anything.

The shifter moves about 3/4 of the way through hits normal range of motion and moves the ratchet about 3/4 of the way but it does not go all the way.

It will not move any farther at all, it is solid. If I put any more preasure on it it will break.

The bike shifter perfectly before I took it to the shop.

I find it very suspect that teh mechanic would specificaly warn me about doing something that would make it not shift (when that thing I might do should not have any effect at all)

I know for a fact that i could take the whole shift shaft right out of the bike throw it on the ground, kick it a few times, then put it right back in and it would work fine. "bumping" it should have no effect on how it shifts.

I could even take the shift shaft out and put a pair of vice grips on the ratchet and I should be able to shift it that way if I wanted to (I was going to try this but I don' really feel like putting vice grips on my ratchet part, I can see its not moving enough without messing it up)

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My bike seized the other day, I pulled it apart and could see that it was the big end rod bearing. I pretty much expected this to happen since it was the only part of the bike I did not replace.

I dont mean to rub this in your face, What kind of machanic did you take your motor to? Why would you take your motor to a machanic you don't trust. What is the machanic telling you about his work? Did you pay the guy? He should back up his ability to preform good service. I would take a motor back in a second if it wasn't working correctly. If this guy cant rebuild a simple single cylinder motorcycle engine he is no machanic. The best advise I can give you is learn how to do your own work then you can only blame yourself when things go wrong. You need to get a service manual, read it and learn it. You must understand how to rebuild a motor top to botom, other wise you will subject your self to geting riped off by these sht machanics. I dont know what else to say.

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I just disconnected the spring that holds the two tines forward to engage the ratchet, this totally disconnected the shift shaft from the ratchet mechanism. then i tried to turn the ratchet manualy with a pair of vice grips (I just could not resist trying even though I did not want to do it). The ratchet only moved about 3/4 of the amount it should have.

It is obvious to me now that the mechanic ****ed something up when re-assembling and did not want to undo it to fix it, so he tried to cover it up by making up some dumb ass story which would make the issue my fault.

I am pretty pissed, this job cost me $400 and now my bike does not shift!

The wierd thing is that this is a reputable shop who I heard good things about, I drove an hour and a half (3 hours round trip) to drop the engine off, then an hour and a half (3 round trip) to pick it up.

I am not looking forward to another 6 hours on the road to get it corrected.

I will be calling them tomorrow and seeing what they say first, then calling my CC company and seeing about a stop payment.

This really sucks and puts a huge damper on me getting to race next weekend.

I am starting to doubt if the sport is worth all the expense and aggravation I have to deal with.

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Now that this thread is off the rails and turned into a CF.

What would be the most common cause for it to not shift? Maybe not having teh shift forks properly aligned with the drum? Whenever I have done a bottom end I always make sure its in neutral when I take it apart and make sure its in neutral when I put it together. This is why I was a bit supprised when I got it home and found it to be in gear.

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Shift forks could be switched around, though I think most of them are idiot-proofed enough to prevent that.

Is it in gear or locked up?

It takes about two minutes to take out all of the case bolts, and should probably take another three to fanagle the cases apart.

By the way, you're kind of an over-reactive douchebag. I'm only trying to help because there's an innocent transmission being held hostage.

Second page and we're still guessing what bike you have? I'll guess a 125 of some sort.

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I dont mean to rub this in your face, What kind of machanic did you take your motor to? Why would you take your motor to a machanic you don't trust. What is the machanic telling you about his work? Did you pay the guy? He should back up his ability to preform good service. I would take a motor back in a second if it wasn't working correctly. If this guy cant rebuild a simple single cylinder motorcycle engine he is no machanic. The best advise I can give you is learn how to do your own work then you can only blame yourself when things go wrong. You need to get a service manual, read it and learn it. You must understand how to rebuild a motor top to botom, other wise you will subject your self to geting riped off by these sht machanics. I dont know what else to say.

Alright bro; Where do I say in this post that you deserve to have a blown motor? Where in this post I'm I insaulting you? I'm not the one wasting my money having machanics rebuild my motors. You probably just knocked the forks off the shift drum when you were transporting the thing back to your house. Dont try to insualt me I was merely trying to help by stating the machanic should take the motor back and fix it.

