jreising326 Posted March 29, 2010 Hi Everyone, I made a bonehead error during a DIY revalve on my 46mm KYB forks. When I went to torque down the base valve I stripped the threads (I should have tested out my torque wrench on something else first). I am going to run a die over it and see if I can get the nut to grab, but am doubtful that will work. Does anyone have a better suggestion, perhaps I need to convert it over to something slightly smaller (5/16" maybe?) I feel like such a dork. 👍 Rgds, Joe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jreising326 Posted March 29, 2010 Well "Plan A" was unsuccessful, I guess it is time to thread it down to 7mm. 5/16" is just too close I think.... Any backyard mechanics want to weigh in on this one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csc616 Posted March 29, 2010 don't know if i can help you out on your dilemma but don't feel bad. I have been wrenching on bikes all my life and I have stripped bolts using a torque wrench. I have all mac torque wrenches from 1/4'' drive to 3/4'' and the get calibrated often. I don't use them on my bikes anymore. I go by feel. the bolts always seem to be softer than what you would expect. even if you use your torque table in your manual you can sometimes feel the bolt stretch before it torques up (clean and dry threads) don't know why but the do but they do. My crf450 the clutch basket bolt were the worse. good luck:thumbsup: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jreising326 Posted March 29, 2010 Yeah, I never really used a torque wrench, after a while you really do just "know". However, in the suspension area I'm like a fish out of water, so I figured it was best to follow the book, dang wish I trusted my own intuition. The last time this happened to me was 1982, on my first real dirt bike. I ham-fisted the head nut after doing my first rebuild, right at the end of the the job of course, and pulled the stud right out of the cylinder. Well I tried to tap it, but ended up putting a helicoil in. That tap is still in my toolbox, and almost 30 years later it still makes my stomach flop. Regardin this problem though, I tried to die it down to 7mm, but it won't start naturally, easily, so I guess I will need to go to 5/16's either way. I don't have that die, so I'm done for now. Hopefully someone will post up with something better than what I'm thinking of trying, or at least confirming what I'm thinking is the best option. Rgds, Joe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ccie2be Posted March 29, 2010 I have twisted off a couple of these so don't feel to bad. The metal is soft and well... it doesn't take much torque. -David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csc616 Posted March 29, 2010 I have been trying to think of the name but can't remember. i'm sure it will come to me at 4am but it is kinda like a reverse helicoil. I'm sure you kinda know what i mean. "goes over not in" have used them in before and they work fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mog Posted March 29, 2010 if you have enough meat just shave the stem down and go with a smaller nut, making sure it clamps down ok, the base has no major forces on it that a 7mm nut cant cope with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jreising326 Posted March 29, 2010 That's what I'm going to do. Do you know if I can use a nylon lock nut for this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Family Man Posted March 31, 2010 racetech sells a special nut for this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites