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Can you use harmonic balancer puller for ....

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Just got harmonic puller tool to try to use to split cases on my 125 as others have on here ...so question is can i use this to remove flywheel also...or do i need a flywheel puller🤣

sry no manual as of yet:banghead: .....ordered Monday:foul:

thanks again 👍

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Never mind people ...yes stupid question ....you cannot use as a flywheel puller ....sry bonk !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Quick suggestion, on ebay there are sets of flywheel pullers, about 10 of them in a case for $50 or so. It's a great investment.

So much so, I sold a single flywheel puller I had purchased earlier for more than I paid for it and the buyer even paid $3 shipping on top of what I paid total.

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You can get a flywheel puller sent to your door for around $15. Look for Dennis Stubblefield Sales. Even the Kawasaki special factory tool is only around $22, I think.

You may be able to use a steering wheel puller to split the cases. I once used one on a 1987 KDX200 engine with a variety of long bolts and washers. A rubber mallet is also needed to get the rear of the case halves to separate evenly.

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You can get a flywheel puller sent to your door for around $15. Look for Dennis Stubblefield Sales. Even the Kawasaki special factory tool is only around $22, I think.

You may be able to use a steering wheel puller to split the cases. I once used one on a 1987 KDX200 engine with a variety of long bolts and washers. A rubber mallet is also needed to get the rear of the case halves to separate evenly.

Thanks ...got the steering wheel puller today ... ordering the flywheel puller soon ....and i guess i'll need a crank installer also 👍....

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I just ordered the four tools recomended for getting into the case and replacing bearings without a press. All said and done $150.00. Not too bad I'd say.👍

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crank installer is a waste. with the bearings and seals in the cases heat the case halves and freeze the crank. It'll all slip together with ease. I used a steering wheel puller to split, and the hot/cold method to rebuild. Flywheel puller is a necessity though.

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crank installer is a waste. with the bearings and seals in the cases heat the case halves and freeze the crank. It'll all slip together with ease. I used a steering wheel puller to split, and the hot/cold method to rebuild. Flywheel puller is a necessity though.

iv never seen that done, i would love to at least watch a video of it being done, i just dont get it , my crank fits into case without needing heat so why use it? like

when i put crank up to casehalf sorta the way it looks like it would be installed and it looks like it will just fit,

like i dont see how it stays sturdy compared to pulling it in with a crank puller at least one side on my kx..

👍

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If your crank fits through the crank bearings without pressing, heating, or freezing any bits, then something has too much clearance!

I don't see how a vid would be necessary, the principle is simple. Heating the bearings increases the ID of the bearing very slightly. Freezing the crank reduces it's OD ever so slightly. The combination of the two is enough to allow the parts to slip together without additional force from a press, hammer, block of wood, or any other primitive method of persuasion.

My method for assembly:

Crank bearings have been in the freezer for quite a while

Heat the bare cases in the oven at about 200 degrees

The new seals and bearings will practically drop into the cases

Let every thing come back to room temp

Now the crank is in the freezer

cases with new bearings go back in the oven @ about 200 degrees

Now the crank will slip through the new bearings with no force necessary

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how long did you leave it in oven for? say u preheat 200.. light goes off ...

its at 200, how long u leave it in for?..

or if u just turn it on then put it in how long then?..

thanks for replying im gonna read over that a bunch of tmies so i get it lol...thanks for input man ...ima try to get this done tomorrow.. illbe around:bonk:

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If your crank fits through the crank bearings without pressing, heating, or freezing any bits, then something has too much clearance!

I don't see how a vid would be necessary, the principle is simple. Heating the bearings increases the ID of the bearing very slightly. Freezing the crank reduces it's OD ever so slightly. The combination of the two is enough to allow the parts to slip together without additional force from a press, hammer, block of wood, or any other primitive method of persuasion.

My method for assembly:

Crank bearings have been in the freezer for quite a while

Heat the bare cases in the oven at about 200 degrees

The new seals and bearings will practically drop into the cases

Let every thing come back to room temp

Now the crank is in the freezer

cases with new bearings go back in the oven @ about 200 degrees

Now the crank will slip through the new bearings with no force necessary

After u install the new seals/bearings in the hot cases (then let cool to room temp), does heating them again at 200 degrees not damage the new seals? how hot can they withstand?

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Your engine potentially can be well over 200 degrees, spit on the cases right after you get up a harsh screaming first gear climb some time.

Edited by Smacaroni

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Can any harmonic balance puller be used to split cases? Does the thrust bolt generally fit in the crankshaft end threads or are they all different?

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