Jump to content

DR650 No Spark


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I was riding my '05 DR650 yesterday, stopped, went to to start the bike and no go. Pulled the seat and tank off checked wire connections, looks good, checked for spark and no spark. The bike turns over fine but no spark. Any ideas?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

I had the same issue at about 4000 miles, went through all of the troubleshooting for the kickstand switch etc.. Turned out it was the pickup coil. You can run a continuity test on the wires going to it to see if it's burned out or not. Can't remember the specifics on the testing but you can find that in other threads. If it is the pickup coil though you can buy it at http://RegulatorRectifier.com for like $35.. Suzuki doesn't sell this part by itself. You would have to buy the whole stator unit $400+. Wasn't too hard to wire up if your ok with wiring etc.. Make sure to use heat shrink on the splice/wire for extra protection from the oil. Haven't had another problem with anything in over 10k miles..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can also be an ignition switch issue. Lights work, engine cranks but no spark.... there are three sets of contacts in the ignition switch that make with the key in the on position. Red ][ Orange Orange/yellow tracer ][ black/White tracer Gray ][ Brown If the center contacts don't make there will be no ground for the CDI. Everything else will work as normal.... This can happen if water gets in a corrodes a contact.... or some idiot sprays a non-dry lubricant in the ignition switch because it was sticking. Ask me how I know about the last scenario.... 🙂:banana:

Edited by mx_rob
Link to comment
Share on other sites

or some idiot sprays a non-dry lubricant in the ignition switch because it was sticking. Ask me how I know about the last scenario.... 🙂:banana:

🤣 Guess I shouldnt use WD40 again then. Didnt spray it, but put a drop on the key and worked it in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:banana: Guess I shouldnt use WD40 again then. Didnt spray it, but put a drop on the key and worked it in there.

Ive been using DeoxIT D5 to clean all electrical connections on many different types of electronics from automotive to my musical equipment (some very old and very expensive tube amplifiers) household stuff.... everything, for many years.

Ive never found anything that even comes close to DeoxIT for cleaning/maintaining electrical connections.

You can find it at Radio Shack for about $10 or so

41lvXdIkB4L._SL500_AA300_.jpg

🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I'm having a similar issue. Bike ran great and didn't miss a beat the last time I rode it. Go to try and start it the next day and it just cranks and cranks but does not start. I check the plugs and no spark but they're wet with gas. I ohmed out all the components and the pickup coil is ohming out at about 200k Ohms.

I think it is probably gone.

I also ohmed out the CDI and most of the connections are within spec but there are a few that were not so I'm a little concerned. I think I'll try the pickup coil first since it's cheaper.

I did have one question about the previous posts in this thread. Some were talking about the kickstand/clutch/kill switches being the issue, but I didn't think the bike would turn over if those switches were out. Is that not correct? I'd go check and verify myself but I already removed my switches and shorted their respective wires out so testing would involve unsoldering the wires and removing splices(and then redoing everything). Can anyone help me on this question?

FYI. The bike is a 2004 DR650SE with about 10,000 miles on it. I was hoping to get more out of her before I started having to mess with engine problems but I guess that is just how it goes sometimes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did have one question about the previous posts in this thread. Some were talking about the kickstand/clutch/kill switches being the issue but I didn't think the bike would turn over if those switches were out. Is that not correct?

That is correct... power for the starter push button comes through the kill switch on the orange w/white wire which also feeds the CDI. The starter relay is wired through the side stand relay. Yellow w/black wire. :smashpc:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like pickup coil to me, same exact thing happened to me. Turned it off one morning, never started again. I have several posts regarding this too. FYI some of the pickup coils colored wires are backwards. Keep this in mind if it doesn't start after you swap it. If this happens you can change the wires on the CDI rather than take it all apart again. Good luck, easy job to do, I never had another problem after this in 15k miles...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replaced the pick up coil. As others have stated, the wire colors on the coil from regulatorrectifier.com were incorrect. I reversed them and bike fired right up. I had a little piece of the old gasket gone and I have a little leak now. Time for a new gasket and I should be good to go!

I guess a $75 repair for almost 12,000 miles isn't bad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

Found my multi meter.

So on the pickup coil test in the manual, power source coil side (B-W) i get 54.9 on my ohm meter when the manual says I should expect 0.1 - 0.2.

