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I have 2 confusing questions about my rear brake pads (2008 crf450r)

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ok, my rear brake pads make a short squek noise once every revolution of the rear wheel. The squek doesnt last long, only about half a second, but it happens every revolution of the wheel. Im am not sure if its making this noise when i ride cause i obviously cant here it, but i know it does when im pushing it around and stuff. I am not sure and cant find out wheather or not my break bads need changin. I bought the bike in November of 08 and have done about 45 hrs on it and have not changed the brake pads yet. The photos attached show you my break pads and their wear....which brings me to my second question. as you can see, and im sure it is all dirt bikes break systems not just mine, but how come there is only the one thing which pushes the break pad against the break rotor, you know, ( the gold round thing in the pics). it doesnt make sense becuase the side which it is on has worn the least and the side with nothing pushing it against the rotor has worn the most. can some one please answer both questions and explain what ever you can to my.

(also, how much do break pads cost, what sort do u recommend, and can i,15yr old with not muh mechanical experience, change them my self. thanks)

DSC_0262.jpg

DSC_0263-1.jpg

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THIS PICTURE BELOW IS EXACTLY WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT, THERE IS ONLY A PISTON ON ONE SIDE OF THE ROTOR/ ONE SIDE OF THE BREAK PADS. SO HOW THE HELL DOES IT WORK, AND IN MY PICS, HOW COME THE SIDE WITH OUT THE PISTON IS WORN MORE THAN THE ONE WITH IT??? CONFUSING, I KNOW!!

disc-brake3.jpg

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Your pads are way to worn out. You should have changed them already. Its normal for the one side to wear a little faster. I like to take off the wheel and loosen the bolt right above the circle you drew, that holds the pads. Its pretty easy to do. You will need to push the piston back in before you put the new pads on.

Have you ever even taken the wheel off before?

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Adem188,

I have to go to work so I'll be quick. I love the diagram! But it doesn't reflect the complete system: the caliper is a "floating" design. If you take your rear wheel off and remove the caliper, you should be able to pull the caliper apart; but yours appears to be 'siezed' meaning it's not moving; hence the brake pad wear on only one side. You need get your caliper moving on it's 'pins' and put some lube on them. Oh, and get new brake pads..........hope this helps MED

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+1.. it is likely your calliper pins are dry and not allowing the upper 1/2 to "float". The piston is pushing it to the right, but the dry slide pins are not allowing it to move back to the left. Thus, your left pad (that has the material totally worn away) is always dragging. Your diagram is for a car disk brake system, and doesn't show the floating design with the 2 pins. You will need a good sized allen wrench to take it apart. Make very sure you get the rubber boots put back properly (look closely at em before you pull em apart).

Get that thing apart and greased up.

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I had exactly the same thing happen with my rear OEM pads on my '07 at 20 or so hours. Everything was greased and free moving, and the several sets of EBC pads I've used since have worn evenly.

1241229388664.jpg

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Have you ever even taken the wheel off before?

yes i have taken the wheel off before but it was hard for some reason to get it back on, i think something called spacers kept falling and i needed 2 people to put it on. but yes i have taken it off before.

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Adem188,

After giving it a day of thought, although everything above is correct, I would bet that your right pad is not in the propper position in its slot. What I mean is the very front of the backing plate (part of the pad) is supposed to fit into the front of the caliper bracket where there is a thin Stainless Steel clip thingy. This is designed to handle the braking forces and not wear out because it protects the aluminum brake caliper bracket. Anyways, it's possible to get the front part of the pad jammed in there in such a way that the pad doesn't want to move side to side; hence the non-wear of the right side pad. Actually, your caliper IS sliding side to side properly because if it didn't the left pad wouldn't push on the disc. Hope this helps take it all apart, turn up the radio, and put it all back together properly and you should be ready to rip........

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I would bet money that you will need to replace the pin that holds your brake pads in as well. After 15 hours on my 08 it was allready grooved pretty bad. I think that EBC brake pads come with a new pin which is a plus. Plus they make decent pads that last a while.👍

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take it all apart, turn up the radio, and put it all back together properly and you should be ready to rip........

what if i take it apart myself one weekend and then i stuff up or dont know how to do it or put it back together. what if i take it to the dealer in the 1st place. so many of use have given a few different possibilities of what could be wrong, i wouldn't know what to tell them is wrong and they could charge we for doing things which worn't necessary. i don't think i could do it myself.

SOME ONE HELPPP!!!

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you can do it ,take it apart after you get new pads do you have the book?we will help you dont go to the dealer

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the torque is 13 ft lbs for the pin bolts if you dont have a torque wrench get one you will need one for your bike so you dont strip anything or be too loose you dont want anything to fall out when your riding

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how much do new brake pads cost roughly, good ones

should i get them from dealer, seems easiest option

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Decent pads, like EBC, or SBS will run you in US$29-US$39. I normally don't buy from the dealer, but rather from an internet retailer. I don't knom much about dirt bike parts in Australia though.

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I would grease the caliper pins and install new OEM or Renthal pads. The only time I've ever worn out one side prematurely was because of a binding caliper. With the exception of the new Renthal pads, the big name aftermarket pads I've used didn't modulate or wear as well as the OEM pads and the lack of insulators boiled the brake fluid. I drag the back brake a lot so the insulators are important.

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what kind of grease do you put on the caliper pins? seems like any grease you put on the pin would get on the pads... which sounds bad...

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what kind of grease do you put on the caliper pins? seems like any grease you put on the pin would get on the pads... which sounds bad...

Not the pin that goes through the holes in the pads, the two pins that the caliper halves slide open and closed on. They're sealed with rubber boots.

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all this talk is foreign to me as i have never done it before and not sure what parts and stuff use r talking about lol

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This is a super easy job. Here is a video on how to replace the pads. He doesn't pull the caliper halfs apart and grease the pins, which you should probably do, but it is very easy as well. http://www.youtube.com/user/RockyMountainATVMC#p/u/10/HfPqu3LMti8

hey mate, watched the you tube video u said and im lucky he is showing how to do it on a Honda cause that's what i have. Anyway, is it really that easy, just one bolt then take em off,(any brake bleeding involved).

and u said something about "He doesn't pull the caliper halfs apart and grease the pins, which you should probably do, but it is very easy as well." what is that and how much harder is it, and why do it?

thanks

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I had the same thing happen on my new 08. One pad wore out, the other almost new. The caliper moved freely side to side and the pad was not jammed on the vibration clip nor was the pin grooved. Took it apart 3 times trying to figure it out. Finally replaced the stock pads with new OEM - no more problem and even wear.

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