Just how the heck is it possible to knock the forks off the shift drum transporting it? Its an MX bike, moving it from point A to point B should not knock internal engine parts loose. Do you really have any idea how a motorcycle transmission even works?

ETA: I am not your Bro.

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Shift forks could be switched around, though I think most of them are idiot-proofed enough to prevent that.

Is it in gear or locked up?

It takes about two minutes to take out all of the case bolts, and should probably take another three to fanagle the cases apart.

By the way, you're kind of an over-reactive douchebag. I'm only trying to help because there's an innocent transmission being held hostage.

Second page and we're still guessing what bike you have? I'll guess a 125 of some sort.

What is with you guys claiming to "be on my side" or " wanting to help" and then calling me names or saying I don't know anything about anything?

Its a KX125, I have a feeling that it has something to do with the shift forks too. I put a CR250 back together that I got in a cardboard box and the first time I put the forks in wrong and it did not shift, I switched them and it worked... that was a 1986 though.

Its in gear, I tried to turn the ratchet part and it just does not move enough for the tension roller to drop ointo the next detent.

I could split the cases, but that kind of makes the whole thing a waste of money. I am gonna see what the shop says tomorow, if they are willing to fix it I may let them, if tehy tell me that they are gonna charge me to fix it then I will just call my CC company and file for a charge back and fix it myself.

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The quotes got screwed up on the first page, so I thought you threw the first insult. Sorry.

Race motors for 12 years..... please, I doubt you are more than 12 , why don't you go back to playing on your 65 and dreaming about gettin an 80 someday.

That seemed like it came out of nowhere though.

Anyways.

Is it locked up or stuck in one gear?

Take the thing apart. If you rebuilt five motors already for fun and profit this year, you must not be a complete mechanical-tard. Transmissions are easy, the only annoying thing about them is that you have to have the engine out of the frame, and the top end off. Also the clutch hub is not fun. Since you already have those parts done, the rest of it is tinkertoys.

Every 6-speed I've encountered has had the same layout of gears, and mostly the same placing of clips and shims.

Use a rubber mallet instead of a hammer.

If you use a screwdriver to pry on the cases, go very easy on it and try to use shims so you're not prying on the metal.

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Are you talking about this ratcheting part that is not going completely into the next indent?

gearbox1.jpg

That is my xr400 and i had that problem, it would only go 1 gear forward or back than halfway into the next gear. I was worried i put it back together wrong so i took it to mech and he showed me to put load on the countershaft to make it go

I know you said thats not the case but i thought id post the picture to see if thats what your talking about

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Are you talking about this ratcheting part that is not going completely into the next indent?

gearbox1.jpg

That is my xr400 and i had that problem, it would only go 1 gear forward or back than halfway into the next gear. I was worried i put it back together wrong so i took it to mech and he showed me to put load on the countershaft to make it go

I know you said thats not the case but i thought id post the picture to see if thats what your talking about

yes, that is the detent, that only goes part way. I do not know how much more I can load the countershaft; I can put tension on the shifter which pulls the ratchet mechanism 3/4 of the way into the next detent, then I can spin the countershaft and the clutch spins. I know that what will normaly happen is that the dogs in the tranny will engage and pull the gears into themselves when the countershaft is loaded and at the same time teh shifter will move into the next detent, this does not happen with mine it simply spins and the shifter holds firm against the ratchet.

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The quotes got screwed up on the first page, so I thought you threw the first insult. Sorry.

That seemed like it came out of nowhere though.

Anyways.

Is it locked up or stuck in one gear?

Take the thing apart. If you rebuilt five motors already for fun and profit this year, you must not be a complete mechanical-tard. Transmissions are easy, the only annoying thing about them is that you have to have the engine out of the frame, and the top end off. Also the clutch hub is not fun. Since you already have those parts done, the rest of it is tinkertoys.

Every 6-speed I've encountered has had the same layout of gears, and mostly the same placing of clips and shims.

Use a rubber mallet instead of a hammer.

If you use a screwdriver to pry on the cases, go very easy on it and try to use shims so you're not prying on the metal.

The two screwdriver method scares the hell out of me. I may just buy a case splitter with the money I get back from the CC chargeback, then this will be a non issue. The only problem is that its coming down to a matter of time and money. This job ate up all my budget and I do not know how much time its gonna take to get my money back so I can correct this issue.

Having a job that requires me to travel makes things really tough too.

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