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is my dealer right or wrong

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i rung up a local dirt bike shop and asked the best way to take out the cam tensioner and reinstall it on my 01 yz 250f

they said just take out the 2 outside bolts and dont touch the middle one, right or wrong?

i thought you had to wind up the middle one with a screw driver when reinstalling, then torque the outside bolts to spec, then just back the middle screw off, how do you know how many turns to back it off?

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undoing the midlle one relises the ratchet in the tensioner, unless your installing a new cam chain theres no need to touch it, if your installing a new cam chain thne you need to let off the tension.

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By undoing (or letting go is more accurate) the middle screw, the rod will automatically push out and put the right amount of tension on the chain. And yes, you are correct in saying you must unwind the middle one in order to tighten the outer 2 bolts. (Than release and it will apply the right pressure on the chain automatically)

Some tensioners when retracted all the way will lock into place and some you must hold or else they spring back out.

UNLESS you have a manual cam chain tensioner for some reason, than disregard what i said.

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so, your saying that for a valve adjustment you dont need to touch the tensioner?, are you sure, the chain looks pretty tight on the cam sprockets.

so when doing a valve adjustment i dont need to touch the tensioner?

thanks for your help in advance

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If you said what you stated above (remove) they told you correctly. However......for reassembly you need to unwind the tensioner so there is zero pressure on the cam chain.....then release after the 2 bolts are tightened.

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so, your saying that for a valve adjustment you dont need to touch the tensioner?, are you sure, the chain looks pretty tight on the cam sprockets.

so when doing a valve adjustment i dont need to touch the tensioner?

thanks for your help in advance

If your pulling the cams to swap shims, then yes release the tension on on the chain. Removing the tensioner is the best way, but if you wind it up and can lock it in place that will work too. Your best bet though is to get out your service manual (or buy one if don't have one yet) and follow the valve adjustment procedure step by step to prevent costly or time consuming repairs due to incorrect cam timing and chain tension.

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the problem is in the valve adjustment procedure it doesnt say anything about the tensioner

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It does state how to remove and install in the manual although it is not in the valve adjustment procedure, its in 4-21 to remove and the bottom of 4-27 to install.

You do have a manual, correct?

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Here im feeling bored

Timing chain tensioner

1. Check:

• While pressing the tensioner rod lightly

with fingers, use a thin screwdriver 1

and wind the tensioner rod up fully clockwise.

• When releasing the screwdriver by pressing

lightly with fingers, make sure that the

tensioner rod will come out smoothly.

• If not, replace the tensioner assembly.

2. Install:

• Timing chain tensioner

Installation steps:

• While pressing the tensioner rod lightly

with fingers, use a thin screwdriver and

wind the tensioner rod up fully clockwise.

• With the rod fully wound and the chain tensioner

UP mark a facing upward, install

the gasket 1 and the chain tensioner 2,

and tighten the bolt 3 to the specified

torque.

Bolt (timing chain tensioner):

10 Nm (1.0 m • kg, 7.2 ft • lb)

• Release the screwdriver, check the tensioner

rod to come out and tighten the

gasket 4 and the cap bolt 5 to the specified

torque.

Tensioner cap bolt:

7 Nm (0.7 m • kg, 5.1 ft • lb)

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Let me try, I don't generally tighten the tensioner when removing, but it helps to remove the cap bolt (center) to give a little more clearance to remove the tensioner inner mounting bolt. You should alternate between the two so there won't be any binding. Upon reinstalling, the tensioner should be wound up and locked, just keep turning clockwise you'll feel it. Reinstall alternating from inner to outer mounting bolt. I made a short small blade screwdriver to release the tensioner to clear the carb, just start backing it out and you'll feel it release. Replace the cap bolt after snugging up the mounting bolts, snug up the cap bolt, and that part is done. Rotate your crank two times and if the cam marks and flywheel end up where they started you don't have to do it all over.

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