On the pickup coil side (Bl - G), I get 10.01, and the manual says 170 - 256

Clearly I need help, or for someone to relieve me of my multi meter before I hurt somebody.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 years later...
On 7/6/2010 at 8:48 AM, mxrob said:

Can also be an ignition switch issue. Lights work, engine cranks but no spark.... there are three sets of contacts in the ignition switch that make with the key in the on position. Red ][ Orange Orange/yellow tracer ][ black/White tracer Gray ][ Brown If the center contacts don't make there will be no ground for the CDI. Everything else will work as normal.... This can happen if water gets in a corrodes a contact.... or some idiot sprays a non-dry lubricant in the ignition switch because it was sticking. Ask me how I know about the last scenario.... 🙂:banana:

Mxrob it seems I'm one of those idiots. Bike will only start 50% of the time. Runs fine when it does start. Can i disassemble the ignition barrel and clean/dry it or replace it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Driver080 said:

Mxrob it seems I'm one of those idiots. Bike will only start 50% of the time. Runs fine when it does start. Can i disassemble the ignition barrel and clean/dry it or replace it?

You need the tamperproof torx bits to remove the switch assembly from the frame. Caution, these screws are loctited so be sure to use an unworn perfect fitting tamper proof torx bit. (get a set cheaply at Harbor Freight) 

You can take the lower portion of the ignition switch off but it is not meant to be disassembled. Many riders have done so however to get right to the contacts. When I did my bonehead move I was not at home so not in my garage with my tools. I went and bought the HF torx bits to get the switch off the frame and some electrical contact cleaner. Shove the hose into the ignition switch and blasted away for a couple seconds then worked the switch through all of its positions then removed the key and inverted the switch to allow the black mess to drool out. I repeated this until the contact cleaner was clean coming out of the switch. Left it upside down for a number of minutes with a rag there to wick away any excess cleaner. Once the switch dried I re-lubed the tumbler section. I used some lubricant on the key and ran it in and out of the switch but in retrospect I could have used some lock lubricant spray that flashes off quickly instead. Just invert the switch and spray the lube up into the switch allowing the excess carrier to drip out. Once dry installhe the switch. Oh yeah, check continuity on the all of the contact pairs before putting the switch back in. It took about two rinse sessions before my CDI contacts started working again... I then rinsed it a few more times until the fluid was clear.

Obviously if you take it apart on a bench you could do a better job of cleaning the electrical portion out and making sure the contacts all look good but my method was done back in 2007 and I have not had a single issue with the switch since. Just sayin.... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 7/13/2020 at 10:04 PM, mxrob said:

You need the tamperproof torx bits to remove the switch assembly from the frame. Caution, these screws are loctited so be sure to use an unworn perfect fitting tamper proof torx bit. (get a set cheaply at Harbor Freight) 

You can take the lower portion of the ignition switch off but it is not meant to be disassembled. Many riders have done so however to get right to the contacts. When I did my bonehead move I was not at home so not in my garage with my tools. I went and bought the HF torx bits to get the switch off the frame and some electrical contact cleaner. Shove the hose into the ignition switch and blasted away for a couple seconds then worked the switch through all of its positions then removed the key and inverted the switch to allow the black mess to drool out. I repeated this until the contact cleaner was clean coming out of the switch. Left it upside down for a number of minutes with a rag there to wick away any excess cleaner. Once the switch dried I re-lubed the tumbler section. I used some lubricant on the key and ran it in and out of the switch but in retrospect I could have used some lock lubricant spray that flashes off quickly instead. Just invert the switch and spray the lube up into the switch allowing the excess carrier to drip out. Once dry installhe the switch. Oh yeah, check continuity on the all of the contact pairs before putting the switch back in. It took about two rinse sessions before my CDI contacts started working again... I then rinsed it a few more times until the fluid was clear.

Obviously if you take it apart on a bench you could do a better job of cleaning the electrical portion out and making sure the contacts all look good but my method was done back in 2007 and I have not had a single issue with the switch since. Just sayin.... 

So Mxrob i seem to have fixed it. I have a can of MAF sensor cleaner that i use for my ute. It's hexane based and dries almost instantly. I'm too err....lazy to remove the ignition so i just stuck the spray nozzle in there and emptied the can into the barrel. Black crud came out until eventually it came out clear. The bike now starts 9 times out of ten. If it doesn't you just turn the key off and back on again and it usually goes. I'm pretty happy with the results. I can now turn it off and not have to cross my fingers that it'll restart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Ă—
Ă—
  • Create New...